Which 16g turbo is good?

[jjm96gst]

So, for street driving the small 16g is good enough. I plan on going to the tracks every once in a while. I like my car to get up and go especially in the streets. My main concern I don't want to get the small 16g and then a week or month later, I want to upgrade. I want to upgrade once and be satisfy with that. I am aiming for 300 to 350 and then I'm good with that because it's my DD for now.

I highly doubt that you will only upgrade your turbo once. After each upgrade you do you will be like damn this is fast. After a maybe a couple of weeks or so you be like damn this is slow. You will always be upgrading its enough. Why not go with a with a different turbo. 16g are not the only turbos out there. Look into an hx35 maybe I have never had one but have heard great things. I personally have a s16g running on stockish boost until I get supporting mods. Still pulls hard though.

 

[beachbum2185]

ummm....why not look on the classifieds on here? that's the first place i would look. get one that needs a rebuild, and have jusmax141 (sp?) rebuild it. dont know why people haven't suggested to look here on the site first before you check out ebay, craigslist, and vendors.

 

[the_mork]

It actually flows about 7 lb/min less, so worse than you thought.

You're right, long day and I just blanked on this. I really meant this the other way, that the big 16g only flowed 2lbs/min more than the small 16g but with the same sacrifice in spool as the evo3 16g. It didn't come out that way though and I'm glad you caught it and you're keeping me honest.

Small 16g flow = 34 lbs/min
Big 16g flow = 36 lbs/min
EVO III 16 flow = 42 lbs/min

 

[wkmitsu]

ummm....why not look on the classifieds on here? that's the first place i would look. get one that needs a rebuild, and have jusmax141 (sp?) rebuild it. dont know why people haven't suggested to look here on the site first before you check out ebay, craigslist, and vendors.

Check out the 7th and 18th posts. I suggested MAP for rebuilds, mostly because I knew exactly what their pricing is for the type of turbo in question.

 

[pbwu1f]

IDK but I thought I saw an E316G for $499 somewhere brand new.

 

[black_gsx]

^^ yeah it was the FP EvoIII. Forced Performance will help with any and all questions you will have on that turbo. Really cool guys to deal with just na FYI. good luck with your build!

 

[DanGST]

I looked at FB is there a big difference from the 20g and evo3 16g because the 20g is only 40 more than the e316g

 

[JusMX141]

I looked at FB is there a big difference from the 20g and evo3 16g because the 20g is only 40 more than the e316g

The difference is the 20G won't fit your car without a DSM turbine housing and modification of the wastegate actuator. The Evo III is a direct bolt-on.

Price-wise, the Evo III is the best bang for your buck. The highest airflow of the three, the cheapest price tag and best availability of the three.

The Small 16G is just a shade above the 14B in airflow according to the map, but many guys are netting high-30's of lb/min out of these because the smaller compressor wheel allows the turbo to rotate at a faster RPM than the Big 16G. Although, to net this airflow the Small 16G is working much harder than the Big 16G, so you'll probably wear it out quicker. The Small 16G is best for someone who wants a 14B's quick-spool with more airflow potential than the 14B can give....like Autocross.

 

[cookmeup272]

The thing is, you are asking for 350whp. Yes a 16g can get you there, but why not leave yourself a little extra breathing room. I run a 50 trim on my car and I love it. Im going bigger next season and will be selling my 50 trim. If your interested, pm me.

 

[dsm-onster]

No, the_mork. You were right the first time. The compressor maps for the big 16g and evo3 16g show about a 2-3lb/min flow difference at choke. . . which is usable efficiency, efficiency at 60%. Use compressor maps and not general ratings.

However, I still prefer the evo3 16g over the big 16g if you want more flow than a small 16g. The small 16g is more efficient than the big 16g up to 36lb/min. Then after that, the evo3 16g is more efficient up to the big 16g choke (60% efficiency), which is 40lb/min. The small 16g flows 38lb/min to 60% efficiency, the evo3 16g is around 42-43lb/min at 60% efficiency. There's no place for the big 16g. The evo3 16g is a revision of the design for the evos (evo I & II turbo is the big 16g). After that the small 16g came out. to more fill the gap between the 15g and evo 16g. The small 16g has the newest tech of all the 16g turbos. Hense why it is so efficient so deep in the old big 16g flow range, yet the compressor is so much smaller.

