what to do with cams?

[avaien]

I need a timing belt swap. So I am going to get a kit. I read there are 5 seals that I need to get along with the kit. What might they be? I want to get cams at the same time and was looking at the fp2x's but would the fp2's be close enough to tell a difference? Otherwise that requires the high tension spring kit. I'd also be getting revised lifters. I also think it would be a good time to take the head off and do the head studs and that requires a new head gasket Im assuming. What else would be wise to do with all of this? For power and reliability? I was thinking balance shaft removal but don't know if its really worth it.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Hmm I would think for a timing belt swap the seals would be 2 cam seals, a main crank seal, the oil pump sprocket seal and maybe a water pump gasket since usually the water pump gets changed at the same time?

 

[Black94DSM]

Dont forget a Valve Cover Gasket.

 

[LA97GST]

The cams really depend on what turbo you eventually want to be running. FP2's are great cams and perfect for 90 percent of all DSM's. If you have the will, money, and large turbo plans go with the FP2X's.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I agree, and on a personal opinion note. I would not worry about changing the head studs until you need to. there is not reason breaking open a motor for the sole reason of new head studs. Do that when you need to do a rebuild.

 

[NewB2dsm]

if you take the head off, you should get it decked and clean the block as good as you possibly can. Torque everything correctly and so on. I wouldnt worry about it till it actually goes but if you have the money and time, why not? YOu are already half way there witht he timing belt stuff off.

 

[avaien]

Ive got an agp rs49t and was hoping to push 20+ psi after cams. The fp2's would be better, bang for the buck? Also no need for head studs at 20+ psi?

 

[dsm-onster]

Ive got an agp rs49t and was hoping to push 20+ psi after cams. The fp2's would be better, bang for the buck? Also no need for head studs at 20+ psi?

I think the FP2s are perfect for the 50 trim. They flow very well up top but they idle fine You have turbo that is more willing to spool than a 60-1/FP RED or bigger, so it shouldn't feel like such a slug at 3,000 rpms, even if you don't get full spool until 3,700+ rpms. The FP2Xs are really for BIG turbos, IMHO. They have a more accelerated ramp rate, which broadens the power band giving you a bit more down low and up beyond the FP2s. So I got a pair because I knew I was going to a 60-1 soon.

You really should look into shimming your springs at the very least for these cams. Shep went deep into the single digits with even (same height) shims. Research this to get the best shim height. That may be a cheaper option for you. But then, I would look at titanium retainers to minimize the accelerating mass in the valvetrain. I got a set of Manley springs from SBR for 120 bones and am running stock retainers with the FP2Xs for thousands of miles now and I have no issues, pulls smooth, even, and quickly to redline at 8500 rpms.

So, in all I say the FP2s are perfect and you may not notice that much of a gain by going to the X version. The money that it takes to go to the X version isn't really worth it with a 50 trim, IMHO. But, if you do get FP2Xs and properly modify the valvetrain, you should never really need to upgrade your head again (except maybe for oversized valves and porting).

 

[avaien]

If I feel like doing the head studs I could just as well help the motor out. To hold my or little bigger turbo what would the block need? rods I think, pistons might as well?

 

[dsm-onster]

Your rods are supposedly weaker than those found in a 6-bolt engine (1990-1991). However, stock 7-bolts ahve been taken to the top end of a 50-trims level without any issues. A headgasket is a safety fuse. If you get any significant detonation at all at this level, you are likely going to pop a head gasket. This can happen when you're just tuning (like me). I lifted my head (stretched my bigger, non-torque-to-yield, 6-bolt headbolts) while tuning . But this was better than doing internal engine damage, right?

So, I say don't get the head studs until you pop a gasket if you're sort of unsure about where to take your tune or are fresh at tuning. Somewhere I read that you can replace the headbolts with head studs while the head is on block, swapping one at a time... But I hope someone chimes in and corrects me if that is a myth. If it's true, then you don't need to do a lot of work. But you do have a good baring on how to tune your setup.

 

[EvolvingGST]

I was thinking about using Crower Springs with Titanium Retainers. Do you think I should go with a FP1x intake and a FP2 exhaust or FP2x exhaust? I want to also use stock valves. Yes I am a cheap bastard...

BTW: I am running a 50 trim as well from AGP.... I am thinking Eagle/Ross and I am stuck on the head gasket.... I want to max this puppy out... Mitsu Metal or Cosmetic. Make suggestions please...

 

[avaien]

I think Ill just go with some fp2's and some new lifters. also the timing belt and stuff needed for that. ill just see how far I can take this 7 bolt.

 

[sweet97]

I recently switched my HKS 272's for Crower stage 4's. Both sets of cams idle nicely with the Crowers having a little more lope and 2" less vacuum. I read where a guy with a stroker who had the 272's switched to the stage 3's and picked up 27HP. Just don't overlook the Crowers. $533. shipped. Mark