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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
I assume you mean streetable as noise levels. You can make an external streetable. You just need to plumb it back into the downpipe. If you have the moneys to make 450HP, then an extra $200 to do the plumbing may be worth it, unless you alreadyhave an exhaust you don't want to chop up. If that is the case, a FP Green or even internally gated 20G will do you fine. Also take a look at the Mutts. Many people swear they suck, but I know many people running good numbers on them. They are to DSMs now, like the T28 was a couple years ago. Also, don't rule out the Garrett turbo. I have 3 friends running a 50-1 T3/T4 from Turbonetics and all 3 are making 450 or more HP on stock head, intake and cams. They spool at around 3600rpms and pull HARD. External is required on them.
 
You don't necessarily have to plumb the external back in the the DP. I'm letting my external vent to the atmosphere and the noise is actually minimal. It's hard to push that much HP on a stock 2G head and 2G intake manifold. I hit 297whp @ 18lbs with my setup (I had my setup with a Frank 3 instead of the FP Green I now have and the stock head). I'm sure everyone knows but you can not use your stock IC with a turbo like the Green or Mutt's.
 
Well I looked at your mods list and it said "totally stock" so even though I sell large custom turbos in the 450hp range I would not recommend using one on your car.

Personally I think you are cheating yourself out of a lot of fun if you have never put a 16g on a 1g DSM. Everyone should run a 16g or big16g at least once before going to something larger. It gives you a chance to collect all the parts you will need to make that larger turbo work properly. It will also give you the greatest bang for the buck.

If you buy a big16g now you can leave it on the car while you fine tune the rest of your setup, it will easily take you deep into the 12's on an AWD DSM.

Of course others will disagree, but they are wrong :)

Robert Young
Forced Performance
 
Originally posted by forcedperf


Of course others will disagree, but they are wrong :)


I totally agree,
I've had a 14b, ported 16G and now purchasing a ported/clipped 18G
After the 18G I am going with a green,
Most people say "don't waste your money, just go big right away."
But what the hell fun is that? I'll go big after I try all the little stuff. It's just fun to see the difference each size makes.
Do what you want, but your not me. :D
 
Originally posted by forcedperf
Of course others will disagree, but they are wrong :)

Bwahahah. :laugh:

Why is it new guys always go for the turbo as the first thing to upgrade? Yeah its what makes the power but damn, there is so much more to it than that. Oh well. I will sit back and play with my T25 a while longer.

Go with the turbo that meets your needs. You don't buy size 12 shoes when you are only a size 6 even though you know someday you will be wearing size 12's do you? No. You buy a 7 or 8 so you can grow into it. Then you buy a size 10 and finally you grow into that size 12. If you had been wearing the size 12 from day 1 you would look like a clown.

Don't be that turbo clown. Know when to say 'when'.
 
Originally posted by Tevenor
Why is it new guys always go for the turbo as the first thing to upgrade?

ill tell you why, even though that isnt the route I followed as I actually went step by step on the MOD list that I was supposed to do its a common misconception that you can buy a DSM and smack a large ass turbo on it and be unbeatable just like that.. thats what I thought before I looked into the car much.. I didnt realize anything about injectors and fuel pumps and AFCs etc etc etc..
 
I know that only upgrading the turbo won't work. I am doing all the book work and asking around to find the best set ups to suit my needs. I am trying to learn from others mistakes, and I am going to do many mods at once. I stockpile my money to upgrade certain areas at a time.
 
Get the supports first!!! with the plan of going big in the NEAR future. I know a guy that had every bolt-on mod that you could do to a 1G and 14b including a Haltech.
 
Originally posted by jacob_voss5
I am trying to learn from others mistakes, and I am going to do many mods at once. I stockpile my money to upgrade certain areas at a time.

IMO, that's a mistake. I'd do just a few mods at a time. If something goes wrong, you will be able to pinpoint it a lot easier if you only did 2 things instead of 10 things at once. You will wind up chasing your tail, and going over everything you just installed.

Good luck man.
 
Originally posted by Tevenor
Why is it new guys always go for the turbo as the first thing to upgrade?

Stop talking about me Sean... :)

I slapped an 18G I had laying around on an otherwise pretty stock Talon. I made an $8 MBC, cranked it up, threw in some C16 and ran a 13.4@102. I'm sure I could have gotten 12s with some better driving, more fuel pressure and an AFC.

It can be fun but it's not a game.
 
If I may bud in, what turbo is suitable (combined with the usual intake, exhaust, and fuel upgrades) to get me mid-to-high 12's? I'm new with these cars? What's the diff between 14g, 16g, 18g and 20g in terms of performance and price?
 
Batman...

Yes, it Rocks! >>NO i have yet to run a time or get a dyno number...when I do I'll let ya know. (I'll post it on dsmtimes also when I get it_).

The turbo pulls strong and feels great...(that's on 15lbs>>I haven't even gotten around to turning the boost up and tuning the car yet--> that will come soon!).

Reason for me not having any kinda numbers yet has been due to let's see:
-driveshaft bearings going bad
-broken tranny(shattered the center diff spider gear).
-dead ecu (X2)
-boost leak in IC core>>took a month to take care of.
-And now a failing 2G mass air flow.
-Also not having a job for a month straight.
-Along with me being a slack ass and taking my sweet time doing things.
-OH, and the lack of a tag for the car makes things difficult(working on fixing that one to).