 

[the_mork]

I looked at FB is there a big difference from the 20g and evo3 16g because the 20g is only 40 more than the e316g

The 20g you are looking at is actually a t3 style inlet which means you would need a different manifold making it much more expensive. This surprised me when I was looking at the FP website, first the minimal price difference, and then that they put a t3 flanged turbo in the dsm section without a huge disclaimer that it wouldn't fit without additions modifications.

dsm-onster, thanks for the further clarification.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Forced Performance Turbochargers: Mitsubishi EVO III 16g Turbo

That is where you should buy it from.

 

[DanGST]

Forced Performance Turbochargers: Mitsubishi EVO III 16g Turbo

That is where you should buy it from.

Ported or Unported? Clipped or not Clipped? What is the difference amongst these options?

 

[donniekak]

Ported or Unported? Clipped or not Clipped? What is the difference amongst these options?

Porting is grinding out the housings, clipping is cutting pieces of the turbine blades off.

 

[the_mork]

IMO most porting is rather expensive for what it does. The important thing for a 16g is to port the wastegate outlet to reduce boost creep, BUT the evo 3 16g is much better about boost creep than other td05h turbos and the difference in price involved in porting can pay for a good chunk of the mods necessary to run the higher boost that you would hit with boost creep anyway.

When I bought my 16g I expected that I wanted to max it out and ported everything to a total of several hundred dollars. If I had to do it again I would have just put it on the car as is and used the money elsewhere. The way that I feel about it now is that if I'm reaching the point of nearly macing out the turbo then it is time to move on to a bigger turbo since it takes less than a couple hours to change a turbo once you've done them a couple of times and it is easier to sell a turbo in good condition that hasn't been run to its limits for a while than to just reach near the end of the turbo's efficiency then move on while it is still in mint condition. There are plenty of other places to spend your money and you can always pull the turbo off to port it later if you really need to.

 

[wkmitsu]

The thing is, you are asking for 350whp. Yes a 16g can get you there, but why not leave yourself a little extra breathing room. I run a 50 trim on my car and I love it. Im going bigger next season and will be selling my 50 trim. If your interested, pm me.

You need to clarify what turbo you mean by "50 trim" because the E3 16G is also a 50 trim...

 

[DanGST]

Beside the turbo, I know I need the 2g install kit. Other than the kit what else should I get with the turbo, I was looking on FB and it had related items for the e316g

 

[DanGST]

Beside the boost Gauge, what other Gauge should I look into because I was going to get the cluster Gauge that brings two gauges

 

[wkmitsu]

Beside the boost Gauge, what other Gauge should I look into because I was going to get the cluster Gauge that brings two gauges

Pretty much the only gauges you need are boost, oil pressure, and wideband.

 

[DanGST]

Pretty much the only gauges you need are boost, oil pressure, and wideband.

Newb question alert: What exactly does the oil gauge read, is it the regular oil in a car? Also, what is a wideband for?

 

[cookmeup272]

An oil pressure gauge will read the oil pressure wherever it is installed, usually at the oil filter housing. A wideband is a necessity when it comes to tuning. It tells you how rich or lean the air-to-fuel mixture is. To lean and you risk predetonation. Too rich and you lose power and if its rich enough, you can start to wash out. Lean=power. Too lean=problems

 

[wkmitsu]

Newb question alert: What exactly does the oil gauge read, is it the regular oil in a car? Also, what is a wideband for?

The oil gauge reads the oil pressure, usually from the oil filter housing. The wideband monitors your air to fuel ratio.

 

[DanGST]

How can you adjust the air to fuel ratio?

 

[wkmitsu]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/180544-optimal-f-ratio-quite-long.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/240944-air-fuel-ratio-talk.html

 

[cookmeup272]

You dont really adjust the AR ratio directly. You can influence a change by changing how much fuel is added to the system. This is done by some sort of fuel management system (SAFC, ECMlink, megasquirt, AEM)