good street turbo no 16g.

[sho_tyme_psi]

one of the things most people don't understand is that bigger turbo's at lower pressure levels flow much more air than the smaller turbo's. You are best off to go with something that you will run at around 80% of it's potential so you will have some headroom for future mods and still have great response.

+1

I'm not a big fan on the mitsu turbos mainly due to the exhaust housings, and the few I have rode in feel like they fall off top end where a bigger turbo will keep pulling. My car has a huge turbo on it and will be street driven. I guess alot has to do with what you will use it for and what you consider a STREETABLE turbo.

But best of luck with the build.

 

[2gGSX]

one of the things most people don't understand is that bigger turbo's at lower pressure levels flow much more air than the smaller turbo's. You are best off to go with something that you will run at around 80% of it's potential so you will have some headroom for future mods and still have great response.

True as that may be that doesn't necessarily say the turbo will be running efficiently, which is something important for a "street turbo".

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Yeah, That's pretty much the best choice for good top end and decent spool for the street. You can go bigger, which i would recommend, but a 50 trim is plenty. I would highly recommend going with an fP green.

I have a stock 6 bolt with a 50 trim and i get full boost at about 3900 rpms and it pulls to 6800 ish rpms no problem (stock cams). I made 302 awhp at 21 psi tuning with the afc and no afpr on a bone stock longblock.

I am just curious, what kind of fuel pump do you have?

 

[BatmanGSX]

I'm constantly amazed by people like batmanGSX that will dog on people running unproven stuff. And calling the Hoset a POS is way out of line. If anything they have proven to outlast pretty much any Garrett by far. Was working on one the other day that had 240,000 miles on it and it was pushing 30 PSI that whole time almost constantly. Shaft play was still with-in spec and the truck ran great. Almost every Garrett I've seen with that much milage and abuse has far more bearing wear. They where still functional but almost all of them had shaft play that was out of spec. What is bad is the Mitsu housings people mate them up to. To small for the large frame turbo and the backpressure is just to much to overcome. It's why their really isn't much difference from 20 psi to 30 psi.

I agree with you actually, the Holeset turbo might be a good option in the proper turbine housing, with a proper header, rather than some bolt-on housing that's actually smaller than a 7cm Mitsu.

 

[noreaga0221]

And the 20g is like $1150.

Its actually under 900 for a tdo6 and $50 less for the td05 from JNZ.

 

[olmytsi]

I am just curious, what kind of fuel pump do you have?

255 high pressure, no rewiring. The 302 awhp was with no adjustable fuel pressure regulator so it was a pretty sloppy tune as fuel delivery was inconsistent.

 

[Maglin]

It was a dodge cummings. And I've seen many Garretts on semi's that have considerable shaft play. Ton's of miles.

And proper matching of the cold and hot side is important for total turbo performance. I currently have a Holset in the Bullseye housing. Spools way to fast and falls off way to early cause of the tiny turbine housing. In the Holset's 12 cm^ housing they preform much better with a little more lag.

Also streetable is in the eye of the beholder. Some thing that sub 4000 RPM spool = streetable. I feel sub 6000 rpm spool is streetable. Anything past that isn't going to fun on the street at all. But then again I don't feel turning 10,000 rpms is that bad a thing so their is plenty of powerband. Just need the top end to be able to hand that kind of abuse.

If you want something fast spooling and be able to putout 350 WHP then the E316G is the ticket. Plus it looks stock from the outside. If you are looking for a 400-450 WHP turbo then you are going to want to look at the TD06H 20G. You should see full spool around 4200 RPM's and have plenty of power. MHI turbos are built well and can handle a moderate amount of abuse. And they bolt on with the hot and cold side of the turbo being matched for eachother. I'm personally looking for 700+HP and have decided to go way outside the box with a lot of things. I hope to have some dyno numbers by the end of summer and then I'll maybe share some of the very strange things I've applied to my top end.

 

[2gGSX]

Its actually under 900 for a tdo6 and $50 less for the td05 from JNZ.

