Clutch Pedal Stuck to Floor

[4gfun]

I have been driving my vehicle on terrible commutes lately. I took a turn and noticed that my clutch pedal was stuck to the floor. Prior to that, I was hearing a springy creaky sound from what seems to be outside the car when I pressed the clutch pedal.

Slave and Masters are about 15k miles old. XTD Stage 3 Flywheel, Pressure Plate, and Clutch are about 12k miles old.

Any idea what it can be? I thought the rod might have popped off of the clutch master, but it is still there. I hope that I didn't break the clutch fork!

Thanks

 

[95burgundyesi]

Does it fall to the floor while accelerating from a stop, not WOT, but just 5 pounds of boost cruising?

I know part store master cylinders can be hit or miss, so if you have a newer non-oem master, the seals could be junk on piston inside. My master cylinder leaked after a few thousand miles with a after market pressure plate, possibly due to the extra force things see with the heavier plate.

You can still get oem master cylinder rebuild kits for twenty bucks if I recall. As long as your master cylinders are not scratched to hell, you should be able to rebuild it. This is assuming it is the master.

 

[4gfun]

Well now it is stuck to the floor permanently. The car is sitting on a side street. I can pick it up super easy but if I push it down, it stays down.

I have a spare master and slave laying around that I could easily swap out, just trying to get some ideas before the tow truck comes. The $214 bill hurts and that is with roadside. WTF

Master and Slave were Exedy purchased new off of ebay.

Does it fall to the floor while accelerating from a stop, not WOT, but just 5 pounds of boost cruising?

I know part store master cylinders can be hit or miss, so if you have a newer non-oem master, the seals could be junk on piston inside. My master cylinder leaked after a few thousand miles with a after market pressure plate, possibly due to the extra force things see with the heavier plate.

You can still get oem master cylinder rebuild kits for twenty bucks if I recall. As long as your master cylinders are not scratched to hell, you should be able to rebuild it. This is assuming it is the master.

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

Sounds like your master went out or you have a leak somewhere

 

[4gfun]

Master is full. I am hoping that is the case. Just killing some time talking about it...thanks for both of yours.

Sounds like your master went out or you have a leak somewhere

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

I'm sure you know this but there can be air in your system if the masters is full. My fiend clutch damper had a small leak and it would suck air in and his master was always full.

 

[4gfun]

Actually I didn't know this...thanks.

I'm sure you know this but there can be air in your system if the masters is full. My fiend clutch damper had a small leak and it would suck air in and his master was always full.

 

[Long live dsm]

Check the clutch fluid level see if its low, if it is you may just have a leak, add more in have a buddy fully press on the clutch petal! Look for leaks under neath the car and inside around the drivers floor board and fire wall where that master goes through to connect the clutch petal

 

[4gfun]

Well I replaced the slave with one that I had laying around....who knows that one could have issues as well.

Now the pedal doesn't stick to the floor but is still rather spongy.

Result...it is halfway better but not enough to get the car in gear. I adjusted the master cylinder to no avail. I bled the slave to no avail.

I guess that I'll just get brand new master and slave cylinders.

What really bothers me is the strange springy noise coming from below the car. Absolutely no one near is available to press the pedal in so it's all guess work from here.

I hope it is not internal.

 

[GofaST4life]

Best bet is to buy a new OEM Master, Slave and get the STM SS clutch line kit. Link below. Probably the best $50 ive spent on my clutch system yet. The fittings make everything hella easy for the future.

STM: STAINLESS CLUTCHLINE | MASTER TO SLAVE CYLINDER | 90-99 DSM


Its a VERY easy install. You get rid of all the lines you cannot see and it gets rid of that stupid fluid reservoir.

I was having all sorts of stupid pedal issues. Did this, back to driving fine and fixing other issues.

 

[GofaST4life]

I'm sure you know this but there can be air in your system if the masters is full. My fiend clutch damper had a small leak and it would suck air in and his master was always full.

This is me, and its true. It would leak pressure which resulted in less clutch pedal throw which led to grinding, notchy, horrible shifts.

 

[4gfun]

I might just do this. I already have the SS clutch portion though.

Best bet is to buy a new OEM Master, Slave and get the STM SS clutch line kit. Link below. Probably the best $50 ive spent on my clutch system yet. The fittings make everything hella easy for the future.

STM: STAINLESS CLUTCHLINE | MASTER TO SLAVE CYLINDER | 90-99 DSM


Its a VERY easy install. You get rid of all the lines you cannot see and it gets rid of that stupid fluid reservoir.

I was having all sorts of stupid pedal issues. Did this, back to driving fine and fixing other issues.

 

[HaveBlue83]

i had my pedal stay on the floor after highway drives......it had air in the system and needed a FULLLL bleed and new fluids. Do this FIRST.

I had my second DSM have a bad master cyl after a fresh clutch just and new Slave. I bled it....next day after driving it would be halfway to the floor and you could feel it going lower. THAT is a mast cyl (maybe slave) issue.

just my .02

 

[Boostdriven]

If you have no leaks and the fluid is full, and if you bled the system of air and it still feels spongy then the problem is somewhere else. It could be few things, the worst one would be if your fork broke. Get under the car and feel the fork by hand to see if its loose. When everything is bled properly the slave cylinder shaft should have just enough pressure against the fork to keep the throw out bearing right against the pressure plate. If you try to move the fork it should feel snug and have very little play. If you feel like an 1/8-1/4 inch play up then down then its possible that one of the fingers on the fork broke. In that case the fork will sit slightly out of square. It will be easier to see that if you remove the rubber dirt shield around the fork. When you do that move the fork side to side and if you see it go slightly out of square then its broken for sure.

