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What are you're MAFT settings??

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1993eclipseGS

20+ Year Contributor
3,751
76
Aug 30, 2002
NE, Pennsylvania
Ok, I'm having alot of trouble getting this car tuned, And i'm getting very fed up with it. I made some adjustments today and now it wont really boost in 1st gear :mad:

92 tsi fwd 5spd

I have 680's,255lph fuel pump,fmic,2 1/2" exhaust, to4b turbo, ETC ETC.. Look in profile for complete list of mods, I'm not listing them all on here.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone else had similar mods to mine and had gotten their maft tuned really good so the car is running great. My car is running pretty bad and I would just like to try someone else's settings and go from there to see if that works. If you can help me out, Please feel free to post. If you have negative coments.. Dont post in this thread because I dont want to hear you.

Thanks alot.
 
Stock cams?? How much boost are you running?? What is your base timing?? What is your Base Fuel Pressure?? Is your ecu chipped?? This would help a lot. Also, when do you hit full boost? I will try to help you out as much as possible, just need to know those things. Oh, and how much knock are you getting and where?
 
Stock cams??

- Yup.

How much boost are you running??

- I believe it's only at about 12lbs.

What is your base timing??

- I'm not exactly sure? I never messed with it.

What is your Base Fuel Pressure??

- Right now I do not have a afpr, So I did not adjust that?

Is your ecu chipped??

- The ecu I have now is not chipped.

when do you hit full boost?

- I'm not exactly sure in 3rd gear, but 1st and 2nd it's alittle hard to hit full boost even if I take it to the redline.

how much knock are you getting and where?

- My knock comes really bad at the top of 3rd gear is when it starts. I get a full 43counts. But my timing does not go down. I never stayed on the gas to see what happends. As soon as I see knock, I quick let off because I dont want nothing bad to happen.

I had the car boosting alittle under 10psi in 1st, But I made some adjustments on the maft and then it stopped boosting in 1st gear, I could get a few psi. But If I have the boost set at a certain psi. Shouldent it reach that psi, Even in first gear?

Ever since I put the whole fuel system and translator in, Is when it went down hill, Only because I am new at tuning. Before I got my fuel mods, I was able to get the tires to break loose at the top of 1st and 2nd, Now they wont even start to break loose even in first.

If you could help me at all, That you be greatly appreciated.
Actually, Here are my translator setting right now, This way you know where they are, And maybe you could tell just by these numbers what i'm doing wrong :

Aux: 1
Base: 8
Idle: 7
Mid: C
Wot: C

If you or anyone else can help me out, Please post.

Thanks alot. :)
 
The MAFT you have is version 2.0+ right? If it is, I would say set it to:

AUX: 1
BASE: A
Idle: 1
WOT: F

The cars tend to run REALLY rich up top for some reason. Try those settings out and let me know. Also, please try to check your base timing just to make sure it is on. You might have to lean the base out all the way to D or E, but you really need a logger to check it out.
 
My base setting is similar to yours only I'm running EVO 8 560's and a auto FP regulator (suppose to be around 43 without the vacuum line). My personal experience is that my fuel pump is overunning the FP regulator so I'm having to compensate for it with bigger injectors on the MAFT just to get the trims around 100. I had to set it at the 610 cc setting when I had the stock regulator (37 psi) just to get the trims around 100 too. That's with a 190 lph only, you have a 255 so your definitely overruning your FP regulator. Try setting it for bigger injectors, just keep an eye on your trims. Any boost or vacuum leaks really makes tuning the MAFT very difficult, I know I had to track all my down before I got her to run decent. I'm running 18 psi with my setup and I just started fine tuning and now she hauls even better since I got the knock below 4 count. Good luck. :)
 
I have similar setup.50 trim agp RS49 ,650 FICS,afpr set at stock pressure,supra tt pump.
I am on stock intercooler though and running around 10 to 12 psi.91 octane best we got here basically.

I have logger MMCD and just today got scanmaster in my car.I think its easier maybe to tune with the scanmaster but never did actually log stuff just watched things in real time on my logger.I can use the logger and scanmaster at same time if I want they have that capability to hook logger off it.

I seem to have knock around 17 third gear runs and have 02 around .88 to .90.So might be a bit lean,hard to be sure without wideband that will be my next purchase.

I have my maft at 7 base and aux 1 that is correct setting for my 650s.I seem to have mid 100 and high 100 and idle at 117 think it was.I have my maft two or three clicks up on idle guess could try another one to get low trims closer to 100.I don't understand as other day pretty sure mid was 117 and high was 100 but this was on logger.

