The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support ExtremePSI

What EGT temps does everyone run?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dsm10sec

Banned Member
145
0
Oct 14, 2004
Minneapolis, Minnesota
I was wondering what EGTs everyones getting 1g or 2g but please specify. The local DSM guru that built my car said don't go over 1400 F at WOT, but I've read a lot of people are hitting 1600 F.
 
I've learned that 1550 is a nice safe limit but I hear of others going upwards of 1650 or even higher. My car is perfectly tuned to 12.1 a/f and I only hit 1425~ish in the top of every gear.

Oh sorry, my car is a 1G with a 2.3 stroker.
 
According to Maximum Boost (which still might not be correct) timing has more of a role on egts than A/F ratio.

Obviously running lean will hike up the heat, but within the safe range timing has more of an effect on the EGTs.

With stock internals you should stick to a safe egt of about 1550* max. You can run 1600* but I dont know how long cast pistons will last like that.

-Dallas J
 
dsm10sec said:
I was wondering what EGTs everyones getting 1g or 2g but please specify. The local DSM guru that built my car said don't go over 1400 F at WOT, but I've read a lot of people are hitting 1600 F.

I normally run 1550-1625 and this is top of third. Running 20g w/660's 20psi
 
Using C16, 23psi and 21.5 degrees of timing, I see around 880 top of third gear. This is with an A/F of 12.4 to 12.5:1 with little or no knock.
 
Maybe your fuel trims are out of whack. Try to zero them out then copy your Lo setting to the high setting. You looks like your a lean or running too much boost.
 
Unless you've very seriously screwed up the tuning (to the point of the car tossing "fuel mixture" MILs), idle and cruising should be unaffected. Fuel for those are determined via the closed loop method of operation. Maybe you've just got an O2 sensor that's starting to go bad. Or perhaps a bad FPR.
 
EagleTalonRacer said:
I run soo hott my manifold glows red, im running too rich.. what should I do?

How do you know that's too hot? Have you installed an EGT gauge and measure it? How do you know you're rich and not lean (or maybe you're just fine?)? WOT or cruising?
 
My advice to you guys is, get a datalogger. It's the first thing that you guys should get. Especially if you dont know if your lean or Rich. Looks like you are frying your blocks.
 
My old setup in my 98 GSX

Greddy FMIC w/type S BOV, 50 trim, 780cc injectors, walbro 255 rewired, charged air AFPR set @ 41psi 3" turboback w/o2 eliminator DP w/atmospheric dump.

cruising @ 85 mph, i tuned it for 1000F EGTs and at the track when i went 12.4 @ 109, my EGTs were at 1450 w/timing at 26 degrees advanced. the run was on 17psi w/the occasional spike to 19-20. the turbo was internally gated.

my SAFC hi/low throttle was 30/80 and hi settings was in low/high 30s across the board.
 
EagleTalonRacer said:
I run soo hott my manifold glows red, im running too rich.. what should I do?

Lay off the boost if you dont have a logger. :rolleyes:
 
I notice that a few of you are also running high EGT's at cruise is this because of the altered air signal though your fuel convertors? I reset mine last night with my datalogger and still see 1500 deg. at 80mph. My timing is at 32 degrees advance, at cruise, no boost. Is that normal? Is my ECU advancing my timing because of the lower air signal?
 
gixrman said:
I notice that a few of you are also running high EGT's at cruise is this because of the altered air signal though your fuel convertors? I reset mine last night with my datalogger and still see 1500 deg. at 80mph. My timing is at 32 degrees advance, at cruise, no boost. Is that normal? Is my ECU advancing my timing because of the lower air signal?


WEll cruising at 80mph and seeing no boost your ecu should be operating in Closed loop. It should be bouncing back and forth between orange and barely any green. It Could be that your LO map on the AFC is set too lean for closed loop. I can cruise at 80-85mph and my egts are still in the high 1390's to low 1420's. This is part thottle driving. 18 percent throttle position.
 
i'm at about 1500 at 75mph right now but all of my fuel trims are at 139% OMG, I'm hoping to take care of some of that tonight after work lets out.
 
I've seen as high as 1050 celsius on my car. Yea that was scary. I'm pretty sure that nothing was damaged was because the car was pulling timing and it wasnt that high because of a lean condition. I figured it out to be that my 450's were over 100% injector duty cycle. I switched to 550's and everything was much better. I now see right at 900 degrees celsius at wot in my 3rd gear automatic at 21 psi with my evo 16g. ( 1998 eclipse gst spyder 4 speed )

Tyler
 
On my car, the (Westach) EGT probe is in #1 runner, and
  • exhaust manifold has heat shield in place
  • cold joint of EGT probe is in passenger compartment
This may cause my EGT readings to be a bit higher than some others here.

I don't have any specific EGT numbers for WOT, since so far I have tuned based on knock. I'm generally running
things on the rich side, due to boost creep etc. EGTs at WOT look quite reasonable under these conditions.

During cruise, I generally see EGTs between 1400 and 1550 deg F. On one recent trip, at the end of a slight uphill
grade for a couple of miles, 74MPH, it got up to 1590.

I'm sure my EGR blockoff plate is contributing to this. Not sure if it's enough to warrant putting EGR back to stock.
 
egt's are overated. You'll prolong the life of your engine by monitoring useful things like knock and timing rather then egt's. Of course if you have a dual or triple pod and need a gauge to take up space I guess that might be a reason to have a egt gauge.
For all those who are about to freak out because of what just said read this first before you say anything. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41270&highlight=egt
 
Cant open the above link. All I know is when my EGT hits 1650 the motor start shuting down.

I'm sure the fact that I suck at tunning has something to do with this. Understanding what cuases high EGT's and how to correct them is what I'm after.
 
zross1 said:
egt's are overated. You'll prolong the life of your engine by monitoring useful things like knock and timing rather then egt's. Of course if you have a dual or triple pod and need a gauge to take up space I guess that might be a reason to have a egt gauge.
For all those who are about to freak out because of what just said read this first before you say anything. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41270&highlight=egt

Yes I have a triple gauge pod, yes I tune by knock sum, timing, fuel trims, air:fuel. Yes, I have more gauges than a triple can hold. The reason I'm asking this question is because I simply don't want to fry my engine. When a dsm guru tells you not to go over 1400 wot you tend to listen.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top