Another problem you could be having is part of the reason why you hear that squeaky noise. Not sure which car you're working, the 1G talon or the GVR4. If GVR4 has the same clutch paddle assembly as 1G then this would apply to both cars. On 1Gs the master cylinder is on the opposite side of the brake paddle. If you look at the paddle assembly you will see there is a tube that runs from the clutch paddle over to the master cylinder arm. Pull the paddle all the way up by hand and then as you press it down look to make sure that everything is moving in sequence. If you see the paddle move but the clutch arm at the other end of the tube is not moving then your clutch paddle connection to the tube is broke. I've seen this situation before. In this case you will have to remove the whole paddle assembly and weld the broken connection. Make sure that when you weld it you set the paddle to the original position in relation to the tube.

 

[4gfun]

It has been completely bled though. I need to check my master out too!

i had my pedal stay on the floor after highway drives......it had air in the system and needed a FULLLL bleed and new fluids. Do this FIRST.

I had my second DSM have a bad master cyl after a fresh clutch just and new Slave. I bled it....next day after driving it would be halfway to the floor and you could feel it going lower. THAT is a mast cyl (maybe slave) issue.

just my .02

Working on the GVR4.

Thanks for the tips. I think that I am going to start off with a fresh OEM master and Slave.

I had these on the car and they only lasted about 10k with my XTD stage 3:

http://gripforce.com/product/exedy-...nder-talon-tsi-eclipse-gst-gsx-spyder-gs.html

The squeaking is strange. It does eminate from under the car. Really wish I had someone nearby to help but everyone is injured etc.

I thought that I had the steel braided line from Master to Slave but I guess I didn't. There is just a few inches of steel braided line...I guess that is OEM.

Does anyone know who sells the OEM master and slave for the best price?

Those suckers sure are expensive.

Thanks

If you have no leaks and the fluid is full, and if you bled the system of air and it still feels spongy then the problem is somewhere else. It could be few things, the worst one would be if your fork broke. Get under the car and feel the fork by hand to see if its loose. When everything is bled properly the slave cylinder shaft should have just enough pressure against the fork to keep the throw out bearing right against the pressure plate. If you try to move the fork it should feel snug and have very little play. If you feel like an 1/8-1/4 inch play up then down then its possible that one of the fingers on the fork broke. In that case the fork will sit slightly out of square. It will be easier to see that if you remove the rubber dirt shield around the fork. When you do that move the fork side to side and if you see it go slightly out of square then its broken for sure.

Another problem you could be having is part of the reason why you hear that squeaky noise. Not sure which car you're working, the 1G talon or the GVR4. If GVR4 has the same clutch paddle assembly as 1G then this would apply to both cars. On 1Gs the master cylinder is on the opposite side of the brake paddle. If you look at the paddle assembly you will see there is a tube that runs from the clutch paddle over to the master cylinder arm. Pull the paddle all the way up by hand and then as you press it down look to make sure that everything is moving in sequence. If you see the paddle move but the clutch arm at the other end of the tube is not moving then your clutch paddle connection to the tube is broke. I've seen this situation before. In this case you will have to remove the whole paddle assembly and weld the broken connection. Make sure that when you weld it you set the paddle to the original position in relation to the tube.

 

[Boostdriven]

Before you spend any more money I would investigate those things I talked about because if you have an issue there then new master/slave is not going to fix it.

Another thing I didn't think off in my first post is that you can have a problem with the master cylinder rod/fork assembly. You said you replaced it once already so there is a chance that the new one you got with the master cylinder was a little different then the factory one you had. The last few master cylinders jobs I did the new cylinder came with a slightly different rod/fork assembly. New rod should be a little shorter then the factory one because the fork is slightly longer. The original fork you had in the car should have been a solid metal piece, the new one you probably have is actually a two piece. The fork itself and the insert piece that the rod screws in to, that piece will sit inside a barrel looking thing on the back of the fork. All that will be as one assembly but the way its made it has a rubber cushion in between those pieces and what holds the back piece inside that little barrel are few bent over corners. On this new style of fork I've seen where that back insert piece will fold slightly sideways taking away from the full throw of the clutch. My friend that has a 2900# pressure plate just replaced a master on his car and that piece failed the same day so he just used his old rod/fork assembly and his problem was fixed. I can't post any pictures off my phone to give you a better idea but if you look at it you will see what I'm talking about. This might not be your case but its an idea, hope this helps.

 

[95_gsx_2g]

Well I replaced the slave with one that I had laying around....who knows that one could have issues as well.

Now the pedal doesn't stick to the floor but is still rather spongy.

Result...it is halfway better but not enough to get the car in gear. I adjusted the master cylinder to no avail. I bled the slave to no avail.

I guess that I'll just get brand new master and slave cylinders.

What really bothers me is the strange springy noise coming from below the car. Absolutely no one near is available to press the pedal in so it's all guess work from here.

I hope it is not internal.

I put a hard clutch line on mine which helped a bunch for it being unpredictable and spongy at times. As for it sticking I would say either the adjustment rod down by the petal is far off where it should be (not too far in or out) or your clutch, master or slave is going. The noise sounds like a leak of some sort to me because a noise from just your foot pushing is normal and the clutch hitting the firewall. But a springy noise tells me something needs replaced. If the problem occurs after you replace stuff then I would say it's the clutch itself worn out like the pressure plate, disk throwout bearing etc.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks so far. I am going to stop working on the GVR4 and start pulling the head on the 1g. Gotta get one of them running.

I'll let you know how I make out.