Way too much oil pressure

[Slow old poop]

I have a 2.3 stroker with the balance shafts removed. It has an AMS blance shaft kit in it, which is supposed to keep the load on the oil pump and reduce the oil pressure. It worked for a while. I ran most of last season at 80 psi. Then, all of a sudden, my oil pressure shot up to 110-120 psi, and blows out the oil filter seal. The filter holds for the first 10 minutes or so of a session, then spews all over the track. Very embrarrassing!

We cut the oil from 20W-50 to 10W 30
We ported the oil filter housing.
We moved the oil cooler so it gets more air flow.
No effect.

Any ideas?
How can I get it down to 80 psi or so?

 

[GVR4592]

It sounds like the pressure relief valve is sticking. When you ported the filter housing did you check to see if the piston moved freely? It could be binding up on some rough edges left over from porting.

 

[absolute_DSM]

The filter holds for the first 10 minutes or so of a session, then spews all over the track. Very embrarrassing!

I saw that at the Iowa Speedway. Had to stop the race, geez

I would clean out that relief spring too.

Check out this thread
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129276&highlight=oil+relief+valve

And specifically the last post. That may help.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1538587&postcount=17

Good luck Rich.

 

[Slow old poop]

It sounds like the pressure relief valve is sticking. When you ported the filter housing did you check to see if the piston moved freely? It could be binding up on some rough edges left over from porting.

We ported it last year, before installng the 2.3 stroker and the balance shaft kit. It worked great for a while, then suddenly the pressure shot up on the high banks at Iowa Speedway. When we had the pan off recently, we looked at the filter housing. Maybe we should look at it again.

 

[Slow old poop]

I saw that at the Iowa Speedway. Had to stop the race, geez
I would clean out that relief spring too.
Check out this thread
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129276&highlight=oil+relief+valve
And specifically the last post. That may help.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1538587&postcount=17
Good luck Rich.

Have you done this before? You seem to know what you are talking about. If you wanted to cruise over to Cedar Rapids and help us figure it out, I'll buy the ribs and beer. We have the best ribs in the Midwest right here. It's worth the trip.

Rich

 

[Defiant]

We have the best ribs in the Midwest right here. It's worth the trip.

Hell, it's worth the trip from here. Especially if it's to watch you get dirty and cuss.

 

[Slow old poop]

Hell, it's worth the trip from here. Especially if it's to watch you get dirty and cuss.

The car is so squeaky clean under there, we don't get too dirty. And, because I am mechanically challenged, the crew doesn't want me doing anything critical. I get to remove the downpipe and unbolt the suspension and change the brakes, but as soon as things get important, they shoo me away. Nobody trusts me to do anything. Therefore, I buy a LOT of ribs and beer. I think we are up to 50 slabs of ribs at Al & Irene's so far from working on the car this year and last.

Umfortunately, this oil pressure problem has everybody baffled, even my fabulous crew.

And I don't cuss. It sounds like hell.
Rich

 

[drivemusicnow]

I say you try method number 2.

This has been my backup idea for if/when I need it depending on oil pressure:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Remo...015QQitemZ250113551307QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

I had previously thought about using a fuel pressure regulator, but the temperature may be too high. If not, an FPR would be a similarly costing solution.

Just weld a return fitting in the pan, run the lines and let 'er rip.

 

[Slow old poop]

I say you try method number 2..

Which number 2 are you referrring to?

This has been my backup idea for if/when I need it depending on oil pressure:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Remo...015QQitemZ250113551307QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

I had previously thought about using a fuel pressure regulator, but the temperature may be too high. If not, an FPR would be a similarly costing solution.

Just weld a return fitting in the pan, run the lines and let 'er rip.

I like this idea! Has anybody else ever done it?
Thanks

Rich

 

[drivemusicnow]

It's my method 2, as in, if the normal things don't work for me (going to FINALLY be starting up my car in the next week or so) it'll be the method I use.

It'll help when you need it to, and it won't hurt. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone else doing it. Maybe a vendor should make a bolt on kit and kick me back 5$ for everyone they sell.

 

[Strm Trpr]

This is a long shot, but if the high banked turns are to the left, could the oil in the pan come up, out around the oil pick up tube and block the oil by-pass drain that drains the by-passed oil back into the pan.
Does your oil pressure stabilize once you are back on flat ground?
Does it only happen at this particular track?

I know its a drag racing oil pan, I'm not even sure you can use this, just trying to help.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR-20960&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Here's another shot in the dark, I don't even know what they are used for, but would a crank scrapper help in this application?

 

[Slow old poop]

This is a long shot, but if the high banked turns are to the left, could the oil in the pan come up, out around the oil pick up tube and block the oil by-pass drain that drains the by-passed oil back into the pan.
Does your oil pressure stabilize once you are back on flat ground?
Does it only happen at this particular track?

It started on the high banks, but now it does it all the time.

Rich

 

[Strm Trpr]

Pulling the bracket off is not that big of a deal.
A friend of mine ported his by-pass valve, but not enough.
When I showed him how I ported mine, he took his off and I reported it for him and now he has perfect oil pressure. He has a 6-bolt no BS and his oil pressure never goes above 80psi right where the bypass valve is designed to open.
Perhaps your valve may be stuck, or the drain is plugged with some excess RTV that came off of the pan or something.
You never know, and I'd pull the bracket to find out.