Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

[igs]

How Oil Refining Works

http://science.howstuffworks.com/oil-refining.htm


Keaka26 I hope this finally answers whatever questions you have.

 

[Keaka26]

powerboarder, I have detailed instructions on the replacement/cleaning of lifters, pm me for that info.

Igs: If you dont believe me, why dont you believe the COUNTLESS other people who are disgusted with the waxxy fily that those 2 shitty ass oils leave all around your engine? Why arent the top oils parafin oils if its so great? If its so great, why is quaker state oil so cheap? I dont care if its cheap to make, if something is good, then it WILL cost more than something that sucks. Thats just the way the industry works. You dont see mobil one with wax, or royal purple, or amsoil do you?

I dont buy the BS on quakerstates website, and yes, i had seen that prior to you citing it.

 

[Raph]

Mobil 1 0w 40 for German Driving and Autobahn conditions

Öl change Twice a year.

Almost no need to fill between oil changes

Drawback ----> Mobil 1 is EXPENSIVE

´Tip---> Get a few freinds to get together and buy a 60liter Barrel,and share the öl over the period of 2 years

 

[out there]

how much is other synthetic over there?

 

[Powerboarder]

I found lifters at http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g1cat/engine.htm , that will (quote)
"Replace those noisy lifters with a set of the large bore, factory new lifters. I know I hated starting my car around everyone and hearing that tap-tap-tap, especially on those cold days. Requires a set of 16 for a complete, quiet installation." $14 each

Of course purchase from the correct catalog w/ u're DSM year.
As soon as the new lifters get in I'll post on how smooth they sound vs the tapping... I hope.
And thanx every1 for your info. I hope this will help some of you out there too.

 

[Satori]

Originally posted by Powerboarder


How do you get to your lifters? Is it easy/hard? Would you have intructions and/or pics as of how to do it?

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/lifters.html has the info you are looking for.

BTW, why are all you guys running such high oil viscosities?

Another Q, to users of Amsoil. Do you guys really *use* that oil to its full potential or do you change your oil per the recommended schedule?

Seeing as how contaminants will get into the oil no matter how good the oil is, and the fact that filters can not filter out every impurity, I just don't see the point of wasting money on that stuff. It's still a good idea to replace your oil and filter per schedule due to the fact that it's dirty. Who cares if the oil won't break down for 5,000 miles, or 200,000 miles for that matter if it is still becoming contaminated.

 

[Satori]

Originally posted by laserRSawd
What do you guys recommend me to use after a rebuild? Should I break it in with regular oil and then switch to synthetic? If so how long should I run regular oil in it?

That's a myth that many manufactures have overcome. Someone else mentioned that the Corvette C5 comes from the factory with Mobil 1 in the engine. The LS1, LT-1 and LT-5 engines did too. All Porsche cars manufactured at the Zuffenhausen plant are filled up with Mobil 1 from the factory. I've heard BMW does this as well but I'm not positive on that fact.

Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this sort of "conventional oil break-in period." As the decisions by the engineers who design the Corvette and Porsche engines indicate, synthetics can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the show room floor.

PS - please don't fill your engine up with the high viscosities many seem to recommend here unless you are trying to avoid a known leak. Even then, use it only until you fix the problem. For maximum wear protection and maximum fuel economy, use the lightest oil viscosity that is recommended by the engine manufacturer for the temperature range expected. Heavier oils can lower fuel economy and rob horsepower. For normal driving conditions, 5w-30 and 10w-30 are the primary current recommendations of automotive manufacturers.

 

[Satori]

Originally posted by Raph
Mobil 1 0w 40 for German Driving and Autobahn conditions

Maybe it's not the same for the Mobil 1 product but I was under the impression that 0 weight oils were only for flushing an engine.

Even if this is not the case I still would consider it to be a bad idea due to the fact that the wider the viscosity range the quicker the oil will break down (i.e. 10w50 would break down quicker than 10w30).

 

[Keaka26]

I use amsoil 0w-30 series 2000. They do not make that line of oil in 10w30 because the 0w30 meets all specifications for a 10w30 so theres no reason. I change my oil at 4000 miles with this oil, where as i used to change my old dino oil at about 2000.... Amsoil actually WARRANTIES their oil for like 35000 miles in an --->NA<----...They only warranty oil for 3x manufacturer specs with a turbo car. If the oil causes any damage before that mileage that is not related to any kind of additive that you put in there, they will pay to fix whatever broke...The oil actually comes with a warranty card.

