Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[1992awdlaser]

Try adjusting the clutch. If it doesn't work, you probably need a clutch. Could be the hydraulics also. Are they leaking a lot?

 

[96ETT]

Yea linkage problem would make the shifter feel different. If the shifter feels fine, yet the car isnt acting right then it is something with the clutch. You may be able to adjust it like mentioned but chances are it needs replacing very soon anyway.

 

[90-GST]

well the clutch was replaced, but im not sure how long ago. it has a centerforce dual friction clutch in it now. and before this happened, it felt completely fine. no slipping or anything. it seems like the clutch isnt disengaging. when started in gear, it drives like normal, but if i push the clutch in while moving nothing happens. the slave cylinder is full and isnt leaking.

and how would i go about adjusting the clutch. i know there is a bolt by the pedal, but not sure how to tell which one

 

[92AWDHX40]

Teamrip.com
for the adjusting, is your master clutch cylinder leaking?

 

[viprez586]

Try adjusting your clutch like said.
I had same problem, ended up my bellhousing bolts mysteriously disappeared. Probably something you should check just in case. I'd even go as far to take off the TOB inspection cover and see if it is fully disengaging, the condition of the TOB + Fork, and how the P.P. diaphragm "fingers" look/condition.

Like i said, had exact same symptoms your describing, but my transmission was actually pushed off the dowel pins a little bit and got zero disengagement. This ended up destroying the TOB, P.P.,and TOB collar on the trans. If you look at the pictures in my profile they speak for themselves.

 

[MY1GDSM]

you could have had one of the Spings in the disk break free and lodge in between the PP and CD...I had that happen once and it did the same thing...

 

[90-GST]

im going to try and adjust the clutch soon. i just limped it home from where it was sitting in first gear because it wont disengage at all and would only start in first. i couldnt even match revs to shift either. if adjusting the clutch doesnt work, what should i try next

 

[90-GST]

just tried adjusting the clutch and nothing. im really hoping i dont need to buy another clutch. is there anything else i could try?

 

[B005T3D_1]

any noises to go along with this problem? with the clutch depressed,foot resting on the pedal,or with your foot completely off of the pedal? is there any slipping at all now?

 

[90-GST]

any noises to go along with this problem? with the clutch depressed,foot resting on the pedal,or with your foot completely off of the pedal? is there any slipping at all now?

there are no noises at all. i have had a bad motor mount for a while, but cant tell if the noises are coming from the rear mount of the tranny mount. i think it is the tranny mount though, there is a loud clanking noise that happens when i take off in first or downshift into second.

other than that, it just seems like my clutch is not disengaging at all. while driving it in first gear on the way home, it seemed to drive fine. there was no slipping or anything of the sort. if the car is on, or basically the key turned to the ignition point, the car will not shift gears. while rolling, even when off, the car will not go into gear at all, until it is stopped again. the clutch seems to be fine, besides the fact that it will not disengage.

a friend said he thinks it might be the clutch release fork, but i think someone said before that it would make the shifter feel weird. i tried adjusting the clutch, with no avail. im trying to get the car back on the road since its my only car. so if anyone has any ideas please let me know

 

[B005T3D_1]

this is long but try this.
when the clutch drags, it does not release properly, the disc stays attached to the flywheel. too much pedal travel can result some or all of the time. the transmission is often difficult to shift between gears or to put in low or reverse AFTER STARTING.

to test for a dragging clutch
start the engine and run it until the engine and trans are at normal operating temp.
with the engine at idle and the trans in neutral,depress the pedal to the floor
wait 10 seconds
shift the trans into reverse
ten seconds should be enough time for the clutch to come to a complete stop allowing a shift into reverse without gear clash. if there is gear clash, the clutch is not releasing complely.

a dragging clutch can be due to a bent disc or clutch bearing retainer, or to a rusted input shaft. discs are checked at the factory for runout(being bent) however they can be damaged during shipping. a more likely cause is that the tranny was allowd to hang on the clutch during installation.

i hope this helps, it seems like the symptoms you are having.

you can check for a dragging clutch by
starting the car, put the parking brake on, place the tranny in the highest gear, and release. watch the rpms, if they go higher its slipping, lower and its good. dont let it sit there in 5th with the clutch disengaged for a long period of time this test is meant to take only a few seconds.

 

[90-GST]

this is long but try this.
when the clutch drags, it does not release properly, the disc stays attached to the flywheel. too much pedal travel can result some or all of the time. the transmission is often difficult to shift between gears or to put in low or reverse AFTER STARTING.

to test for a dragging clutch
start the engine and run it until the engine and trans are at normal operating temp.
with the engine at idle and the trans in neutral,depress the pedal to the floor
wait 10 seconds
shift the trans into reverse
ten seconds should be enough time for the clutch to come to a complete stop allowing a shift into reverse without gear clash. if there is gear clash, the clutch is not releasing complely.

a dragging clutch can be due to a bent disc or clutch bearing retainer, or to a rusted input shaft. discs are checked at the factory for runout(being bent) however they can be damaged during shipping. a more likely cause is that the tranny was allowd to hang on the clutch during installation.

i hope this helps, it seems like the symptoms you are having.

you can check for a dragging clutch by
starting the car, put the parking brake on, place the tranny in the highest gear, and release. watch the rpms, if they go higher its slipping, lower and its good. dont let it sit there in 5th with the clutch disengaged for a long period of time this test is meant to take only a few seconds.

im going to try your idea soon. the clutch has 5-10k on it at least. it was shifting fine, had no problems with it. only other thing i can think of is that i got on it a few min before it stopped going into gear and it seemed to slip a little.

or crank walk but wtf do i know? im drunk as shiteeee

, engine runs fine

 

[90-GST]

just tried what you said boosted. after holding the clutch in for over 10 seconds it still grinded when trying to go into reverse. when i try and push it into a gear, the revs fall, but i dont want to push it all the way into gear because it doesnt want to go in. any other ideas?

