1G What is this thing?

[DeadlyScone]

Can i just run a line around instead of having this thing?

Also when i boost leak test my car, @ 10psi air starts blowing out the top of this as fast as i can put it in and it smells like fuel. There are only 2 lines hooked up and i lined them with red in the picture. the bottom has a blue rubber cap on it.

I have no clue what it is, what it does, and how i can fix this issue. Please help me my car is suffering

Thanks

- Austin

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[stars]

Oil catch can?

 

[DeadlyScone]

Oil catch can?

Should it be blowing out air like that though

 

[stars]

It can yes, it is supposed to be hooked into the pvc system on the valve cover. Excess oil can accumulate it that area, that's why it had been modified and added to catch the oil. The cars had a bad problem with sucking the oil into the throttle body thru the pcv. The pcv is essentially the vent tube for crankcase gasses that build up from combustion process. The gasses are re-routed back to the intake to help eliminate them in the next combustion cycle, oil is also accumulated in that process as it is happening. You may search for, Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) and that will give you a better idea of what the system is supposed to look like without that oil catch can.

if it is blowing air out of that hole then you have a vacuum leak...get it routed correctly or fixed.

 

[DeadlyScone]

I don't understand how this is normal. When i BLT The car can't hold pressure because all the air just escapes out the top of it. I don't think that is right, along the lines of holding boost. Is there a fix for this or is the can garbage?

 

[serviceguy]

You're leaking air either through your valve seals or your rings. Did you try a compression/leakdown test? I would route those lines where they're supposed to be while you're trying to figure out what is wrong with the car, the PCV to the intake manifold and the the other one to the intake pipe if you have a provision for it.

 

[gho5tone]

Did you rotate crank till top dead center and blt when the engine is warm?

 

[DeadlyScone]

Did you rotate crank till top dead center and blt when the engine is warm?

engine was half normal op temp, but no, i did not rotate the crank to TDC. does that make a difference?

 

[stars]

I will shoot a pic over to you, I can show you the factory diagram how it is supposed to be routed. PM me your e-mail addy.

 

[DeadlyScone]

I will shoot a pic over to you, I can show you the factory diagram how it is supposed to be routed.

sure, you can send me the pic. The left side connects into the intake? and the back connects to the intake also? or T them together then put it into the intake?

 

[EclipseOwner95]

engine was half normal op temp, but no, i did not rotate the crank to TDC. does that make a difference?

Yes, the engine should be at TDC so all of the valves are closed.

 

[DeadlyScone]

Yes, the engine should be at TDC so all of the valves are closed.

So even though i do BLT at TDC when i'am boosting when driving around i will still be leaking out of that though, correct?

 

[EclipseOwner95]

So even though i do BLT at TDC when i'am boosting when driving around i will still be leaking out of that though, correct?

If you have excessive blowby yes. There will always be some air coming out of it at idle, and even more under boost, its "normal" but if your engines on the way out, it will be much worse.

 

[DeadlyScone]

If you have excessive blowby yes. There will always be some air coming out of it at idle, and even more under boost, its "normal" but if your engines on the way out, it will be much worse.

do most people have catch cans? or run it back into the intake?

 

[EclipseOwner95]

do most people have catch cans? or run it back into the intake?

Personally I think everyone should run a catch can, but thats just me, something about introducing oily residue back into the intake tract & intake manifold is not good. I'd assume "most" people leave it stock, but thats because legit catch cans cost a decent ammount of money.

And if you want it to look nice, you'll want to run braided house with AN fittings, and a small K&N filter to go on top. I have around $200 in my catch can setup. A lot of budget guys would rather spend that money on something more worth while, which is completely acceptable.

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[Groundation]

^nice setup. Is that a kit, or did you fabricate it yourself? Is there a guide to making something similar?

 

[DSMTyson]

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I really like your intercooler piping. There's no bullshit, its the shortest route, and the BOV is in the perfect spot.

Thank you for providing the idea for my next FMIC piping setup.


This helped me understand the PCV system much better. I suggest everyone reads it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

I personally will be using PCV Setup # 3 in that aritcle.

 

[WES_393]

The catch can should not be leaking air at all. It shouldn't even have a filter as it will pull in unmetered air at idle. Look up how to run a catch can, make sure the can is a sealed unit (JB Weld it shut if you have to), and then run in properly.

 

[DSMTyson]

The catch can should not be leaking air at all. It shouldn't even have a filter as it will pull in unmetered air at idle. Look up how to run a catch can, make sure the can is a sealed unit (JB Weld it shut if you have to), and then run in properly.

Not if its routed only to the VC. But yes, it should be a sealed unit.

 

[WES_393]

Not if its routed only to the VC. But yes, it should be a sealed unit.

With lines going straight to and from the VC, then yes a filter is okay. But for a catch can using the PCV, any air leaking in or out is an issue.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

^nice setup. Is that a kit, or did you fabricate it yourself? Is there a guide to making something similar?

I made it myself, its not the best, but it will work for now. I know there are kits out for our cars, or you can make it yourself.

I like the location of mine, and I don't believe there are any kits out that could utilize that location, so building my own was the only way to go.

With lines going straight to and from the VC, then yes a filter is okay. But for a catch can using the PCV, any air leaking in or out is an issue.

Thanks for the correction.

As you can see mine does go straight to and from the VC, no PCV here. And even if there was a chance of any extra air getting into the system I'm running SD so no worries. Granted it's good information for anyone running the stock air metering system.

 

[DeadlyScone]

With lines going straight to and from the VC, then yes a filter is okay. But for a catch can using the PCV, any air leaking in or out is an issue.

Thanks for the correction.

1. Just to clarify, My catch-can should not blow out/in air to/from the atmosphere?

2. I do blow oil out of my filler cap on my VC and from looking at that PCV link (thank you whoever sent that), it looks like there should be both VC PCV should be going into the catch-can and there should be a vacuum line going from it ALSO to the intake(before the turbo, after the MAF)

3. I only have 2 lines from the VC PCV ports into the catch can and there is a blue rubber plug on the bottom where from what i read should route to the intake as said before.

Please let me know, You guys are very helpful .

 

[steve]

Yes, the engine should be at TDC so all of the valves are closed.

The valves aren't all closed at TDC.

In fact, TDC guarantees that both sets of valves in cylinder 4 are open due to overlap.
This used to be a common misunderstanding and why I started suggesting using 30* ATDC so the exhaust valves are closed on cylinder 4.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

The valves aren't all closed at TDC. In fact, TDC guarantees that both sets of valves in cylinder 4 are open due to overlap. This used to be a common misunderstanding and why I started suggesting using 30* ATDC so the exhaust valves are closed on cylinder 4.

So why is it that when I do a leak down test at TDC I get accurate readings. If the exhaust valves were open on cylinder 4 I'd have 100% leakdown.

 

[steve]

So why is it that when I do a leak down test at TDC I get accurate readings. If the exhaust valves were open on cylinder 4 I'd have 100% leakdown.

If you read the cam specs you'll know why I suggest it. To perform a leak down test each cylinder must be at it's TDC compression stroke. I can't say what is going on with your car.