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2G Wal bro 255 install on 2g fwd

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Stm and extremepsi sell a nice kit for 35 bucks or so. Come with everything you need with instructions.
I appreciate it man

They generally just plug in and you cable tie or hose clamp it in place in the bracket.
Alright cool, my last dsm the guy said he had to re wire the fuel pump but that was a 1g
 
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There is a "rewire" mod if you want to do that, but its not neccesary to make the pump work, its a performance mod that can also be done with the stock pump.
 
Alright cool, my last dsm the guy said he had to re wire the fuel pump but that was a 1g
Yeah I think you're onfusing just hooking it up vs the aforementioned rewire mod. Also do not use a zip tie to secure the pump. This is obviously submerged in gasoline.
 
The diagram above is correct for the rewire mod. Make sure you get a heavy enough gauge wire (like 10 gauge), and I would suggest running the hot line directly to the alternator instead of the battery. It's a longer run and you need to avoid the heat of manifold area,but you get a regulated voltage.
 
The diagram above is correct for the rewire mod. Make sure you get a heavy enough gauge wire (like 10 gauge), and I would suggest running the hot line directly to the alternator instead of the battery. It's a longer run and you need to avoid the heat of manifold area,but you get a regulated voltage.
This is interesting, Has anybody else done this before?
 
The battery also acts like a big capacitor. The voltage at it's posts are most likely the quietest/cleanest place in the electrical system. As long as the car is running the voltage at the alternator will be the highest but with ripple. When the car isn't that piece of wire between the alternator and battery is going to be a voltage drop in the other direction.

I don't see any good reason to connect the fuel pump to the alternator vs the battery. I do recommend improving the alternator wiring, both to the battery and grounding.
 
Just went out to the garage and pulled the "Building Max Performance 4G63T's" written by Robert Garcia of RRE off the shelf to brush up on what I'm talking about. Page 87 Garcia gives a full explanation on how the alternator is the source of the car's electrical system when the car is running and why you should re-wire the pump directly to the alternator, not the battery. I had mine wired directly to the battery for probably a decade, once I changed it over to the alternator ... the first thing I noticed was the pump made a CONSTANT noise all the time, no matter whether I was at a stop or driving. Before, my pump always whined louder at a stop. I'm guessing that was b/c the pump was actually getting a regulated 14V from the alternator consistently. If you have the book, check out that page, it's an interesting read.
 
I understand your logic, however with the fuel pump rewire the alternator is automatically now wired directly to the fuel pump at the battery terminal

By your logic the battery terminal is the cause of the bad connection, not the battery.

Using that logic you would also not want to use a relay because it disrupts the voltage of the alternator

Regulated power source is not a valid term, the battery has already received regulated voltage and is a constant stable voltage. So the battery is a better constant, "regulated" power source

So the theory is not any more valid than a regular fuel pump re wire. Or to be exact you want to upgrade the gauge wire of the alternator to battery connection for the best electrical system performance. So, I agree a new wire to the alternator is the best
 
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