 

[B005T3D_1]

hrrrmmmm!?!?!?!? at this point, im stuck. your clutch isnt even trying to disengage at all. you got a full firm pedal, personally i would say tear it down and see whats going on inside. could be loose, or mis-alligned, but you would think that would cause a horrible noise of some sort. when you pump the clutch pedal look and confirm that the slave cyl. is pushing the shifter fork and how much it moves. id say double check all of the external things before you go inside, but to me after you doing that test it confirms clutch plate problems. who knows how much abuse that clutch has taken especially if it was installed even the slightest bit wrong.

good luck man

 

[90-GST]

hrrrmmmm!?!?!?!? at this point, im stuck. your clutch isnt even trying to disengage at all. you got a full firm pedal, personally i would say tear it down and see whats going on inside. could be loose, or mis-alligned, but you would think that would cause a horrible noise of some sort. when you pump the clutch pedal look and confirm that the slave cyl. is pushing the shifter fork and how much it moves. id say double check all of the external things before you go inside, but to me after you doing that test it confirms clutch plate problems. who knows how much abuse that clutch has taken especially if it was installed even the slightest bit wrong.

good luck man

im trying to avoid having to tear it down, so i'll check out the slave cylinder and such when i get a chance tomorrow. its so damn cold i dont want to just sit outside and look at everything at once, plus, with 8 inches of snow, i dont think its getting warmer any time soon. thanks for all your help.

 

[B005T3D_1]

damn i wish it would snow here!!!! no prob man good luck

 

[90-GST]

a friend suggested the slave cylinder. he said his went out, but didnt leak any, and cause the same symptoms. does this seem about right? what should i check to see if this is the problem? could anyone explain how to check this as well?

 

[holb]

I been having a disengagement issues with my 1g awd. Every time we bleed the clutch air comes out, we bleed it until the air stops then try to get the car to go into gear. Start the car then it goes into gear fine. With the car on, the clutch has alot less pressure from the 2600 than it does when car is off. The car goes into gear fine for like 3-4 shifts then its hard to get out of gears and go back in them and right after that happens it starts grinding and won't let me go into gear at all. When it does work the clutch disengages RIGHT off the floor. I just put in a new pedal assembly,new clutch, tob, flywheel, etc. Then we let the car sit for the night and this morning it had more air in the lines. Is there air coming in the lines or is it something else.

 

[indhp94]

slave cylinder or maybe master.

 

[TSiAWD666]

Perhaps you need to bleed the master cylinder. You'll need to disconnect the hard line in order to do this, but it won't take long. Of course afterwards you'll need to bleed the rest of the system. There are procedures for this in other threads.... I'm just too lazy to type 'em

 

[1gentalonfan]

I just want to state first that i HATE hydraulic clutches. there stupid and ive had nothing but problems with them. i miss the cable clutch my crx had. anyway to the problem. i just replaced my master and slave cylinders as they both sort of crapped out at the same time. i cant get it to bleed right!! i bled it just pushing the pedal down and cracking the bleeder and then close bleeder and pull pedal all the way up like 20 times, and ive tried a vacuum bleeder and neither has done anything. my clutch adjustment by the pedal is maxed and my pedal is still right on the floor. what am i doing wrong?!!! this is so frustrating.

 

[jjgrizz73]

It has to be something you're doing. Best way is to get 2 people, pump the clutch up 5-10 times hold it to the floor and have someone loosen the bleeder. keep watching for air bubbles and pockets in the fluid and watch that you dont run out of fluid while doing this. When you see now more air, with the clutch to the floor, tighten up the screw. refill with brake fluid and see if that works.

You're not leaking from anywhere correct? and both parts are installed correctly? (Idk how you could mess it up but I heard of worse)

 

[jrohner]

my clutch adjustment by the pedal is maxed and my pedal is still right on the floor. what am i doing wrong?!!! this is so frustrating.

Right there, you said what you're doing wrong. The clutch won't bleed right (or work right) if you have the adjustment like that -- it's the same as if you only let the clutch pedal back up half way and then went back down again. If you did get it to work that way, your clutch would slip like mad as soon as the temperature goes up.

Go to jackstransmissions.com and watch his clutch adjustment video.

 

[jjgrizz73]

I believe he means he is trying to get it OFF the floor but he cant get the adjustment up enough. Either the adjustment is wrong or the lines not bled properly.

 

[gorf]

Like they said above go to jacks transmission to see the correct way to bleed.
Easy way to get fluid just into the system is to open the bleeder and pour fluid into the reservoir - you should see the level drop in the reservoir. Get a "self bleeder" not sure the correct name but they sell them for one man brake bleeding. It is a plastic jar that has a tube in it. You put fluid in the bottle and now you can pump the pedal up and down, it forces the air out and sucks fluid back in.

Finish up by bleeding the correct way!