Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[No_Skillz]

Please describe, in detail, the specifics of your bleeding technique. If all parts are functioning perfectly, then this is most likely where the problem lies.

 

[bmoha2]

I find it really quick and easy to bleed my clutch using speedbleeder. Nice to make it an easy one person job as well. Really hard to mess up the bleeding as well.

 

[90TalonDDH]

Ok i have bled the system using a bottle with line attached to bleeder on the slave and i have also tried to bleed it with the slave not attached to a bottle both ways have not helped i have ran over 1 bottle of synthetic dot 4 fluid throught it (BIG BOTTLE) and there is still not enough pressure to engage the clutch.

 

[beyondspexj]

you said that the clutch fork was worn and you shimmed it. are you 100% sure its not worn down too much that it would actually need to be replaced?

 

[Sam@RRE]

what kind of clutch? taking this is a 1G you might want to look into a worn pedal assembly. It usually rears its ugly face with a heavier clutch. ie ACT 2600

 

[90TalonDDH]

you said that the clutch fork was worn and you shimmed it. are you 100% sure its not worn down too much that it would actually need to be replaced?

Okay the clutch pivot ball is good.

I checked the pedal assembly the rod attached to the pedal was slightly loose but does not need to be placed so i pulled the pedal all the way out and tightened but it is still not the issue i think.

Also the clutch kit is a Fidanza 4.3 and a Fidanza lightweight flywheel. Please help me i have had this car for almost a year and have not drove yet.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[gbradley]

Check to see if you have any play between the pedal and the actuator rod. You can try pulling up on the pedal to see if moves.

 

[90TalonDDH]

Check to see if you have any play between the pedal and the actuator rod. You can try pulling up on the pedal to see if moves.

Thats the rod that i had to tighten to make sure everything was as it should be. The pedal comes all the way to the top of its stroke when you lift your foot off the pedal after i adjusted it.Before it was staying almost to the floor like maybe 2 inches of travel now i am getting full travel out of it.

 

[pmanaresi]

does the clutch fork move at all when the pedal is pressed? if not, you may need a longer slave push rod. this is common for some heavier clutch kits

 

[upgrading_86]

How can you tell if the fork is worn?

 

[upgrading_86]

yea i got the same problem at a stand still right now new master and slave cylinder new tranny new clutch resurfaced flywheel.........................clutch not engaging did you ever solve your problem?

 

[90TalonDDH]

does the clutch fork move at all when the pedal is pressed? if not, you may need a longer slave push rod. this is common for some heavier clutch kits[/QUOTE

Yes the fork is moving the hydraulics all work its just that they are not..... I dont know like they are not building enough pressure is there anyway to increase the amount of pressure in the system that I am missing. Im not 100% sure that the slave is actually being fully extended and that also leads me to believe that the system does not have enough pressure

 

[killerclown1984]

The guy i bought my gsx from has had the same problem. He had to replace his master cylinder two times.

 

[90TalonDDH]

The guy i bought my gsx from has had the same problem. He had to replace his master cylinder two times.

The master cylinder is not the problem we checked. When i say we checked it i mean i pulled the hard line off the side of the master and had a friend push the pedal and fluid shot all the way across my car onto the side of my garage ( maybe 8-9 feet ) so im pretty sure that the master is in good working condition.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

So, your clutch fork is in the middle of the access window as described in TRE's WHEN, WHY & HOW TO SHIM THE PIVOT BALL Tech Tips website? If it's not in the middle and it's off to the passenger's side then you didn't shim it enough.


The extended slave rod should NEVER be used in any circumstances!

 

[90TalonDDH]

Project GS I checked the link and everything is the same as shown there so all the adjustments i have made are correct

 

[maximumbob]

How are you testing the disengagement? The design of the pressure plate causes it to reengage if the shifter fork travels too far.

 

[90TalonDDH]

How are you testing the disengagement? The design of the pressure plate causes it to reengage if the shifter fork travels too far.

Well I am starting the car then stepping on the clutch pushing it to the floor and trying to put it in gear and it just starts to kill the motor like im forcing it in but i dont slam it into gear cause i dont want to damage anything.

 

[govproperty]

Before you changed the clutch were you having any hydraulic problems or disengagement problems? If everything worked before it may be something to do with the clutch it self.

 

[90TalonDDH]

Before you changed the clutch were you having any hydraulic problems or disengagement problems? If everything worked before it may be something to do with the clutch it self.

Well the car was being driven when the trasmission exploded into pieces. The guy I bought the car from put a new motor in and when he put the tranny in he only put 16 ft. lbs. on the flywheel bolts and when he revved the motor the flywheel came off the back of the motor and bounced around in the tranny and destroyed it so in turn i put a new tranny in and flywheel and clutch kit also new clutch fork shimmed the pivot ball and then proceeded to install a new slave cylinder and master cylinder and adjusted the pedal assembly and the pedal adjustment on the master cylinder. I have bled the system with a bottle attached to a bleeder valve and still not getting enough pressure to engage the clutch so i can shift into gear.

 

[Butterfinger]

I do not consider the bottle method the proper way to bleed to get the most out of your clutch.

Did you bench bleed your master before installing? Did you bleed the master after installing?

It sounds like you just still got air in the line's. Pumping a clutch is not the way to do it. It is not the same as brake's
And yes there is a way to adjust your clutch for more travel. watch this short step by step video, it worked for me, and my clutch works better than ever.

www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/303599-clutch-dragging-hi-rev-2.html -

 

[90TalonDDH]

I do not consider the bottle method the proper way to bleed to get the most out of your clutch.

Did you bench bleed your master before installing? Did you bleed the master after installing?

It sounds like you just still got air in the line's. Pumping a clutch is not the way to do it. It is not the same as brake's
And yes there is a way to adjust your clutch for more travel. watch this short step by step video, it worked for me, and my clutch works better than ever.

www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/303599-clutch-dragging-hi-rev-2.html -

No I did not bench bleed because you are not suppose to bench bleed master cylinders only brake master cylinders or so i have been told. And that video does not really support what i am looking all though it is very informaative. And I dont know how else to bleed the system if someone could tell me how to bleed it properly

 

[caged]

if you dont bench bleed the master cyl it can take up to 4 bottles of fluid when using a vacume bleeder. I think this may be your problem.

 

[AndrewD5418]

I find it really quick and easy to bleed my clutch using speedbleeder. Nice to make it an easy one person job as well. Really hard to mess up the bleeding as well.

You got the part number?

 

[phill]

does weather have something to do with this because it has been -40 here and my clutch is doing the same thing.

Some metals expand when hot and contract when cold. At -40 its possible the threads shrunk just a tiny bit causing a leak