The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I run Shaeffer oil supreme 7000 in my car (90 tsi) 10w30 it has never given me problems with anything. They make really good oil and have some unique additives, check out there site at
www.schaefferoil.com/
We also use a different weight shaeffer's for a high HP Evo and it holds up really well, only downside is not many places sell it locally where I'm from so you have to order it online.
 
I moved back from Rotella T 15W-40 to 10W-30. 2psi less at idle (18psi @ ~900rpm). Still too much at speed.. 60psi at ~2000rpm. OFH needs work this summer. Again.
However, I don't think I'll ever move away from Rotella.
 
ok so i used to have a 99 gst with 200k miles. i used to run 20w50 valvoline vr1 oil with the high zinc for added engine protection. it used to burn some oil with 10w30 so i used the 20w50 cause ive read that a lot of people use this weight in their dsms and haven't had any ill effect. now i picked up a 96 gsx with 122k miles, being that the engine has less miles should i still use the 20w50vr1 oil, or should i use 10w30 royal purple? my car is all stock no engine mods whatsoever.
 
the book says 20w40 in temps above 32f. now during the summer here in new mexico it doesn't get that cold. 20w50 is only a litle bit more thick when its warm plus you get all that good zinc which is a anti wear additive right?
 
I'll take VR1 over most oils everyday. I think the only oils that I'd cobsider superior are Redline, JoeGibbs Racing and maybe Amsoil. High ZDDP content keeps metal to metal contact parts happy.
 
High ZDDP content keeps metal to metal contact parts happy.[/QUOTE]

Just another way to get more $$ from the consumer imp. Just like the 10k oil LOL!

So does proper lubrication. I don't believe all the hype on motor oil. Change it often enough and it shouldn't matter that much. I've seen many failures in all types of cars dailys and purpose built race cars due to improper lubrication and or lack of a strict maintenance schedule not because a certain brand of motor oil was used.
 
i change my oil and filter every 2000 miles, and i dont race my car, just the occasional spirited driving. should i just get some synthetic 10w30 and change it every 2000 miles
 
i change my oil and filter every 2000 miles, and i dont race my car, just the occasional spirited driving. should i just get some synthetic 10w30 and change it every 2000 miles

That's TOTALLY up to YOU. If it were me I would do as you stated with 10w30 syn and change on a frequent schedule(whatever you decide) and is cost-effective. But, that's me. There is no point in spending any more money than you have too, to get the same results.
 
Motor oil is up there with abortion, religion and republican or democrat...one of the few things that guys will actually go to fists over. Use what you like, thicker oil provides better hot engine protection and higher oil pressure, thinner does the opposite, some guys have to run certain viscosity due to their local temps thats all.
 
ok im gonna get some 10w30 vr1 oil and change it every 2000 miles, thanks for the imput
Damn, every 2,000 miles of DD use? Am I Crazy but I definitely don't change my oil that frequently.... I use Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 5W30 and change it every +/-7K... I also add a little bit of lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer and engine oil stop leak just to be safe since its got 69k miles and I highly doubt the previous owners changed any seals/gaskets... the only gaskets I've replaced are the cam shaft seals, valve cover, and ones you do when changing the balancing and timing belts...
 
Best motor oil I've ever ran vr1 20w 50, do yourself all a favor and run that oil...... you have to change it more frequently but it's amazing oil....ran it in all my Honda, Subarus and now mitsubishis
 
I get people running a thicker weight for race cars or built engines, but 20w50 on a oem motor for dd is just not needed. You are increasing oil pressure, reducing mpg, and it will also take longer to warm up and cool down. I'd also recommend changing it less often. Even the cheap store brand oil will be fine after 3000 miles. Don't poor your money down the leaking oil can.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top