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Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

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i have 91 laser turbo has 130000 i use 20/50 castrol syn
br i have started to get a lifter tick heard you are to run a thiner oil for a turbo anybody no
 
Originally posted by laserRSawd
What do you guys recommend me to use after a rebuild? Should I break it in with regular oil and then switch to synthetic? If so how long should I run regular oil in it?

Yes, break it in with conventional oil, then flush and replace with synthetic if desired at your next oil change.
 
the general idea is to break in the car using conventional oils to let the rings seat properly, but Amsoil claims you can break in a car using their oil with no problems. I might also mention that the new evolution as well as C5 corvettes come FROM THE FACTORY running full synthetic Mobil 1...what does that tell you?

And just because a car has high mileage, does not mean the car will leak when changing to full syn...I switched to full synthetic at 119k miles, and not a single leak.

I wrote up a comparison on some oils that you guys might be interested in, check it out at www.fattonyracing.com ....go to the "product reviews" section (needs to be renamed) and go to the oil comparison...I will be an Authorized Amsoil Dealer soon, and I will be most likely offering a discount to DSM owners if anyone is interested.
 
...And just because a car has high mileage, does not mean the car will leak when changing to full syn...I switched to full synthetic at 119k miles, and not a single leak....

It's not a rule of thumb that all high mileage cars will leak with synthetic oil. However, if your car has a lot of carbon deposits on already cracked rubber seals and gaskets, then yes, synthetic oil can break down those deposits and cause a leak.

Regards,
 
agreed...but the mileage and regular wear and tear itself wont cause oil leaks when switching to synthetic...as long as maintenence is not abused.
 
I have a 90 N/T with 148K, I never had a smoking problem until recently. This is only the third time straight that I used Mobil 1, and now it has developed a little smoking condition, but other then that I like Mobil 1, the car runs great.

I got hooked on Mobil 1 when I had my SHO 3.0L
 
Sweet jeezus, it doesnt get any worse than pennzoil. Theres a reason why most speed lube places use it. And thats because its cheap. And you get what you pay for. Cheap oil. Every engine ive seen that runs pennzoil has a thick layer of crap all over everything. Awful.
 
heh... I am the odd man out here.... Quaker State 10w-30 with Wix filter... for the last year... and I drive ALOT, at LEAST 3000 miles a month on my car... and NO troubles with the engine.


--Scott
 
Tell me where you get the idea that I am wrong? Show me evidence

On the QUAKER STATE WEBSITE on the product sheet that displays whats in the oil and other info, it says there is Paraffin rite on there. What are you basing you assumption on? Are you just defending the fact that you are a cheap ass and use crappy oil or what?

Any valvoline, castrol GTX, or major brand petroleum based oils will work. STAY AWAY from Pennzoil(sh**zoil) and Quaker State(Quaker Crap), these are parafin(wax) based oils and will break down under high temps or hard driving, and vw's run very hot anyway.

Taken from Volksport website.

The immediate success of Hase Petroleum resulted from an agreement with Sohio (later BP), and Quaker State Oil to market their waxes. In 1989, two smaller wax brokerages were merged into Hase Petroleum and by the end of 1990 sales of slack, paraffin, micro crystalline, natural and poly waxes grew to $7 million.

That came from Hase Petroleum wax company.

Clock, either Valvoline or Casrol. as far as what weight, the lightest one required to mantain good pressure. any heavier oil is just putting more load on the pump and the drive components. Quaker state has a high percentage of wax in it thats why it sludges up so bad. the sludge turns to carbon the carbon particals turn to abrasive grit that circulates through you engine. on a lo po low rpm eng that doesn't load the bearings it not a real big problem." if your gonna run her hard it better NOT HAVE quackie state in it! "

That came from a Monte Carlo club post. you can see the rest of that at
Here!

Would you like more references to the wax that is contained in Quaker State or are you going to stop spouting answers that you cant back up now?
 