I have found if I go much richer on the wot then the car starts breaking up bad,not fuel cut don't think but likely rich misfire.I might try another click up and see what happens,seems to be a fine line although the new maft chip that I assume you have ,I just put it in also lets you tweak like an safc at different points so that might help.

I see about 15 degrees of timing at wot in third but wondering why my logger and scanmaster shows about 15 at idle shouldn't it show more like 5 to 8? So maybe its too far advanced.Going to try to play with retarding it shortly and see if can run more boost.Also have new eprom ecu and chip with phantom knock elimination code,fuel cut delete ,etc.
I have bad phantom knock off idle sometimes its random and might have leaking caps in my ecu never checked original one.Hoping next week to have everything good to go.I had other problems with my new 50 trim.I mistakenly thought using the turbo ring gasket was a good thing and it split ,lucky didn't break and sat sideways in turbo exhaust inlet badly blocking flow and blew out my new copper gasket.When it did this I had very very slow poor boosting.I got super thick stainless gasket off slowboy racing and took out that pos ring.Also had pinched off intercooler lower pipe.I replaced wtih flex rad hose and it seems to be working for now.
I have stock sidemount so realize likely can't run much boost but thought the 50 trim would run cooler at say 18 than the stock one so not sure why can't run that.
Have to play a bit more.
So not sure what to tell you about your settings.You can't seem to go that rich and you can't seem to go that lean or you hit problems each way.And some say you can get bad rich knock.I think this is possible and if you have huge knock it might be rich knock .

Anyway good luck.I also had problems with my ignition coils they are new and have new power transistor also.And new wires,plugs and fuel filter.I am running 6's right now but have the 7s and some iridiums to play with also.I was worried at lower boosts and around town that would foul out the bpr7es plugs so went back to brp6es.


For phantom knock problems the new chips have code to eliminate it off boost but also did buy some new 3 g lifters and have new knock sensor to install sooner or later.
I can get 43 counts just winging throttle in neutral and that can't be a good thing.
 
Mackzero said:
The MAFT you have is version 2.0+ right? If it is, I would say set it to:

AUX: 1
BASE: A
Idle: 1
WOT: F

The cars tend to run REALLY rich up top for some reason. Try those settings out and let me know. Also, please try to check your base timing just to make sure it is on. You might have to lean the base out all the way to D or E, but you really need a logger to check it out.


The maft is the new version. I'm going to try the settings when I wake up. Is that what your's are at? How does it run?

Also, How exactly do I check my base timing? You adjust it with the cas, Correct? Dont I use a timing light, Or am I thinking or something totally diff? Either way, I can get it done. I have a datalogger by the way.

Thanks alot everyone so far, For the tips and advice.
 
Well, I couldent wait until I woke up to try the settings. Nothing like tuning 4:30am in pajamas. OMG

Here are the settings I have now:

Aux: 1
Base:A
Idle: 6 <--I tried backing it back up to 1, But the idle got very blup blup blup sounding like it wanted to stall out. when i blip the throttle and let it go back down, it wanted to die out.
Mid: C
Wot: F

It still does not build boost in 1st gear though? The other gears seemed to build boost faster with these settings. 2nd gear seemed to pull alot harder then it did before I used these settings. I'm just not sure what the problem could be in 1st gear now?

Here is a log from my car at idle.

RPM: 968
INJP: 1.79
O2-R: 0.74
TPS: 8.9 (I didnt have my gas on the pedal though, I dont think?)
TIMA: 12 degrees
O2-F: 3.49v

FTRL: 139.8%
FTRM: 101.5%
FTRH 100.0%
FTO2: 132.0 % (This fluctuates while I drive though)

The fuel trims pretty much stay the same way when i'm on the gas and at wot.

Now, Before I messed with the settings, Like I said in my 1st post. The car did infact build boost, But not full boost. Now, It just doesnt really want to spool up in 1st gear. Also, When just giving it alittle gas at idle, And letting off.. I can hear my bov release air alittle bit, So I am almost positive I hafto tighten it down. I thought maybe in 1st gear, The bov was staying open or something and not allowing it to build boost, I really do not know?

I look forward to reading you're reply's, As you're new settings seemed to make my car pull better in 2nd gear already. It was 4:30 am pitch black and fog, So I wasent about to go wot in every gear :)

Thanks again.
 
