Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[viperlp01]

Could be hydrolics if it is really cold but other than that..... Clutch disc sprinds popped out and lodged in there, bent your fork..

 

[anteversion]

Thats really bad but the best way to go is to put down that tranny from the block and look at the clutch. This way will be a lot more easier to diagnose wich part are worn or broken and you wont loose time at wondering what it could be.

 

[chel]

So i bled the clutch did not have any luck. I replaced the clutch master cyl and slave cyl, bled that and still not having much luck, was having a hard time with the pedal coming up all the way after i bled it... screwed around with the master cyl rod and now the pedal comes up no problem but the pedal goes hard and cant make contact with the clutch switch to start the car, would say its a inch away from the fire wall.

 

[98gst14b]

I just repaired that problem with my car w/ same symtoms. Could be your clutch pedal assembly. Push the pedal all the way to the floor, let the pedal up, wait 5 seconds, then put your foot behind the pedal and try to pull up on it. If it moves at all, its your pedal. Theres a vfaq on this too lazy to find it though.

 

[gsx7707]

adjust your pedal it could be over extending

 

[jdodds]

So i bled the clutch did not have any luck. I replaced the clutch master cyl and slave cyl, bled that and still not having much luck, was having a hard time with the pedal coming up all the way after i bled it... screwed around with the master cyl rod and now the pedal comes up no problem but the pedal goes hard and cant make contact with the clutch switch to start the car, would say its a inch away from the fire wall.

I really hope you didnt use an auto parts store master cyl. I made the mistake of doing this with both the master and the slave. I never could get it to adjust much past the floor and the clutch was really inconsistent until now. After having transmission problems for 3 months, I called Jack at Jacks Transmissions in Colorado. After a good conversation with him, he told me that using anything other than OEM for the clutch master and slave will cause the system to malfunction. Once I replaced all of that, my shifting problems went away for the most part(Im almost sure Ive destroyed my 1-2 shift fork that was just installed less than 10k miles ago) and the clutch system works like it should. Next time you have the transmission out, I would replace the clutch fork and pivot ball. It eliminates quite a few problems such as the ones I was having.

Good luck with it.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

i also had a similar problem with my clutch and the slave cylinder. once i bought the OEM part, everything worked fine

 

[talon_42o]

Ok guys I have a 2g awd tsi with high mileage. It always had a wired rattling noise with the clutch not pressed in after a while I had the car the slave started leaking. I replaced it about 3 months ago everything was ok. Still had the rattle. Now a 2 days ago I was driving and pressed in the clutch and it made a wired pop and then it stuck to the floor so I looked at the reservoir it was empty so I figured the master went replaced it, bled it, adjusted it according to jack's transmission's website on there tech videos. Now everything looks good the fork moves and the slave adjusts it self back now I noticed something the fork sits more towards the passenger side then in the middle of the opening in the tranny. Could my fork be gone or tob? Everything is stock as far as the clutch goes.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Possible tob, maybe the fork, take off and look to make sure

 

[talon_42o]

Well had my mechanic drop the tranny apparently there was two bolts backed out, one missing the tob was bad, fork really bent and the pressure plate was worn significantly and the springs in the clutch are bad as well. Well time for a new clutch

 

[chel]

I went to Mitsubishi and bought all oem parts don't worry.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

go to your local auto parts store and buy a Haynes Manuel for your car, there are detailed descriptions of the whole clutch assembly including the pedal.

 

[Blitz_86]

its was a combination of the throwout bearing coming apart and some of the springs in the disc coming out, there were only like 4 of the balls left in the bearing, the clutch only had like 10k on it, but it has been beat on a little made few 12 sec passes on it. its up and going now

 

[chel]

I figured out my problem, broken clutch fork one side where the throw out bearing clips into the fork.

 

[twicks69]

SPEC is notorious for this problem. Many DSM'ers have had issues with the clutches losing their springs in the disk, or exploding the pressure plates, or shearing the hubs off of the clutch disk, etc.

Get rid of it, and get a new clutch, new OEM clutch fork, and new OEM throwout bearing and OEM clutch fork pivot ball. I would also recommend purchasing new pressure plate hardware.

 

[Blitz_86]

yeah im going to go with a twin disc ptt. right now i got a stock clutch in it and everything. im going down to arizona for 5 months military is moving me so i just put a stocker in it.

 

[-Z-]

alright iv searched for hours and cant find any help on my problem

iv replaced the clutch throw out bearing pressure plate slave and master cylinders ill bleed the system for hours and ill be 100% sure there is no air in the line full of fluid and ill have damn good clutch pressure but everytime i start the car i lose all pressure and it wants to grind when i put it into any gear unless i catch the rpms just right than it will shift fine or if i pump the clutch im not losing any fluid any where and all my lines are tight does anybody know whats going on cause im lost and so far 4 tranmission shops cant figure this out

 

[lowexpectations]

I can't say this is your problem but could you have possibly over adjusted the master cylinder? Simple check is to see if you can push the slave cylinder rod back in by hand.

 

[-Z-]

yeah i can push the slave rod in by hand

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

I would start by bleeding the line,(but since you've already done that) Then check the fittings if it does it again. If that doesn't do it try the slave cylinder. Its cheaper than the master. Thats why I would do it first. The slave is i think about 30 bucks online an the master is 70 not much anyway. If that doesn't do it then its the Clutch which runs around 400 for a good one. I went threw that hole process when I did mine. Good thing is I got a warranty on the hole set-up. So no worries here.

 

[-Z-]

all of that is new i even swapped out the slave and master with different ones cause i thought those were bad cause there is that chance of getting a new defected part

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Well i dont know what to tell ya then. Are the shift cables all connected and everything?

 

[Sam@RRE]

The engine being on will have nothing to do with it losing pressure. Its either you have pressure or you don't. When you installed the master, how far is it threaded into the pedal. What kind of clutch/flywheel setup are you using.

 

[-Z-]

shift cables are tight and moving freely with out any hesitations the clutch is just oem iv got 2-4 threads left showing on the master rod and i know it shouldnt have anything to do with the car running or not but every time i have a strong pedel ill bleed it a few more time just to see if any air comes out after im done ill fire the car up and its back to square one i even used this forums guide on bleeding to bleed the slave and nothing helped

 

[92AWDHX40]

Is there a leak somewhere could be a small one.