Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

[PlanZero]

I am convinced rotella T6 destroyed my stock motor. The car ran flawlessly at 140k miles, and after starting to use T6 I spun a rod bearing after a month. It did stop my lifter tick though. Probably just a coincidence, but on that car I either run mobil1 or royal purple 10-30 now all year long. Only reason royal purple is a few months back Walmart had a bunch of jugs on the clearance shelf for $20 so I grabbed a few. Otherwise it's nothing special except looks cool when new.

 

[ThunderChild]

I wouldn't personally run the oil, does that mean it's not good? Absolutely not. We all use our cars differently. Use what works for you.....I just love the vr1 oil. Why do you change the oil in the winter?

Gotcha, wasn't sure if it was just personal preference, or you had some info i didnt haha.

I use it cuz the price is good for a full synth, and it keeps me in a happy oil pressure spectrum during colder months. I don't actually change the oil right at winter/summer, it's just when my oil changes tend to fall. For instance, I just changed my oil 2 days ago, from t6 to vr1 cuz it was time and the temps are staying 50+ around here, and my hot oil pressure was dipping lower than I like. So, vr1 in, hot oil temps back to comfortable level.
During winter the temps are very low here and a heavy oil like 20w50 would be murder, heck the 5w40 is at my upper limit of comfort. Neither of them even pour well unless heated to over 50-60*.

I actually use a Bottle of amsoil zddp additive every change too, just for extra coverage.

 

[motomattx]

I actually run 20w-50 year round and always have, our winters hit -20 and less during the winter, have never noticed ant starting problems with any of the cars and have two cars pushing 300k miles and my old gsx hit 300k before I parted it out. VR1 is very good oil though, I agree.

 

[donniekak]

Try starting a higher compression engine with stiff valvesprings, big injectors, e85 a small battery, and frozen honey for oil because it's 10* outside.

A stockish car will start anytime with any oil. But, if you take off down the road right after a cold start with 20w-50 you make break the pump or filter.

 

[motomattx]

Well for the record I havent ever warmed up any of my daily driven cars beyond 20 seconds or so that it takes me to get ready to back out. My "race" car I do start up a few times over the winter with 20w-50 VR1 and it has 288 cams and corresponding springs, E-85 etc and of course I dont attempt to take it anywhere but it does fire up as it always does.

 

[donniekak]

I jump in a race car and drive it to work everyday. It's important for me to have it setup for the weather I'm in. In Phoenix I ran 20w-50 year round.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I jump in a race car and drive it to work everyday. It's important for me to have it setup for the weather I'm in. In Phoenix I ran 20w-50 year round.

I ran 20w50 in canada with -20* didn't have any problems. Was hard to start with small battery though. But let it warm up for 5-7 mins and off i go, in heind sight, i probably would habe looked at like a 15w40 for temps that cold. Had about two years of that with racing in the summers and no issues. Maybe i got lucky though

 

[Dsmkauai]

Been running vr1 20w50 in my eclipse and gvr4. I've been running it in my eclipse for 17-18 years and never had one oiling issue. The car had lots of race time on it and was at 240k when the balance shaft belt took out the motor. When i disassembled the engine I was shocked how great the bearings looked. Even inside the engine was very clean for the mileage on it. Vr1 ftw!

 

[White flour1gawd]

I run vr1 in my 2.4 with an fp turbo

 

[ceedawg]

Two oils I will use are Amsoil 20w50 or Valvoline 20w50 vr1

 

[EGLTAWLN]

Royal Purple 20w50 all year. The oil pump definately makes some noise when driving immediately off a cold start. No boosting till oil pressures stabilize once the coolant warms up.

 

[drmoreno_1]

I use vr1 but 10w-30.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

FWIW i spoke to some oil guys at an auto event and they said that it protects better if its kept in there ler then normal, so where as some teams change oil every race! Thy was told wear is alot less when theybuse that same oil 3 maybe 4 times

 

[Talon96fwd]

I have always used Royal Purple 10W30 no issues....

 

[Vegas Smith]

Been running vr1 20w50 in my eclipse and gvr4. I've been running it in my eclipse for 17-18 years and never had one oiling issue. The car had lots of race time on it and was at 240k when the balance shaft belt took out the motor. When i disassembled the engine I was shocked how great the bearings looked. Even inside the engine was very clean for the mileage on it. Vr1 ftw!

