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D A M...... :oops: you are just as hard on stuff as I am! ROFL
My work today:
It got stalled due to lack of hardware for the water pump and I had forgot today was a Holiday.

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Some of yall who have been following my build thread have seen my adapter i made to keep my current 4" intake tube. For those who haven't here is the original one i made a few weeks back.
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It worked perfectly but was tight since its basically right in front of the lower rad hose. I made a couple revisions of this until i finally got one that i'm super happy with.
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Took it for a drive today for some data logging but my front O2 still won’t read anything. About to just put a newer wideband in to simulate it and call it a day

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Running errands and trying to stack up the break in miles. Kevin Jewer has the SD tune dialed in! It really is a joy to drive with the the intake/cams/ exhaust/turbo. The twin resonators and Vibrant street performance muffler have the exhaust really dialed in. Nice deep tone. 🤘
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finished converting my 96 to 98 body. i used duplicolor rattle can paint, and upol clear coat and it came out great. I really had to wet sand the heck out of it, but this rear bumper use to be red

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also finished installing the small 16g, but this cx racing side mount j pipe was junk! can not fit the aftermarket intake back under the j pipe to the inlet housing so had to run a stock intake, then the j pipe is way too long and needs to be cut. this kit is garbage

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Fixed the idle surge and some boost leaks. Now she idles nice and steadily(at least steady as possible with these BC cams) and AFRs are perfect. Just gotta tinker a little more and throw on the tps sensor.

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Also did this. Don’t have bolts though so gonna wait til tomorrow to bolt it up and make a sound clip. Stoked.
 

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Yay!

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This was before I plugged the new TPS back in(so there's a little stumble/burble when I lightly tap the gas in the video), and the clear cam cover is still being savagely beaten within an inch of its life by the cam gear bolts so that's the rattling/weird noise you're hearing. But man, so much better than open 3" downpipe. Lol. Now my daughter doesn't flee in terror every time I start it up.


Also did more, more details(will eventually be) in the build thread but cliff notes is I installed the exhaust, calibrated/adjusted/installed new TPS sensor, fixed boost gauge and tucked various gauge wires in the interior, then fought and cursed with this POS gauge cluster. LOL. Was a fun time. After the new TPS was installed, this thing responds to throttle input like a bike. Instant, crisp, clear. Intoxicating.
 
Got the pump in the hanger, wired all up and ready to go. I sent my sending unit (float) to Desert Classic Parts to have it fixed before I put everything together so heres to hopefully having a working fuel gauge 😁. Cars still at paint so onto redoing the driveshaft next.

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Got the pump in the hanger, wired all up and ready to go. I sent my sending unit (float) to Desert Classic Parts to have it fixed before I put everything together so heres to hopefully having a working fuel gauge 😁. Cars still at paint so onto redoing the driveshaft next.

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Awesome!
Hey, just a heads up on that original 4 pin quick connector, it may have a less than ideal connection through it.
I bumped mine while running and heard the tone of the pump change! Bad news and there's no reason for it with crimp rings at the sending unit. Solder that connection and know it's 100% 🤘
 
Running errands and trying to stack up the break in miles. Kevin Jewer has the SD tune dialed in! It really is a joy to drive with the the intake/cams/ exhaust/turbo. The twin resonators and Vibrant street performance muffler have the exhaust really dialed in. Nice deep tone. 🤘
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Would love to hear it
Edit: Heard. Sounds great!
 
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Narrowed down why the tach doesn't work, and tested it. Tach works now. :)

Did the first oil change after breaking the bearings in too. For some reason there's some milky white substance collecting on just the oil cap, and nowhere else. Wonder if it's the gasket or if the engine needs more breather/catchcan action. Oil and cams and everything else was fine.
 
Well got the driveshaft all apart except the ball bearing holder gotta watch youtube again couldn’t remember how LOL Get that done and she’ll be ready for some powdercoat.