Your mid and high look fine.Your idle well mine is about 117 yesterday ltrim and think have dial up two or three clicks richer to the right of straight up.Will check again.I have my base at 7 and aux at 1 recommended setting for the 650s.I am getting some knock wot so will check that again today and see .88 to .90 on 02 full throttle wot third.Knock of 17 on scanmaster and got around 15 degrees timing wot top of third.

Your mid looks a bit lean now but hard to say as every car is a bit different.
Not sure why lots of cars have high ltrims think maybe leaking shaft seals or other vacumm leaks.I have leaking shaft seals.Might be from dead time on injectors .You can adjust for that in chips and you are almost at end of range for idle think at 6.Pretty sure it only goes about another couple per cent richer.Still if it idles then no big deal.

As for first gear spool up if your turbo is good and no oil leaking out the seals and car isn't pig rich and doubt it would be from your high and mid trims then likely problem with exhaust leaks not spinning it up.Do you have good studs and is your turbo to manifold gasket not blown?

I guess the old boost leaks can also cause slow spool but think exhaust not getting in there properly is it.It was on my car.Also when I start going too rich on wot dial the car starts bucking and sputtering at relatively low rpm don't think its fuel cut but think its rich blow out or something like that. I dial it leaner and it goes away. I would think your car would run pretty good near straight up maye a click lower or higher.You need to check knock now at wot .You won't hurt the car going wot especially at like 10psi or so ,the car has safety systems with the knock retard and I have got 43 counts lots and still engine is ok although you don't want to keep getting 43 counts at wot!! But its not that easy to get zero at least on the gas we get up here it seems.I haven't played with timing yet either might try retarding a bit more.See what that does.But as I said getting new ecu and chip will be set for 650 injectors ,no fuel cut,phantom knock elimination code it should really help my car.

So again doubt you have too rich and the mid dial is the one they say affects spool up.You can try leaning it more but you might get more low boost knock.And of course you can tweak mixture at different places if you have the new upgrade chip..2.01 I got mine a few days ago.Sometimes I just wish I had an safc and still might get one if can't get my car running the way I want it to.

So if you lean down the maf more and you don't get boost in 1st something else is the reason.Turbos are pretty simple..you step on gas the turbo spins up.Not much in there to mess up!!
And also a bigger turbo will for sure spool up slower than a smaller stock 14b.My 50 trim can take a bit but thats the price you pay for the extra power when it does spool up.To me in a standard car where you can just downshift it works out ok.

Also you have a boost controller.If you set it too low it seems to take a bit longer to spool up.Oh and you need to make sure you wastegate is staying totally closed.Some need some pretension or it could be sticking a bit.You need it to not open until you want it to.

You have a logger like to see your logs when you get it runnning right.I just need to get or at least borrow a wideband and do some playing with that.
 
Your idle is too lean. You need to try to figure out why it won't idle at a richer setting. You need to have it at around 4-6 I am pretty certain. :thumb:

To check you timing, just go to www.vfaq.com and look at the steps to do your car.
I have a 90 and what I do is:

Warm the car to operating temp. 192 deg or so.

Hook up your timing light set for a 4 cyl motor.

Find the timing plug up by the pass. side firewall. Take the cover off and ground the pin inside with an aligator clamp set.

Look at your timing. It should hover around -5 BTDC on your timing cover.


ALSO, if you are not chipped..... You need to adjust your base idle screw on top of the Throttle body. I believe the stock idle is 750. Mine is set for 950 because of the Fidanza flywheel being so light.

Adjust your idle while the timing wire is on there, then adjust your timing. Just try to get them both right on if possible.

I think you will have a lot easier time with the fueling then. :thumb:
 
For my idle, When I had it adjusted like I said, To get it there, I clicked it to the right. When I went to click it back to the left, Up to one.. It started to idle worse. The car builds a few psi of boost in first, But still not 10psi. I'm getting 43 counts of knock at wot in 3rd gear so I let off. It feels like the boost builds quick, but it feels like something is holding it back. When I had my small 16g without even an exhaust or fuel mods, the tires would break loose up to of first and second. Now first gear just feel's alot slower. :confused:
 
I did some test and tuning on my car today.It should be simple but apparently not.I had my maf at 7 base,aux 1 and idle is at six now also.I still think have a ltrims around 110.Have to recheck.Car does idle though ok.I made runs with wot at like straight up and still had like 17 counts of knock.I tried it up another click and knock went down but the car starts bucking as soon as you floor it with the maft at one click rich.WTF?? I lean it back down no sputtering don't think fuel cut think rich misfire.injector duty cycles aren't going to zero when this happens and duty cycles were high . I was trying to run 15 psi on my 50trim.Timing was around 15 but when was leaner and not sputtering was getting counts of 43 just like you.I then tried turning down timing..just guessed how much lower I turned it down for now and not sure yet if it helps much.
I am wondering if my el cheapo 91 is partly responsible.It seems to work fine in my na cars but might not be so good in my turbo.Think will try more expensive 92 but all gas here might be 91 now haven't checked lately.