As for a wide range in a multigrade oil, i believe the breakdown is
supposed to only be a problem with dino oils and synthetics seem to
not have this problem.

 

[igs]

According to the owner's manual, if the outside temperature doesn't fall below 32F you should use 20W40. Make sure you guys are using the right motor oil! Oil is very important for turbos. Of course never run what the manufacturer doesn't recommend. But most recommend 5W-xx for best mileage and 10W-xx or 20W-xx for warmer weather. 0W-xx is a no-no.

 

[Raph]

i live in germany,and the manufacturer recomends 5w-.xx 10w-xx or 0w-xx

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by Satori


That's a myth that many manufactures have overcome. Someone else mentioned that the Corvette C5 comes from the factory with Mobil 1 in the engine. The LS1, LT-1 and LT-5 engines did too. All Porsche cars manufactured at the Zuffenhausen plant are filled up with Mobil 1 from the factory. I've heard BMW does this as well but I'm not positive on that fact.

Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this sort of "conventional oil break-in period." As the decisions by the engineers who design the Corvette and Porsche engines indicate, synthetics can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the show room floor.

PS - please don't fill your engine up with the high viscosities many seem to recommend here unless you are trying to avoid a known leak. Even then, use it only until you fix the problem. For maximum wear protection and maximum fuel economy, use the lightest oil viscosity that is recommended by the engine manufacturer for the temperature range expected. Heavier oils can lower fuel economy and rob horsepower. For normal driving conditions, 5w-30 and 10w-30 are the primary current recommendations of automotive manufacturers.

Exactly... and to add to your list, the Dodge Viper, Lancer EVO, Mercedes-Benz AMG, Aston Martin, and the new Cadillac XLR all come from the factory with Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil in them.

 

[deusxmachina]

I can understand using synthetic if it's for a race motor or is used under otherwise-extreme conditions, but for most people all this expensive stuff is overkill. I use 10w30 regular Mobil and it works fine. I've had turbo cars with 195k miles on factory internals and turbos still going fine. Change the oil when it gets dirty, usually every 4-5k, and put the money saved into your "buy a 50-trim" fund.

If you add up the extra cost of synthetic at every oil change, especially if you change the oil at 3k, figure out how much that costs over x amount of time and miles. The money saved can pay for at least half a rebuild, not that there's a whole lot of evidence showing synth makes a typical car last longer anyway. Cars with individual problems such as annoying lifter tick that a certain brand or weight fixes, that's different.

I would bet a lot of people use synthetic simply because it makes them feel better, not because it helps the car much if any. It's the same with transmission fluid. All the various synthetics and $10 a quart brands people recommend, and then they turn out to protect less or even not shift any better than plain 'ol non-synth.

 

[Raph]

i use Mobil 1 only because i have a buddy that gets it at "Factory price"

 

[SPEEDY]

I have seen proven dyno charts of 3 to 4whp gains by just merely going to a fully synthetic motor oil and synthetic transmission fluids. I know that's not a huge gain but every little bit helps, plus the added protection over regular dino oil. Hell... I change my oil every 2000 to 2500 miles. That's probably a little overkill but I only drive my car on the weekends, so it takes a while for me to rack up 2000 to 2500 miles. I have had my car for about 5 years now and only put 17,000 miles on her in that amount of time. I have changed my oil a total of 6 times since I have owned the car.

 

[Satori]

Originally posted by deusxmachina
I can understand using synthetic if it's for a race motor or is used under otherwise-extreme conditions, but for most people all this expensive stuff is overkill.
[snip]

Far as I'm concerned any turbocharged engine is under extreme conditions, especially so for most of the people on this board because we are pushing our engines and turbos to the limits of both power and reliability.

Synthetic has a better shear capability, better cling, and increased resistance to thermal breakdown. Synthetics also have a much lower pour point, much less viscosity change over time, and flat-out better lubricity. That lower pour point is particularly good--it means that oil gets where it needs to be much more rapidly after a cold start, especially in very cold weather. But most important to me is that synthetic is much less prone to coking, and less prone to varnish than conventional oil.