It takes money to go FAST. And I've been lacking lately.

Which FP turbo do you run Batman...I gathered you have one of their turbos....I'm just curious. Also, have you got any times/dyno #s etc on your setup??

Laters
Jason.
 
Originally posted by Canada Kid
If I may bud in, what turbo is suitable (combined with the usual intake, exhaust, and fuel upgrades) to get me mid-to-high 12's? I'm new with these cars? What's the diff between 14g, 16g, 18g and 20g in terms of performance and price?
At the top of this page, you'll find a handy link titled "Tuning Guide". That should help too.
 
electron blu....
you can run mid-low 11's with just bolt-ons in a 1g awd. your going to needa 20g or larger (but alot of the time..something simple and plain is better than the fancy expensive turbo), a good fmic kit, a good fuel system with control, a datalogger, a full 3" 02 back exhaust. and a good clutch/4 bolt rear/center diff. that's the main items. there's obviously other stuff guages,aftermarket bov helps, external WG,

running 11's isn't cheap....
 
As you can see in my profile I upgraded everything except my turbo. Yes, it sucks because you are just boost hungry, but you will be able to take full advantage of the new turbo and you learn alot along the way. When someone see's a nice FMIC on you car and asks you what turbo you have.. and you say stock 14b.. Yes you get strange looks.. but in the end you will be happy you did it.

My T3/T4 50 Trim is on the way.. :D
 
For all those who have asked, will ask, or will answer this question.... this is probably the most popular subject among newer DSMers.

Here's how to ask it:

1. List your mods in your Profile.
2. List your budget for the turbo and supporting mods.
3. List what your goals are (times, streetable, emissions, etc.)
4. Be sure that you understand what supporting mods are needed for larger turbos... we list some good info in the Tuning Guide.
5. Try to have some knowledge of the turbos you may choose.

Without this information, you can't expect any useful info. Expect to get responses from people who will swear by the turbo they've installed - yet may have not even tried other turbos. Also expect to get unhelpful debate between owners who have purchased turbos made by competing manufacturers. Try and compare only the information from people who have mods similar to what you'll have. It won't be an easy task.

Here's how to post a useful answer:

1. List your mods and achievements in your Profile.
2. List what your goals were when you, yourself were turbo shopping.
3. List what turbo(s) you went with - not which one(s) you didn't.
4. Post your experiences with the turbo(s) you've used.
5. Do not give opinions on the turbo(s) you have no first-hand experience with.
6. Do not argue with other turbo owners from a competing manufacturer.

If everyone were to follow these simple steps, everyone would be able to come away with some useful information. Once people start debating on what they "think" a turbo is capable of, then it's no longer useful.
 
Main Mods
3" Turbo back exhaust
ACT 2600
Magnus Intake Manifold
Ported Exhaust Manifold
Haltech E6K
APEXi AVC-R
HKS SSQV
Tial Wastegate
Spearco Intercooler
G Pumper Stage 5

Car has gone 12.4@116MPH

When I was first shopping for a turbocharger, I basically wanted a good street turbo that could/would kick ass on the track. The reason the time is so slow was a shitty 60', and 17#'s of boost. The car, on pump gas (94 octane Sunoco, an aboundance in Canada, hehe) and 21#'s of boost made 407WHP. That is to the front wheels, disconnected TC, etc. The turbo has surpassed all of my expectations, especially a 116mph trap, on pump gas, and no nitrous. I have now switched to a GT35R, more drag racing and I have a bit more competition in the Pro Street class up here now. That is basically it.

If you have any further questions just ask me. I know no one has asked yet, but thought I would get this **** started.
 
mods:
3in full exhust
dfcf clutch
hks intake
hks bov
16G
xbc

Budget:
whatever it takes/as little as possible

goal:
must pass emissions, best turbo for street,low-mid 12's.

mods needed:
injectors(size?), s-afc, fuel pump(size?),fmic(which?),turbo(which?)

current turbo's concidering:
20g, green,mutt(don't know anything about them)
 
you can run mid-low 11's with just bolt-ons in a 1g awd. your going to needa 20g or larger (but alot of the time..something simple and plain is better than the fancy expensive turbo), a good fmic kit, a good fuel system with control, a datalogger, a full 3" 02 back exhaust. and a good clutch/4 bolt rear/center diff. that's the main items. there's obviously other stuff guages,aftermarket bov helps, external WG,

exactly, the turbo is only one part of a 11 second setup. the turbo will not do it alone.
 
Originally posted by jdmawd
exactly, the turbo is only one part of a 11 second setup. the turbo will not do it alone.

No, a Mutt stage 37 bolted on a stock car will put you in the 11s. It's on the DSM Shop site. :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by BatmanGSX


No, a Mutt stage 37 bolted on a stock car will put you in the 11s. It's on the DSM Shop site. :rolleyes:

Cool I think I will get that instead of their new ballistic turbos, but I think I will run the ETE32 a little bit before I switch. IM very curious to see what my car runs with proper supporting mods and a good tune before i install cams
 
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