I have knock off idle too.Again hoping my new eprom ecu will fix that.I am seriously thinking water injection system and of course need a better fmic.And installing my new knock sensor and new lifters can't hurt >I suspect lifters for some of my knock.I get 43 counts just revving it up fast in neutral.

I guess can try to run down to 10psi again and play with timing a bit more.See how it goes.
 
Looks like we are both having the same problems.

Mackzero : I am still on you're settings. I can now build about 5 psi in 1st gear, But at 5psi i'm already at redline. What do you think could be wrong here?

The car pulls hard in 2nd and 3rd, Really hard. And the boost is only at about 13psi, So i'm sure once I raise the boost, That should make it pull ALOT harder, Correct? Being the boost is so low for the size turbo it is. I just need to figure out what is wrong with the 1st gear boost and then go from there?

FTRL is still at 139.8%


How about the mid knob? I read the booklet and it had said that the mid knob is what controls slow/fast spool up?

Hopefully I can figure it out soon, Anymore more advice from anyone is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again, You've really helped me out so far! :thumb: :)
 
That is still too lean, try turning up the MID knob a click and the idle up a click or two also. You need to have the trim at 100-120. You don't want the ecu to be compensating too much. Anyway, if you are knocking 43 counts, the ecu is pulling back as much timing as it can and that will definately cause a complete loss of power at lower boost levels. What was your knock count if you do a log from a stop to the top of first?? Check that out and get back to me. :thumb: I still think you are running too lean though, which would result in knock and timing getting pulled which = NO power.
 
Ok, I just logged a run from 1st through 3rd gear WOT and a bit of 4th, I cant upload the log but i will give you rpm points and what everything was at.

First, My maft settings are as follows now.

Aux: 1
Base: A - Turned to the right to get to A.
Idle: 4 - Turned to the right 4 clicks to get there.
Mid: E - 2 clicks to the left to get there.
Wot: E - 1 click left to get there I believe.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIRST GEAR from 1000 rpms to 5281rpms : Built about 5psi of boost only.

Knock : 0 all the way through 1st, No knock.

At 3875rpms I had 34 degree TIMA. At 5251rpms I was seeing 32 Degree TIMA.

The fuel trims in first were at :

FTRL: 139.8%
FTRM: 102.3%
FTRH: 100.0%
FT02: 100.0% @ 5281rpm. Cycled between 100 and 167% throughout rpm range.
MAFS : 679.3hz @ 5281rpm.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SECOND GEAR WOT:

Fuel trims stayed the same again, But FT02 dipped down to 96.0% @3593rpms then went right back to 100% until I shifted at 5218 with 0 knock.

Second gear at 3968 it says I got 45degrees TIMA but it says my TPS was at 8.9% So it must have been when I shifted from first and just started on the gas again?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THIRD GEAR WOT : 4500rpm highest I went I got 39 counts of knock and shifted to 4th.

Knock: 40 counts @ 4375rpms and timing went down to 13 degrees
MAFS: 937.2hz @ 4500rpm

Fuel trims stayed the same as 1st gear, Except the FT02 stayed consistant at 100.0%
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I wish there was a way to upload this log, It would be alot easier. I'm using MMCD software. The above log and information may be enough to find out what is wrong? I tried to post where I was seeing the problems at. 2nd gear does pull pretty hard and the boost is only at about 13psi. I cannot build more then about 5 psi in 1st gear though.

Thanks so much for sticking with this thread and helping me out with this, I know if you didnt post I would be with my old settings running alot worse then it is now.

Hopefully you could find something with the info I have given you.

Thanks again. :) :thumb: :)
 
Very similar to mine.those trims don't mean much and mid and high and low only matter for off wot driving think actuallly off throttle or very mild throttle. I get almost identical problems.Get high knock counts when I lean out wot.I can lower knock counts by richening but then get sputtering bad at maybe 4000 up think its worse wot.I can fix the sputtering by going leaner but then the knock comes back.I tried reduced timing but its cold and I am lazy and only moved it by hand back a bit and not sure how much exactly am at now maybe under 0 btdc.Car felt pretty good leaner but the timing is only around 15 and that high knock counts must be making car go into low octane tables I would think.