Link please? The only turbo listed under Mitsubishi is the Evo III

 

[noreaga0221]

Link please? The only turbo listed under Mitsubishi is the Evo III

Call em up. Not everything they sell is on their website.

 

[Pennywise]

20gs have been proven time and time again. BUT for the price you pay for a td06 20g you could get a gt30r for just a tad more. that will make more power and have better spool time.

 

[Steve93Talon]

I currently have a Holset in the Bullseye housing. Spools way to fast and falls off way to early cause of the tiny turbine housing.

Carl's HX40 in a Bullseye housing spools fast and pulls very hard to 8k. Maybe you're just maxing out the HX35 cold side?

 

[Maglin]

Carl's HX40 in a Bullseye housing spools fast and pulls very hard to 8k. Maybe you're just maxing out the HX35 cold side?

It's possible. I have a H1E and HX52 sitting on a shelf in the garage for this summer. I'm going to try to use the HX52 but it might not see full spool until 8K which would be definitly something I would call lag.

The 35 pulls like a raped prom date on fire all the way until I shift which is way past the stock redline. But past 5K I can just definitly feel a diferance. Their are a few factors that are effecting it other than the TH but it is to small. I'll be posting some pics once I get it installed and of course my opinions on it. I got a smoking deal on the 52 which is brand new. I figure if it doesn't work I can sell it to a Dodge guy for double what I paid for it and he would still be getting one hell of a deal.

 

[Steve93Talon]

A local guy picked up a rebuilt HX50 from a diesel shop, had a bullseye housing machined to fit it, and threw it on his car. It didnt spool too much higher than Carl's setup. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few hundred miles (either a crappy rebuild job or maybe an oil contamination problem). Carl has a Holset turbine housing for an HX35 sitting if you're interested in trying it. It's a T3 style flange with divided inlet, not sure what cm it is.

 

[DGajre777]

If you want a turbo to last a few years, get a FP Green or MHI TD06 20G. Yes, they are expensive, but with the price comes reliability.

If you have a 1G and want a stock looking turbo, look at the Bastard 20G that Slowboyracing sells.

 

[ISUJakey]

If you have a 1G and want a stock looking turbo, look at the Bastard 20G that Slowboyracing sells.

And these bastard turbos have a proven themselves as long term, reliable turbos? I have a good story about one of these failing after 4 months and SBR still charging to rebuild it, feel free to PM me.

 

[DGajre777]

And these bastard turbos have a proven themselves as long term, reliable turbos?

I don't see why it wouldn't be reliable. It is uses MHI 20G parts in a MHI 16G housings. But since you'd had one fail on your, I'll keep that in mind.

 

[dalatinromeo]

So has the original poster decided on which turbo he is going to get?

 

[r10performance]

Your not really getting the point. Sure he has the motor to support a big turbo, but does he need a turbo that big or even the motor he has? The point is most DSM owners today just go with the latest and greatest or the biggest one they can afford and never max them out or even get close. So many people have 50 trims with strokers and all kinds of BS just to run high 12's.

If you consider a stock 132k six bolt with 91psi of compression in #1 cylinder a motor to support a big turbo - you're wrong. I ran [email protected] with a beat motor - stock head, gasket and ARP's. Only engine mod done was ARP's, balance elim, and FP2's.

I bought the turbo because it was different and we werent looking to 'beat a dead horse' or reinvent the wheel. The car is down with clutch engagement issues. First time out this season I had my best run ever and the tree was down at the track - all I got was 1/8 miles which indicated an 11.2 run based on calculations.

Either way, I have a basic, fresh block being assembled in my garage that is going in the car. I am trying to do more, with less in terms of engine build, etc.. We are going to run a stock head on this setup to see what we can get out of it...

The HX40 turbo makes power, as do alot of others! And, the numbers prove it...with very little time and tuning behind the car in full weight trim with my baby seat in the back. Oh, again...did I mention stock suspension and radials on stock wheels???

Regardless of what turbo setup you are running...good on ya...DSM's are tits!