The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BoostInsideTSi

15+ Year Contributor
200
1
May 5, 2004
Aurora, Illinois
Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.


I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike
 
You are gonna have to bleed it and find out how the can got empty. Get a friend to pump the clutch while you open the valve on the slave cyl. and keep the resivior full.
 
crankwalk isn't related to the clutch anywho. If your clutch is out of fluid,it went somewhere,like the post above suggests,fill it up,pump it and check to see where its leaking. Perhaps the clutch cylinder,the rubber line going to the slave,or the slave itself is the culprit....
 
once you get air into the line you need to bleed it out at the slave. You either need a friend to help or get a hand pump kit from your local auto parts store. This is not always a easy thing to do either way. Also you may need a new master cylinder. Check for fluid inside and out, fluid doesnt just disappear.
 
Right. I wouldn't worry about bleeding it until you've found the source of the leak...... fill up the clutch master,pump the sh*t out of it,and check to see whats leaking.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


the silver bleeder screw (on top) is what you crack loose to bleed the slave.
It May have a black rubber cap on it.....
 
Same thing happened to me once. Leaking from master inside the car. I just filled it back up and bled it. That was 2002. I figured it takes 10 years to completely empty, so it isn't that urgent. I still haven't replaced it. My biggest worry is about what the brake fluid is doing to the paint on my firewall.
You can bleed it out well enough by yourself. Take out the bleeder and grease the threads to make them more air-tight. Attach a hose to the bleeder nipple, and submerge the other end in brake fluid in your catch vessel. Route the hose with a loop ABOVE the level of the bleeder, so bubbles can't work their way back up the hose back into the bleeder in between pumps. Open the bleeder just enough that fluid can come out, then pump, pump, pump. Just stop frequently to check the level in the resevoir. If you run it dry you have to start over.
 
This happened to me a few months ago. I changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave sylinder and it drives fine now. it took like 45min to change. If one went out the other is going to eventually, so it is best to change them at the same time.
 
I know you probably all ready tried this but i was having most of the same problems as you and all i had to do was to loosen a bolt at the top of the pedal to make less freeplay so basically just a pedal adjustment and my problem has now gone away except for having to loosen it again every once in a while.
 
I know you probably all ready tried this but i was having most of the same problems as you and all i had to do was to loosen a bolt at the top of the pedal to make less freeplay so basically just a pedal adjustment and my problem has now gone away except for having to loosen it again every once in a while.

i've already tried that. i think it is the clutch. there have been a few local people that had the same clutch and it has broken on them and they had the same symptoms
 
I just got an act 2600 today and now my car is very hard to drive. it has no free play at all as soon as as I put it in gear the car takes off I only need to let go of the clutch like an inch. I explained the problem to the mechanic who installed it but he said it was normal for high performance clutches . the gears also have a hard time going in but he said it was because he replaced the master cylinder and the line still had some air bubbles in it. so what do you guys think should I get used to the clutch or should I go tell the guy to fix it?
 
This guy is taking you for a ride!


When you put in a new clutch you have to adjust the master cylinder rod where it attaches to the clutch pedal. All it takes is 5 minutes. This adjusts where the pedal engages the clutch.

Also there should be NO air bubbles after bleeding a hydraulic system. This has to be rebled if there are any.


Good luck
 
also a bent fork will be the cause of gears not going in.

Yeah but before that he should do the easy things first. Many things can cause it to not go into gear, but lets not jump to conclusions. Do the basic stuff first and if that doesn't work, then go from there.

HaZ let us know how it goes after you bleed and adjust the clutch.
 
Yeah but before that he should do the easy things first. Many things can cause it to not go into gear, but lets not jump to conclusions. Do the basic stuff first and if that doesn't work, then go from there.

HaZ let us know how it goes after you bleed and adjust the clutch.

Killa Dsm is right. I was just putting my 2 cents in. Go for the basics first.:thumb:
 
alright so i turned on my car after it sat for about 3 hours and i couldnt put it into any gear...

i turned off my car and held down the clutch and it went right into gear...then i can start it in gear and it will shift, but with a bit of resistance..

the clutch is really wierd...sometimes it will get stuck at the floor and other times it will be really stiff while pressing it down...


i think it mgiht be my slave cyl...

im getting my clutch replaced tomorrow

i believe that it is only a prob with my slave but can there also be something wrong with my tranny??



i think that its my slave but idk
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top