Darn these cars.So not sure what to do.Everyone is saying boost leak ..boost leak.and they might be right.My car does spool but might be a bit slow but it will definitely easily hit the 15 psi or so had it up to today.It idlles ok but has high low trims like you and I have my idle at 6 I think or 5 for sure and thnk they are still a bit over 100. like 115.

I don't watch 02 trims they seem to move too fast and they go 100 as soon as you give it much throttle .AT wot they don't affect anything.

So I can't understand why if I richen up the maft and my knock goes away then the sputtering happens so thats no good and if I lean it the sputtering goes away and the knock happens.Can't win right now.

Darn new eprom ecu better show up next few days.IF the phantom knock code in my new chip works at least see how much actual is still there.I can try gallon of xylene to couple gallons of gas and see what happens to my knock.I also might try another gas statiion been going to cheapest one with 91 octane.Think you can get 92 octane at esso or shell.We have gasohol here too but think its not so great in our cars so not sure if should bother they might have 93.

I have to install my new 3 g lifters and new knock sensor..that would at least rule out those things as possible knock causers and something gives me 43 counts just revving it at idle.

I tried bypassing fuel pressure solenoid today some people said it cured their knock.Didn't seem to help mine.I also deleted pcv valve and did that a few weeks ago and seemed to have no knock but my knock is back now so that couldn't have done much .I vent thru a catch can now not into intake.

Well guess we can all report when we make some progress. So for logs maybe just log
rpm and 02 ,i know its not wideband but just curious ,knock and tps and see how things look.Also for me check if you go richer do you get the sputtering same as I do with just a few clicks up.Maybe we both have mysterious boost leaks.
 
AL92 you definately should put that new knock sensor and lifters in there. The new lifters are a lot better than stock ones! That would be the first thing I would do, and get that chipped ecu in there also, I am sure it will help out a ton.

1993eclipseGS try richening up your mid knob a bit more, maybe the idle another click or two to the right also. As soon as you get your trims where they need to be, then we can tune your rpm based WOT settings, which will help you get rid of that knock in your WOT pulls. What exact turbo do you have again? which manifold? And have you checked for any boost leaks?? I think that was allready asked, but I am just making sure. :thumb:
 
AL92: When I first put my injectors in and had my b16g, The car would sputter and 'break up' like crazy, It was running super rich, I just leaned out the WOT knob a few clicks and the sputter went away. I did not have knock then either, And I was at 20psi.


Mackzero: I have the newest SBR manifold, The runners I only cleaned up and polished. The turbo is from bullseye-power.com It is the To4b v-trim, Internally gated. I heard that it wont feel to good at this low of boost? As for boost leaks, I have double checked and tightened all of my IC clamps, I am getting 15 vac though.

Also, My father and I were going to time my car today with a timing light, But noticed that the thing on the lower timing belt cover were gone, I'm sure you know what i'm talking about. He said you cant time it with them not there, Because they are what tell you the timing or something? Then I just remembered the guy that put my motor together at told me about the lower timing belt cover also, he said he had to set the cas without using those marks since they were gone? So I guess he did it by listening or something? But either way.. The car ran great before I started doing the fuel mods, Thats when it went down hill, Once I started tuning.

So, For idle, You're telling me I hafto turn it another click or two to the right, Which would be richening it up some more? And also click the mid knob to the right(Richening it up) some more? If I clicked the Mid knob, I was clicking it to the left, Thinking it would lean the car out more for quicker spool up, See I might have the whole conception wrong.

As for the fuel trims, The only one I need to fix it the FTRL which is at 139.8%, Correct? So that would mean I hafto richen up the idle until that trim goes to as close to 100% as I can get it right?

I look at my autometer a/f gauge, So when that stick on the last green led, I think it is running super rich at idle, I'm guessing it's really not, And it's not all that accurate right? So I will just keep richening the idle knob until my 139.8% goes to 100% ?

