Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by 13secGST
Best filter is OEM...stock...they have this other valve thing in it that aftermarkets dont...

For oil the BEST are Amsoil and Redline but they are a little more expenisve.

I use Mobil one...its works and its ok. 10-30w is fine 20-50w is fine...not that big of a deal want a little more protection go with the thicker stuff.

The valve you are referring to is just called a check valve.

 

[Twisted_93TSi]

I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20w-50... What's your guys opinion on that...?

 

[l0gan]

If when you switch to synthetic it leaks a bit dont worry im pretty sure thast will go away, its normal for it to leak a bit then it goes back to normal, thats what ive heard anyways.

 

[out there]

i thought this particular bit of info was tackled earlier (don't want to look back over that many pages...). anyway... organic oil clumps up and forms deposits over time in places where small holes are, or places where the oil gets very hot (ie turbo). when you put synthetic in, it causes these deposits to break apart and in some places this can cause the oil to leak. hence, the leak will not go away, it was there before the synthetic went in, and it will continue to leak after the switch.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

10w-30 mobil one.

 

[onepimpclipse]

10w 30 Castrol GTX with a K&N Gold oil filter.

 

[igs]

Originally posted by Keaka26
Im not trying to start crap with everyone here, but quaker state is a parafin oil. Meaning it actually has WAX in it. Over time a waxy buildup will form in various places throughout your engine....

Kevlar is an aromatic fiber. Does that mean kevlar actually has PERFUME in it? You might not be trying to start crap, but you sure are full of crap.

 

[Keaka26]

now, just because you are cheap and use pennzoil/quaker state, doesnt mean you have to get butt-hurt because it sucks.

from their website:

Quaker State® removes the maximum amount of wax possible during the refining process.

holy sh!t, does that mean that paraffinic oil has wax in it? YES it does. They state that they remove the maximum amount, that doesnt mean they can remove it all. Quaker state uses paraffinic oils because of it's low cost. Why do you think all quick-lube shops use pennzoil/quaker state? because its freaking cheap, just like you.

Ok, now I'm getting to the point where I dont CARE whethor or not it has wax in it. The oil SUCKS. A good synthetic will outperform shitty dino oil all day long. End. OF. Story.

 

[Keaka26]

Look at these #'s, why is the Pennzoil/Quaker state the weakest performer? because it is garbage.

Royal Purple (10w-30)

Viscosity Index – 141

Viscosity @ 40 Degrees Celsius – 70.3

Flash Point (Fahrenheit) – 455

Pour Point (Fahrenheit) – -49

Max Oil Life – ~12,000

Price – $5.25/Qt. For normal, $9.25/Qt. For Racing

Mobil 1 W/ SuperSyn (0w-30)

Viscosity Index – 185

Viscosity @ 40 Degrees Celsius – 40

Flash Point (Fahrenheit) – 450

Pour Point (Fahrenheit) - 65

Max Oil Life - ~10,000

Price – $4.29/Qt.

Redline (10w-30)

Viscosity Index – 136

Viscosity @ 40 Degrees Celsius – 64

Flash Point (Fahrenheit) – 518

Pour Point (Fahrenheit) - 58

Max Oil Life – 10,000 – 18,000

Price – $7.75/Qt

Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil (Non-Synthetic 10w-30)

Viscosity Index – 150

Viscosity @ 40 Degrees Celsius – 74

Flash Point (Fahrenheit) – 415

Pour Point (Celsius) - -33

Max Oil Life – 3,000 – 5,000

Price – $3.50

Pennzoil (Non-Synthetic 10w-30)

Viscosity Index – 105

Viscosity @ 40 Degrees Celsius – 98

Flash Point (Fahrenheit) – 450

Pour Point (Fahrenheit) - -22

Max Oil Life – 3,000 – 5,000

Price – $1.75

Amsoil Series 2000 (0w-30)

Viscosity Index – 188

Viscosity @ 40 Degrees Celsius – 57.9

Flash Point (Fahrenheit) – 460

Pour Point (Fahrenheit) - -76

Max Oil Life – 35,000 or One Year

Price – $8.35/Qt.

These are the important categories:

Viscosity Index – A higher number shows less change at higher temperatures, very important, especially in turbo cars.

Viscosity – Lower numbers are better here because they will show which flows better.

Flash Point – VERY important, this number indicates the temperature at which the oil is ruined. Again, very important in a turbocharged vehicle.

Pour Point – Shows the lowest temperature that the oil can still be poured in.

If you noticed, Pennzoil was the worst of all the sampled oils, including the non-synthetic valvoline oil....Wow, big surprise.

 

[TSi999]

Originally posted by clayhenry
5w30?
10w40?
etc..??
which one works good and whats the diff? thanx

use Castrol Syntec.

That is what LotuSport , the Lotus factory racing team that I was on in their championship 92 year, used but a racing version.