Has anyone used Rislone? I heard that Rislone would stop lifter ticking.
The ticking I experience is not bad if I let my car warm up for 5 min, but still annoying and loud for those 5 min.
I use Mobile1 synth, but I hear that Royal Purple is better...?
:talon: :talon: :talon: :talon: :talon:
 
Originally posted by Methos
i had lifter tick on one of them so i took them out, blasted them clean with an air gun, oiled em up a little, put em back in, and no more lifter tick. They get "gunked" up.

How do you get to your lifters? Is it easy/hard? Would you have intructions and/or pics as of how to do it?

:talon: :talon: :talon: :talon: :talon:
 
Originally posted by Keaka26
Tell me where you get the idea that I am wrong? Show me evidence

On the QUAKER STATE WEBSITE on the product sheet that displays whats in the oil and other info, it says there is Paraffin rite on there. What are you basing you assumption on? Are you just defending the fact that you are a cheap ass and use crappy oil or what?

Any valvoline, castrol GTX, or major brand petroleum based oils will work. STAY AWAY from Pennzoil(sh**zoil) and Quaker State(Quaker Crap), these are parafin(wax) based oils and will break down under high temps or hard driving, and vw's run very hot anyway.

Taken from Volksport website.

The immediate success of Hase Petroleum resulted from an agreement with Sohio (later BP), and Quaker State Oil to market their waxes. In 1989, two smaller wax brokerages were merged into Hase Petroleum and by the end of 1990 sales of slack, paraffin, micro crystalline, natural and poly waxes grew to $7 million.

That came from Hase Petroleum wax company.

Clock, either Valvoline or Casrol. as far as what weight, the lightest one required to mantain good pressure. any heavier oil is just putting more load on the pump and the drive components. Quaker state has a high percentage of wax in it thats why it sludges up so bad. the sludge turns to carbon the carbon particals turn to abrasive grit that circulates through you engine. on a lo po low rpm eng that doesn't load the bearings it not a real big problem." if your gonna run her hard it better NOT HAVE quackie state in it! "

That came from a Monte Carlo club post. you can see the rest of that at
Here!

Would you like more references to the wax that is contained in Quaker State or are you going to stop spouting answers that you cant back up now?

Please educate yourself on the refining process before spouting BS. Thank you.

There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending its engine oil products.

Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude oil, and in order to ensure that we produce the highest quality base stocks available, Quaker State® removes the maximum amount of wax possible during the refining process. The end result is a motor oil product formulated with premium lubricating base oil.


http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp
 
Is It True That Paraffinic Base Oils Can Cause Wax Buildup And Sludge?

This is not true. All high quality motor oils are made from paraffinic base oils. Despite its name, paraffin does not mean candle wax. The stability of paraffin molecules makes paraffinic base oils more resistant to the chemical changes that can take place in an engine than other types of base oils. That means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear with a high quality paraffinic base motor oil.


http://www.corrosioncontrol.net/motoroil_faq.htm
 
Does Pennzoil have paraffins which cause sludging while other brands don't... ?

Sludging is prevented by, not caused by, the use of paraffinic oils. Pennzoil as well as all other major motor oil producers use paraffinic base oils to produce motor oil. This type of base oil has advantages over the other types of mineral oil available, which is why they are universally used. The only exceptions are synthetic motor oils, which of course cost much more than mineral oil based motor oils. Synthetic base stocks are 100% paraffinic. Technically, paraffinic oil is a term used to describe the chemical structure, not the wax content.


http://209.91.160.98/pennzoil/faq.htm
 
Myth: Paraffinic base oils can cause wax buildup and sludge.

FACT: Not true. All high quality petroleum motor oils are made from paraffinic base oils. In spite of it's name, paraffin does not mean candle wax. The stability of paraffin molecules makes paraffinic base oils more resistant to chemical changes that can take place in an engine than other types of base oils. That means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear with a high quality paraffinic base motor oil.


http://www.keckoil.com/myths.html
 
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