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What Causes Rod Knock?

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Aproductions

10+ Year Contributor
2,123
50
Aug 11, 2009
Allentown, Pennsylvania
Honestly what is with these motors (420a)?

My buddy had one and it got rod knock and now I got one and it has rod knock too.

I have also seen a million videos and threads with the same situation. Why do these motors develop this all the time it seems?

Also anything I should look out for in my build and teardown? If you look at my avatar and my last picture added, I have already removed the motor. Now I just have to take it apart!

Thanks
 
Low oil, or made a hard turn and starved the bearings, as these pans dont havel baffles. The design is a little flawed in that respect, however, most of the kids that see this problem, is due to their thinking its a race car when its not.. and the ARP info above, is horribly incorrect. I fail to see how ARP studs are warping heads..

Now, if you buy new head botls, then you need to shave 3-4 threads off the one bolt that you choose to put into the rare drive side corner, as 95-96 had an issue with the block not being drilled deep enuff.

Id also suggest going with a mechanical timing tensioner upgrade.

Bottom line, drive it like the economy car that it is, and keep it well lubed, you wont have an issue. Drive it like its a 240 drift car, expect rod bearings to go.. Thats why when we build them, we go with IJ baffle setups.
 
^^

Agreed.... I've had a bunch of 420A (well... dodge neons) powered cars and never had this issue with them; but they were also daily drivers and maintained.
 
They are pricey, so it depends.. what are your goals with ## car? If its just a daily.. then id say dont bother. Just keep it well lubed and dont nascar around turns.
 
I like to NASCAR around turns damnit. And I'd like to know when all this rod knock and such is supposed to happen, so I know when to watch for it :p The trick is to stay on top of your car...sneaky rascals. For instance, I just found out I have an oil leak from somewhere on the back side of the motor on mine, so for right this second, just gotta keep checking the oil until I can get it fixed. Same with my truck...currently has a rear main seal leak, and I can't afford that repair yet, so we just babysit the oil a tad. Nothing absolutely horrible, but shit happens. It's the beauty of vehicle ownership. Something is going to break LOL.
 
rod knock for these typically happens when your 1: Low on oil. 2, when you make hard right turns ( i belive), it can starve the pick up, esp if your low on oil.

Theres no way to fight it if your going to turn hard all the time, short of getting the ~400$ IJ scraper and baffle setup.
 
i remember on my stock motor when i turned hard right i could here a really loud tick in the head but then would go away after a straighten out, it never did it on left turns. i never had rod knock tho but i checked my oil EVERY time i got in my car.
 
I am not wanting to drive my N/T like a race car, because I simply know that isn't possible -.- hah. But I do plan on really putting effort into this car, and I sure don't want this to happen to me. So my question is, would I only need a crank scraper to protect me from this? And what is best teflon or steel?
Also how hard is the install?
Mitsubishi

^Best place to get them?
 
yes thats the place, and dont get teflon, you dont need it. Get the ~350$ one.
Crank scraper, Windage tray , baffles and trap doors, is what you need. Id stud your oil pan bolts too.
 
i think the main problem is people abuse the hell outta the engine and dont keep it mantained.

420a is a good engine if you take care of it.

i think the main problem is people abuse the hell outta the engine and dont keep it mantained.

420a is a good engine if you take care of it.
 
Never had an issue with my old 95 N/T. And I made plenty of hard interstate loop right turns.

I don't think those are the turns they mean LOL It would only happen to me if I took a 90 degree turn at about 45 or pulled the e-break around corners. People abuse the stock motors with high milage like nothing will happen then it does and they don't understand why.
 
Also 1 thing to note, don't rely on the oil light to come on when your getting low on oil. I had a valve cover leak that I didnt realize was as bad as it got (since it leaked on the back side of the VC), anyways, turned sharp right and saw the light come on. Drove to the autoparts store to get some oil, only to find out that I needed about 3.5qts. Oil didn't even register on the stick when I pulled it.
 
I don't think those are the turns they mean LOL It would only happen to me if I took a 90 degree turn at about 45 or pulled the e-break around corners. People abuse the stock motors with high milage like nothing will happen then it does and they don't understand why.

I'm talking 55-60 MPH around an interstate loop. :D
 
Also 1 thing to note, don't rely on the oil light to come on when your getting low on oil. I had a valve cover leak that I didnt realize was as bad as it got (since it leaked on the back side of the VC), anyways, turned sharp right and saw the light come on. Drove to the autoparts store to get some oil, only to find out that I needed about 3.5qts. Oil didn't even register on the stick when I pulled it.


But it kept running right? Had the same thing happen to me on my old Gs. Put some oil in and she kept on going LOL. 420a is great for a dd.
 
For instance, I just found out I have an oil leak from somewhere on the back side of the motor on mine, so for right this second, just gotta keep checking the oil until I can get it fixed.
You need a head gasket.

Had my 420a for about 6 years. Has always been leaking oil, and have always added more oil.
So do you.


Join the club- mine's been leaking since 2002 when I bought the car. I just keep adding oil as needed (about a quart every 500-700 miles of daily driving....it doesn't lose a drop on long trips) and every now and again I'll flush out the recovery tank because that's where any oil in the cooling system ends up.
 
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