Here is something interesting: http://www.csaa.com/global/faqdetail/0,8054,1004010401%7C220,00.html

AAA also seems to consider turbocharged engines to be "subject to extreme conditions."

Now I'm not trying to change your mind; that would no doubt be nearly impossible based on your experience. I'd just like to state that your experience is unlikely to be shared by more than half the people who push their turbos. You've been quite fortunate! But for me that little bit of extra protection is worth the little bit of added expense.

Have fun.

 

[deusxmachina]

It's not my wallet paying for people's synthetic, so they can use it if they want. But, you know what I mean, it's like the clutch page on RRE's site -- "Everyone thinks they have a race car. We don't think you do."

I'm more concerned about people using the various super-duper transmission fluids. BG turned out to break down, Redline MTL kills bearings, etc. Even Buschur said he broke less tranny parts when he switched back to plain 'ol cheap-ass Valvoline non-synth. Even if that stuff isn't better than whatever $10 a quart brand, it's certainly not any worse.

 

[Keaka26]

The Amsoil turbo formula can be purchased from the same place that other Amsoils can be purchased. I sell Amsoil to save myself and my friends money on good oil. I usually sell at cost or just above it. E-mail me if you want some info.

 

[Raph]

Originally posted by Satori


Maybe it's not the same for the Mobil 1 product but I was under the impression that 0 weight oils were only for flushing an engine.

Even if this is not the case I still would consider it to be a bad idea due to the fact that the wider the viscosity range the quicker the oil will break down (i.e. 10w50 would break down quicker than 10w30).

Eurospec cars always have large sumps/different sumps to prevent Oil Starvation and Viscosity break down...it is a FACT that when some poeple Buy a US Version of a car and run it at Full Throttle down the Autobahn,theres a Risk of a busted engine..this happens to alot of those US SUVs...

Eurocars must be and are safe to run at Full Throttle(i do this alot -hell even the Diesel Drivers-they r notoriuos for top speed runs-do it all the time)

i have never heard of Viscosity breakdown happening to anyone-and i'm a mechanic...(yes we have busted engines too,but thats because of some peoples own stupidity-in the las´t 2 weeks weve had 6 cases of Busted motors- 4 off them because of too little oil in the engines/2 because of timing belts.
" didnt u see thst Yellow light,it means u must check ur oil level-oh? i thought u had to check it when that red light comes on.."

or "did that red oil light go on?"-yes it did,it was on since yesteday morning..."

or "how long has that belt been on there, the manufacturer says a change is necessary after 4 years or 90000KM(50000miles) "-but the car is only 2 years old"-but u already have 122000 km !"-"but i thougt i could wait till the 4 years is up"....

 

[Dieselboy]

Id highly advise NOT using any Pennzoil products. That was a big mistake. When I first got my new 6 bolt swap, I used conventional Pennzoil with a Pennzoil filter for break in. The oil got dirty VERY fast. In fact, after my break in period, I did another oil change. Oil was clear the first day, after my first boost, it was pitch black. Bottom line, Pennzoil sux for DSM's. I am now using Castrol Synthetic Blend with a Champion filter and my oil stays completely clear for at least 2K miles. I also experience alot less lifter tick and a smother running engine. I plan on upgrading to Full Castrol Synthetic next change.

 

[Jason84]

well changing the oil in my new (used) 90 TSI AWD. whats the best type of oil to run and what weight. also whats the best oil filters ? or is a filter a filter?

car only has 117k on it. he just went through it all and put in new pistons and stuff. so hopefully itll last till little after winter

 

[1_fst_rs]

i use mobil 1 full synthetic

 

[rivet0r]

Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic.
OEM Oil Filter.

 

[Defiant]

Wal*Mart's house brand, and whatever filter's on sale. With that mileage, it's not making anything to filter out anyhow.

 

[13secGST]

Best filter is OEM...stock...they have this other valve thing in it that aftermarkets dont...

For oil the BEST are Amsoil and Redline but they are a little more expenisve.

I use Mobil one...its works and its ok. 10-30w is fine 20-50w is fine...not that big of a deal want a little more protection go with the thicker stuff.