Sorry, 18 years is not a big enough sample size for me. Haha, it is clear, though, that there are lots of different oils that will work fine for us.

 

[PlanZero]

I just realized I've had the same royal purple in my car for 15 months (but only around 4k). Still looks good. Of course, the 10-30 royal purple they sell at Walmart isn't their race oil, so it's really no different from any other full synthetic, just more expensive. If this is what the OP is referring to, just go vr1 or Mobil 1, as I'm pretty sure they have higher zddp levels than regular RP

 

[livedsm4g63]

Be a man and run Brad Penn. Cheaper and much better oil. Many people rate it just under ams oil.

But as Vegas stated, many oils will work. I ran supertech oil (walmart) when i was in college because I was poor. Just make sure to change it every 3k miles and youll be fine.

 

[Silent_White]

Use any of the oils highlighted in yellow.

https://www.forcedperformance.net/m...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

 

[GST with PSI]

Rotella T6 here.

I've seen multiple oil analysis tests done by various people on a variety of motors. The results were always positively surprising. Works awesome for the cost, too.

 

[19gsx91]

Rotella T6 here.

I've seen multiple oil analysis tests done by various people on a variety of motors. The results were always positively surprising. Works awesome for the cost, too.

Subaru guys swear by it, that's for sure. I run brad Penn in the GSX, rotella t6 in my FXT. If I couldn't run brad penn next would be AMsoil, then T6. but that's only because my best friend is an amsoil dealer and I can get it for half off.

weight.. 10w 40. for spring.

 

[Keegan Johnson]

I run Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w40. Its second cheapest to T6 and has a healthy add pack. I dont buy Shell because I dont care for the conpany but i find it impossible to believe T6 killed anyones engine. 1) it has shown many good uoas, and 2) shell makes base stocks (the actual oil part you know) for everybody, ExxonMobil as well. It depends who outbids who when.

All modern oils are good if used correctly, from what ive seen as a mechanic. Even conventional can easily surpass 3k oil changes without sludging. Just meeting the minimum specs takes a quality oil nowdays. Unless its some sketchy no name stuff from under a rock with an old SF rating or something.

Most of us go overkill on oil just for good measure. And for a good reason all things considering. But any synthetic nowdays is excellent oil. Even the straight group3 stuff.

Also i think 5w40 is best for these engines unless you are at extreme levels of boost and seeing massive fuel dilution, in which case you should run straight 50 and pour it in preheated right before the race...
Anyways, these are a modern engine design. The roller top end and its many moving parts and small passegeways like an oil that stays thinner at lower temperatures (yes, 100° summer day is cold too compared to 190° the oil is still at least twice as thick) for fast startup flow. 5w40 does that, provides 40w protection when hot, and thanks to modern quality basestocks, can easily go thousands of miles without shearing.

Way to many guys on here running 10w40 and 15w40 in mild street cars based off of very dated opinions on oil from what threads i have read. If you run a 10w30 its not as bad, as it is close to 5w40 in actual viscosity at most ambient temps above freezing, and not a fuel saving oil like 5w30 but myself the 40 makes me wince less when i rev the piss out of it, which i love doing.

 

[coloradotuner]

Those of you in the states that actually have a winter you may reconsider running 20w-XX earl in the winter months, like Donnie mentioned.


Since oil opinions are like belly buttons () I use Rotella T5 10w30 year round here in Phoenix and a WIX filter.

I Run Rotella T5 10W30 as well. The PO who sold the car told me to go with T5.

My engine builder told me to consider Amsoil instead. Is T5 still a good oil for a Daily with light mods. is anyone else running this oil??

 

[spoolinpos]

I'll be moing to Vr1 20-50 from T5. Reason is that I'm switching engine. I had no issues with 10w30 T5 while running it with my current engine.

Also I will have some synthetic Valvoline Vr1 10w30 for sale if anyone is interested. I think I have like 6 or 7 unopened quarts.

 

[coloradotuner]

Is Amsoil overkill for stockish car running stock boost?? looking for opinions, not answers... haha