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I need to do that exact same thing with my spare driveshaft. Nice! Powder coat will make it "shiney" ;)
What are the Goodyear slicks bolted to...???? :hmm::cool:
 
Well got the driveshaft all apart except the ball bearing holder gotta watch youtube again couldn’t remember how LOL Get that done and she’ll be ready for some powdercoat.
I need to do that exact same thing with my spare driveshaft. Nice! Powder coat will make it "shiney" ;)
What are the Goodyear slicks bolted to...???? :hmm::cool:
Yes sir figured might as well get it done. Haha just on a set of wheels sitting next to my dads mid to late 70’s dart swinger drag build. 😎
 
Finally got back on the Talon today.

Some might remember my previous post about the mount location for the fuel tank being half gone. Today I fabbed up a replacement.

Keep in mind I am neither a fabricator nor am I a very good welder.

First I marked and cut out the rear part perpendicular to the road.

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I made a template of it, slightly enlarged it, cut it out, drilled a few holes to use as "spot welds" and welded it in place.

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Once I had that I started fabrication of the mount piece. I already had some measurements and just had to figure the bends out.

Again mind you I am not a fabricator and I'm not set up for metal fab.

End result of bending with using nothing more than pliers, hammers, and some pieces of wood.

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I did a test fit before I called it for the night.

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All that is left is to mount the bolts for the tank/fuel cell. I'm going to give them a small triangular gusset on either side of each mount, then I just need to weld the piece into place.

Due to the shape I'll have some minor work to do on the ends of it to keep debris out, but hopefully by tomorrow I'll be able to mount the cell and do some more configuration on my fuel system so I can get a few modifications done to the cell once I know exactly what needs done
 

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I woke mine up after a very long time in storage. Been put on the back burner while ive been messing around with bmws for the last 5 or 6 years. 46k mile gsx ive had for about 13 years. No longer going to neglect her and already got some upgrades on the way! Excited to be back into the dsm scene!

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Narrowed down why the tach doesn't work, and tested it. Tach works now. :)

Did the first oil change after breaking the bearings in too. For some reason there's some milky white substance collecting on just the oil cap, and nowhere else. Wonder if it's the gasket or if the engine needs more breather/catchcan action. Oil and cams and everything else was fine.
Are you e85?

In the winter condensation makes my catchcans collect quick even on regular gas and a stock Juke. I imagine "some" of thatwould be normal if youve had colder weather
 
Are you e85?

In the winter condensation makes my catchcans collect quick even on regular gas and a stock Juke. I imagine "some" of thatwould be normal if youve had colder weather

I wish. Closest E85 pump to me is like 50mins-1hr from me.

Someone on the forums said it was from starting and shutting it off without really driving it and it being cooler outside. Which makes a ton of sense. As it was 40* some days and I only let it start long enough to warm up and diagnose some things.
 
I wish. Closest E85 pump to me is like 50mins-1hr from me.

Someone on the forums said it was from starting and shutting it off without really driving it and it being cooler outside. Which makes a ton of sense. As it was 40* some days and I only let it start long enough to warm up and diagnose some things.
Yes it does... i did this video with mu stock juke to show what cold weather recirculates if you dont have a good can. Sorry its on tik tok...

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Didn't get as much accomplished as I'd hoped. Was fighting the welder a little, plus didn't get started til late, and forgot I has another obligation.

Anyway I welded some nuts in two holes in the hatch. The nuts were built into part of the structure that I was replacing. Not sure their original usage, but I have a plan for them.

I then figured out where the studs needed to go and burnt them in. I cut out some gussets and started welding them in. I was fighting burning through and after several attempts I realized the knob was loose and I never turned the heat back. LOL

Anyway my welds got better but they're still on the ugly side.

Pictures show what I started with vs what I built.
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Tomorrow I plan on getting it welded into place. Once that's done I'll get the 1GB rear conversion done up.

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I greeted new arrivals for the head build today and will be through all of next week!
I picked out a donor head. It needs to go to the machine shop when the rest of the goodies (which is basically everything) get here. It needs surfaced, seats touched up and mated to new Supertech valves and Kiggly springs installed with new seals and Manley 6* locks. I did a little work on the teardrop and took out a little rough casting on the edges of the valve chambers (not much). :thumb:
Dam, I forgot to add that I need the headbolt holes enlarged to 12mm while it's at the shop. Then I will install her titanium exhaust studs and cams when it gets back home.

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