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trans prep and cleanup for the Summit. the other 2 are driving LOL
 

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Painted my VC and installed it today. I am quite pleased with it.

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I can’t express to you how much better it is in person. The shine is so metallic and deep, and it really makes the engine bay pop.
 

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Getting ready to pull the trans. It wouldn’t get into any gear while running. Was able to make it home but clutch didn’t smell happy and trans fluid is glittery

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Underbody work goes well 👍
Few spots need to be cut and replaced with stainless steel sheets for forever durability (i dont ever want to do this again) and coated with:

- all cavities coated with anticorrosion base coat
- first outside layer is epoxy primer with rust converter
- second layer is anticorrosion base with body sealant to all transitions
- third layer is stonechip protection
- final layer is black coating with protection against SALT and UV rays
- all cavities is in the final coated with wax

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Trans is off. Not sure what failed. The diff was welded by the previous owner and the car is fwd I have a feeling that’s part of it. The input shaft did seem to have some play. TOB was also super loose and clunky on the fork. Found this pressure plate to flywheel bolt in there and a hole near the starter. Dunno what happened. Pressure plate, flywheel and clutch all look to be in ok condition

On another note, Nachi TOBs any good? Found it in my parts bin. Also noticed my spare trans is missing the weighted piece where the cables go if you look closely in the first pic. Thinking that piece isn’t important but let me know if I’m wrong pls

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Tried to start the car after rebuild, car cranking, sparking, but i didnt heard the fuel pump, so u manually pressurized fuel system bypassing relay in the back after rewiring fuel pump … after that i cranked again and still didnt start… cylinders are empty, so probably injectors dont get impulses ? Last year i wired injector resistor box from 1 common wire, what beep between each other, and other blanked, so i need to check, if i did it correctly for sure - any ideas, what could happen ?

EDIT: Probably stuck injectors, after few days i tried to start and it now work

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Just slightly annoyed with the headlight assembly situation I got going on. So I ordered a replacement turn signal socket for the passenger side a month ago that didnt really fit right so I had to mod that so it JUST fit enough. Then I got some new low beam bulbs a week ago and turned out that the plastic tab that the retaining wire sits on was broken on the driver side. So I thought "let me just get new headlight assemblies since im getting a set of bumper quick releases". Was searching and searching then finally found a set on ebay that pictured the turn signal socket as part of the assembly. Score, right?! Nope. Didn't come with them. So now I gotta order some new sockets because why am I going to throw in an old one and one I hacked up a bit? Maybe im a little over the top for that but yeah thats what I did today.
 
Clutch, pp and flywheel on

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Heh. You said PP.



What I did? Used Meguiars waterless wash/wax and "washed" the Talon, as well as fixed the cigarette lighter(replaced w/ new) and fixed the lights for the ashtray and lighter.
 
Underbody work goes well 👍
Few spots need to be cut and replaced with stainless steel sheets for forever durability (i dont ever want to do this again) and coated with:

- all cavities coated with anticorrosion base coat
- first outside layer is epoxy primer with rust converter
- second layer is anticorrosion base with body sealant to all transitions
- third layer is stonechip protection
- final layer is black coating with protection against SALT and UV rays
- all cavities is in the final coated with wax

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Well done that undercarriage would never rust again WOW I'm impressed good job

I bought a 1ga 90 virgin engine harnesses no cuts or damage both lower doors moldings plus I'm looking at a set of EUMD horns from a high end luxury brand they are pretty loud plus 1G 94 pedals Assembly AEM twin fire CID 4 channels and some other goodies
 
A month or so ago I started working on the car again and got it off jack stands, took the car to get tuned, ran into a couple small issues that Andy at A Star Fab was able to help sort out. Had him tune the car fairly conservatively at 18lbs of boost, made 355 hp and 305 ft/lb torque. I mostly just want to be able to enjoy the car for a bit and maybe do some more upgrades and shoot for a higher number down the road. Glad to have saved another relic from rotting away or being sent to the scrap yard.
 
Wrenched on a DSM for the first time since 2017. Recently bought 92 fwd turbo car. Filled up with fuel and found a hole in the tank. So removed said tank, found one hole them found some jb weld coving another hole.. cool. Then installed an innovate lc1 wideband. What a friggin job that was.
 
New oem tob, clip, fork window boot and pivot ball spaced with a headstud washer. Sanded the trans mating surface with my palm orbital it was crusty.. got the trans in and picked up a new set of wheels also

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Hi everyone, sorry it has been a while since I posted on here. New job, moved to a new state, etc.... But I just completed a Warning/Hazard Control Module delete in my 2G Eclipse. I updated to LED parking and tail lights and with the old Control Module I got the hyper blink... I did some research and redesign (I am an electrical engineer) and now have deleted the old control module and replaced it with a standard electronic blinker relay. Once completed, everything works great. I am working on creating an updated wiring schematic and step by step instructions to be posted on my Build Thread. Feel free to message me with questions.
 
Today I installed the OEM heatshield, after using a heat resistant spray on it.
Before that, I removed the manifold, gave everything a good cleaning as it was all gunked up with oil & durt, then installed new gaskets and self locking copper nuts.

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The reason I removed it in the first place, is that it was leaking oil past the manifold gasket on the timing side. It still had the original nuts and they were easy to remove, so it was probably loose.

So far, for around 300km it's been completely leak free, but I will need to get the valve stem seals changed as soon as possible. I can send you guys pictures of the exhaust ports, if you want to see how they look?
 

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I was going to swap out my shifter assembly for this dsm creations set but got a little surprise. I had bought an additional 3D dsm creations bushing set for my other car but used it to fix the rally art shifter. What looks like grime and dirt is what remains of the bushings. Some damage on the shifter but the 3d set cleared up any issues.


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I didn't like the look of the wires appearing through the spark plug wire cover, so I made up a back plate of aluminum and put some gold vinyl on it. I went with gold because of the intake. Try to even the color out. Ricer or ok?
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I didn't like the look of the wires appearing through the spark plug wire cover, so I made up a back plate of aluminum and put some gold vinyl on it. I went with gold because of the intake. Try to even the color out. Ricer or ok?
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Honestly the older I get the less I care about “ricer” or not. If I like it, it stays. IDC if it’s ricer or not.

I feel like that’s what cost our platform in the long run. Look at how absurdly popular Hondas are because they leaned into the “rice” stuff.
 
I was going to swap out my shifter assembly for this dsm creations set but got a little surprise. I had bought an additional 3D dsm creations bushing set for my other car but used it to fix the rally art shifter. What looks like grime and dirt is what remains of the bushings. Some damage on the shifter but the 3d set cleared up any issues.
Funny I also redid my bushings on my spare shifter and base this weekend. Still need to install it and redo bushings in the engine bay.
*All DCP bushings, and a B&M shifter.
 
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