Man those were dream cars, mid engine Lotus Esprit X180R's with 4 cylinder "chargecooled" Turbo and around 400hp in the race cars...

 

[Skaterguy18]

Any import over 100 grand should be run with 20-50... once you switch, it'll feel like a new car! well.. of course I live in Texas where i don't have to worry about cold weather... Northerners might not want to go that thick. Anyway... if you are leaking oil... I recommend Lucas Oil Stabalizer, that shit works wonders. I used to smoke, the Lucas sealed me right up.

 

[Skaterguy18]

The lucas oil can be found at most parts houses... I work at Autozone and we sell it there. I'm not that big of a fan of synthetic but the Lucas does say it will work with all oils. Just double check the back of the bottle. I have work today so i'll check some stuff out.

 

[Keaka26]

ive owned (still own 1) 2 turbo lasers, and both run/ran full synthetic, 0w-30 oils. Both have well over 100k miles on them, with no oil leaks due to synthetic. Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. The reason it is recommended to be careful when switching to synthetic is because synthetic has cleaning properties that dino does not have. So if you have a lot of carbon buildup on your worn out seals, then the synthetic, over time, will remove those deposits, causing a leak.

 

[ivanr4g63]

Originally posted by Keaka26
Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. The reason it is recommended to be careful when switching to synthetic is because synthetic has cleaning properties that dino does not have. So if you have a lot of carbon buildup on your worn out seals, then the synthetic, over time, will remove those deposits, causing a leak.

I have to agree... Synthetic won't kill you high mileage engine... and it does help on protecting with friction on metals, internals that is..., just have in mind that a high mileage engine requires more careful maintenance than a newer engine, and if you run high boost on a older engine, eventually will broke, and not because of the oil you use, but the power you're making versus its age...

 

[carnerd]

I personaly use valvoline 30-40 race oil in my automatic.... makes it shift like a stick, never wants to go in overdrive either

 

[clownface]

i use mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 and it seems to work just fine

 

[BUCK]

Mobil 1 20W-50 in Summer (gets hot down here) 10w-30 in Winter - change every 6 months - I would add Valvoline Dino oil if & when it uses any oil.

 

[kyleporambo]

I would go with the oil that they put in the ferrari enzo, but it is 60 bucks a quart. So the average oil change would roughly cost 300 dollars.

 

[Dieselboy]

For gods sake, is this damn thread ever gonna die?

 

[BUCK]

Originally posted by Dieselboy
For gods sake, is this damn thread ever gonna die?

It dies just about time the Oil Filter Thread comes back from the dead...

 

[out there]

if only the boost fluid thread hadn't been locked, then we could add that into the cycle. i think it will die when someone proposes an idea about two turbos on the 4g63

 

[slvrstingray]

First of all i wanted to say waaazzzuuupp from California!!! i'm a newbie to this message board but definetly not a newbie to dsm's!!! I've been working on/ tweaking/ fixing/ "drag/street/road/auto-x" racing these cars for the last 7 years. I have personally owned 10 various makes and models of these cars, and have worked on countless numbers since i began working on them.

Talking from experience "if" you live in climate where you never drop below 30 degrees, you should run 10-30/40wt oil if you're driving a mildly modified car, and you don't drive like a bat out of hell.

For the people with highly modded cars, where you are always pushing your car to the extreme, i suggest running some kind of heavier weight synthetic. I would say, run 20-50wt in the car to keep your oil pressure up an to ensure proper oil delivery throughout your engine. The reason is, that the heat your engine produces will thin the oil - that is a fact. To compensate the the thinning of the oil, run a thicker oil, and when running at the extreme temperatures for prolonged periods of time, the thicker oil's viscosity will be thinner. If you start with thin oil, then it will be too "thin."

I say the above from personal experience, with the cars that i have owned and worked on and raced. I'm not saying that i'm an expert also... just putting in my two sense to the thread.

In my personal car, i was able to break down organic oil within 400-600 miles, due to the extreme temperatures that my engine produced. The oil was real black and the viscosity was like water! As for sythetics, i found that after 3000 miles, the Valvoline full-synthetic blend, lasts longer than the Mobile 1. For some reason, i don't know why, the valvoline always comes out cleaner and at a better viscosity.

That is all "Ray"

 

[theTuner]

I use mobil 1 10W-30 with a 1g oem big oil filter.

There are so many various opinions here i dont know what oil to get anymore ....I think stay away from the really cheap stuff and your good to go...plain and simple

 

[Mitsu725]

what kind of oil should i use on a 2g turbo, im gonna upgrade in about 2 weeks to a evo III to so should i run different thatn im running stock, as of now im using mobil one 10-30

 

[clownface]

mobil one 10w-30 if fine.....full synthectic of course
in fact its one of the better oils and theres alot of people on here that use it including me, redline and royal purple seem popular also.