Thanks again :thumb:
 
Well you need to adjust the idle AND mid knob to get that LFT to move if I remember correctly. It is VERY important that you get a new lower timing cover so you can make certain that your timing marks are all lined up. Cams and everything else. Even though the car ran good before, doesn't mean it will run good now with the bigger turbo on the car. If your timing is off even a few degrees, it can make the difference between a little knock and NO knock. AND MOST OF ALL.... DO NOT trust that A/F guage they are more of a "flashy" light. A normal car runs 14.7:1 Stoich. Our cars usually run best around 10.8-11.0:1 on pump gas (WOT of course), which would read rich on that guage more than likely. I would take that thing out of the car and sell it to a Honda kid. :)

IF you knew that your timing marks were on, which they should be if the guy put the motor together right, then you could remove the cam gear cover and check the timing with a variable light. Set the light to the timing you want and point it at the center of the cam gears. When the timing is right on the cam gears timing marks will line up with each other. :thumb:
 
I richened the Idle knob and the mid knob up 2 clicks to the right. I went for a good ride and seen the highest of 23counts of knock in I believe 3rd gear for only a breif moment. I went WOT 1st through some of 4th. The LFT Is still stuck there, But moved down to 130 while going wot up top.. I might dc my battery so the trims are all 100% ? Or would that be a bad idea?
I finally seen what I think was 10lbs of boost in 1st gear. Do you think it was running to lean in 1st and not allowing me to boost?
Also, My oil feedline is alot longer then a normal SS oil feed line and thicker too. I just got my new original SS oil feed line in today(The original one came with a hole in it so I hadto use a replacement one I found.) The one on there now isnt meant for what I'm using it for, I was thinking it may be taking longer to get oil to the turbo or something? I'll hafto change that also.

So, The only fuel trim I hafto work on is the LFT, As soon as I get that to 100%, I can turn the boost up more, So the turbo is in it's efficency range, Right? Then.. As you said, We could go to the fine tuning? I have no idea how to do that so if you don't mind, I'd really appreciate any help you can give me.

Thanks :D :thumb: :D
 
maft v1.3 here

I was having a hard time with my maft, it's been on for about a week. Played with it forever finally set the base for injector size and left everything else at zero and it runs so much better.

sometimes you can over complicate things is the moral.

dont worry read everything you will get it.
 
My oil feed line was custom made and is bigger and slightly longer than most, but it does not hurt anything. Yeah, why don't you try unpluging your battery to reset the trims. Turn the idle up to 6 before you restart the car also. Let it warm up and then go drive it. And I wouldn't worry about getting the LFT at 100 before you turn up the boost. Turn it up to 16-18 and tune away it shouldn't hurt it. Just watch your 02 voltage on the logger and try to keep it above .88. :thumb:
 
I'll turn the boost up to about 17-18psi for now. But, This might sound bad but on my logger, There are a few o2's.. Which one should stay above .88 : O2-R,O2-F, FTO2 ?

I am guessing anything under .88 will be lean? I'm building about 10psi in 1st gear now, But my other gears are about 14psi. Should I be building full boost in 1st gear or is the turbo to big?

I'm going to go and disconnect the battery , And i'll set the idle knob to 6, From clicking it towards the right to get there.

I'm not getting knock anymore. Also, When I turn the boost up and tune.. Now i'm not sure what knob or knobs to tune with and which way to go, I do not want to mess anything up right now as it is running better then it was before you helped, But I still know it should have ALOT more power.
:)
 
I just logged another run, The car may be fast.. But maybe i'm expecting more? I figured the car should be breaking loose at least at the top of fist and 2nd, But it dont? My small 16g @ 15psi did, with no fuel mods. I turned the boost up about 1 full turn, I think it went to maybe 16 psi, If that. By the way, I have an adjustable waste gate actuator. It is screwed all the way to short as much as it would go, When I first got the car I thought that was the problem and I screwed it in like that a few turns?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIRST GEAR WOT :

Knock: 3 counts was as I as I got in 1st gear @ 6062 rpm
02-R : 0.87V
TIMA : 30 degrees
MAFS : 918.3Hz
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SECOND GEAR WOT :

No knock all the way through second gear.

02-R : 0.89V
RPM : 4687rpms
TIMA : 27 Degrees
987.5Hz
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The highest count of knock I got on this run was :

THIRD GEAR WOT :

Knock : 38counts @ 4531 rpm
02-R : 0.91V
TIMA : 13 Degrees
MAFS : 1025.2Hz
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I disconnected the battery, And everything went to 100% But when I just did this run, This is what happened :

FTRL : 139.8% <--- It stayed at 100% until I went and did this run.
FTRM: 100.0%
FTRH: 100.0%
FT02: 100.0%

Any other suggestions? The car does feel like it starts to pick up in 2nd gear, But not until up top but then I hafto shift. I know for a fact the car should be alot faster.
 
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