1G W4A33 line pressure

[SasaniFab]

I wanted to pass this along as it was brought to my attention. Most guys , if not all guys running this transmission are using the standard shift kit offered and have the line pressure adjustment either maxed out or nearly maxed out along with the reducing pressure. When they logged the line pressure they were seeing 150 psi Max. According to Kiggly for guys making decent power you should have at least 200psi. They decided to add a 4mm shim and will be taking the car out later. I’m Interested to see what the pressure is after this adjustment.

 

[transdude]

There is a spring kit that's available now that includes a pr spring and a tcc regulator spring.

 

[SasaniFab]

There is a spring kit that's available now that includes a pr spring and a tcc regulator spring.

I have that installed , the real ? .... do people even test for themselves? Probably not.

 

[007jimmy]

There is a spring kit that's available now that includes a pr spring and a tcc regulator spring.

Would those 2 spring upgrades be fine for street driving? Pretty sure I have just the normal shift kit, purchased back in 2010, curious to know if it’s a big difference or not. Is it possible to have too much line pressure for the street? I don’t care for comfort.

 

[motomattx]

Too much pressure can break hard parts, shimming is really not the cure on this kind of thing, its needs the right spring, sure shimming can get results but your then limiting spring travel and getting closer to coil bind, its really better to just use a proper spring.

 

[SasaniFab]

4mm shim , max out resulted in 180 psi line pressure at the port. Up from 150

 

[SasaniFab]

I have the IPT upgraded spring, I've never measured line pressure, it was recommended by Kiggly to shim to increase line pressure.

I have a race car, is it necessary on the street? Probably not, as Matt said, it can be hard on parts. I have billet front and rear baskets so this doesn’t really apply to me. I just thought I’d share the information.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Thanks so much for the RESULTS. Thats what this forum is about.
@transdude is a very good source, believe me.
@transdude, I need that kit. Can you link it here in this thread?
Thanks John!
I need to PM you.
Marty

 

[SasaniFab]

There is a spring kit that's available now that includes a pr spring and a tcc regulator spring.

Is this John from IPT?
If it is, I had no idea . If it is, what line pressure should I expect with your spring?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

is this John from ipt ? If it is ... had no idea . If it is .... what line pressure should I expect with your spring?

The MAN himself!!!! I have to chuckle

 

[007jimmy]

Thanks so much for the RESULTS. Thats what this forum is about.
@transdude is a very good source, believe me.
@transdude, I need that kit. Can you link it here in this thread?
Thanks John!
I need to PM you.
Marty

Here is the link to the spring upgrade
https://www.importperformancetrans.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5440

 

[transdude]

Thanks guys. A spring kit should get at least 150psi in a healthy transmission.

I think that it is of importance to note that line pressure is certainly only a part of the equation in getting any transmission to handle more power.

Rewind to 1989 to my first "KM" transmission build in my mom's driveway/garage- on my neighbor's 1985 Gallant I was cranking on those adjusters

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Mine is almost done now finally. Curious though but which parts take the abuse with high line pressure? I have the upgraded 2 spring kit with a ratchet shifter. Would be nice to drive on the street from time to time. Real kick in the buttocks on shifts?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I think it's gonna depend on how much you grip the road. With drag radials, it will hook and that will be rough on gears and cv joints.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Very nice!
Have you tried blocking off the lockup solenoid as well?

 

[transdude]

Mine is almost done now finally. Curious though but which parts take the abuse with high line pressure? I have the upgraded 2 spring kit with a ratchet shifter. Would be nice to drive on the street from time to time. Real kick in the buttocks on shifts?

It should absolutely shift hard- you are not controlling reducing pressure via the solenoid, it's at full pressure regardless of throttle opening the way it's set up now.

 

[Blue90DEW]

I wanted to pass this along as it was brought to my attention. Most guys , if not all guys running this transmission are using the standard shift kit offered and have the line pressure adjustment either maxed out or nearly maxed out along with the reducing pressure. When they logged the line pressure they were seeing 150 psi Max. According to Kiggly for guys making decent power you should have at least 200psi. They decided to add a 4mm shim and will be taking the car out later. I’m Interested to see what the pressure is after this adjustment.

Good info just what I was looking for. Which port on the trans are you using to log line pressure?

 

[spoolinpos]

Where are you guys placing pressure sensor for the line pressure data? Thanks

 

[Brandon Mau]

Where are you guys placing pressure sensor for the line pressure data? Thanks

Rear clutch is what I like to use out of inputs without an expander. Here is a factory chart but it shows the rear clutch has pressure in all forward gears vs the front.

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[Brandon Mau]

Pressures will vary but I’ve tried a few different things as well. Current VB is a standard translab shift kit, reducing pressure valve pinned shut, IPT pressure spring. I haven’t tried the converter charge spring yet but it’s on the shelf. 3 turns on from maxed and I see 210-215 psi of line pressure and 115-120 converter charge pressure. The tau kit with converter charge pinned shut was 170 psi which I believe was the root cause of smoking my thrust bearings. That’s on me for not monitoring that last season though. Hope this info helps Christian.

 

[spoolinpos]

This absolutely does help. I will be starting to log this "line pressure" (RC) and also converter discharge, so it's good to see the type on numbers I should be seeing vs what I initially see. I haven't had any issues in the past, but I've never really adjusted any of these pressures, or logged anything. This VB supposedly has the IPT spring in it, and it was cleaned/checked out by Aaron last time it was apart, so the data will hopefully be pretty close to where it needs to be.

One last question @TeamFury , is the converter charge pressure you mention, is this the pressure in which ATF is exiting out of the trans to the cooler? Do you tap into that oil line to capture that data, or do you tap into one of those converter pressure ports on the diagram?

I appreciate it a ton, Brandon!

 

[Brandon Mau]

So I measure converter charge pressure (apply) this is fluid filling your TC. I’ve actually had quite in depth discussions with Gregory, Montgomery and Kiggly they all use the orange translab converter charge spring.

The converter release aka cooler out is the lube circuit that you hear Kiggly always mention. He has stated and I can screenshot our conversation that there wasn’t really any issues until he got into the bottom 8’s and 7’s with the planets. When I say problems I’m talking about the bluing issues from (low pressure). I do have a sensor directly on that inlet fitting top of transmission. After launch it will drop down to 5-7 psi then stabilize after I get going in 2nd and 3rd. This is due to the trans pan design no way to make any baffle in it. Totally acceptable and Montgomery see’s similar and been running like that for years. Anywhere from 25-40 psi is what I’ve gathered from a handful of people running precision converters on the cooler out line.

The RD port mod is what Ong, Gregory and Kiggly did run. I talked to Jeff bush he ran standard line configuration just like Montgomery. So that one you’ll want to see RD port no less than 60 psi. I spent a few months earlier in the year playing with it but the converter acted really strange stalled up way higher with no nos. I used a restrictor off the cooler out line to get the 60 psi lube circuit target but my line pressure was 290 psi and converter charge 189 psi (way too high). The precision converters suck with discharge pressure as is but the circle d bolt together you’ll be able to tune it easier. Converter charge you can run pretty low pressure and it will go down the track. The V8 guys with dump valves run 3-4 second 1/8 miles with 8-10 psi of charge pressure. Line pressure just think as the lube circuit and clamping load of the clutches easiest way I can put it.