Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[JMiller]

Ok for some reason when when driving 15-20mph or more the clutch is fine but when I'm going under 15mph the clutch pedal is real soft and the engagement is lower. I replaced the MC, SC, clutch line, and got a new clutch installed(act 2100 w/ Resurfaced ACT streetlite flywheel) and am still having this problem. The engagement is in the right spot as long as I'm going above 15mph but when I'm at a stop light or am pulling up to a red light and it turns green and i put it gear the pedal is soft and the engagement is real close to the floor. I'm hoping its not crankwalk(mainly cause its a 98), but thats about the only thing left that it can be. Any help would be great.

Thanks.

 

[bmoha2]

Machv sells them on their website. They are cheap and work for clutch or brakes. I did not have to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder. Get rid of that slave cylinder on the front of the tranny. It's useless and only makes your clutch system use a larger volume of fluid. Get either the stainless steel clutch line that goes from the hardline under the main under hood fusebox or replace the whole line from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch actuator piston. My clutch is very very consistent and works very well with the full stainless steel clutch line. I got that line for approx 90 thru Slowboy.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Machv sells them on their website. They are cheap and work for clutch or brakes. I did not have to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder. Get rid of that slave cylinder on the front of the tranny. It's useless and only makes your clutch system use a larger volume of fluid. Get either the stainless steel clutch line that goes from the hardline under the main under hood fusebox or replace the whole line from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch actuator piston. My clutch is very very consistent and works very well with the full stainless steel clutch line. I got that line for approx 90 thru Slowboy.

You can't just delete the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is the "clutch actuator piston" you are referring to. A Stainless steel hardline from the master TO the slave is what you are referring to.


To the OP. Did you have the flywheel step height checked prior to installing? What did you torque the pressure plate bolts to?

 

[Muzda]

If you still have the rubber hose that goes to the slave cylinder that could be part of your problem. With upgraded pressure plates the rubber line tends to expand. Get a braided stainless hose from slowboy and a slave cylinder extension rod.

 

[JMiller]

One more thing, has anyone else had this problem and if so was it crankwalk or something else.
Thanks.

 

[No_Skillz]

Pump the clutch pedal rapidly for about 15-20 seconds. Does it go into gear?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

if you dont bench bleed the master cyl it can take up to 4 bottles of fluid when using a vacume bleeder. I think this may be your problem.

Wow! Where did you come up with that number??

 

[90TalonDDH]

Alright guys this weekend i am going to get back to work on it and i am going to order my stainless line and rebleed my whole system i will buy to qrts. of fluid(big bottle) and bleed the system using a vac bleeder( aka speedbleeder)

 

[tattoochuck]

Ok, here it is. we just had an ice storm where i live. i drove my car to the store and back home,clutch was working great...approx 4 hrs later i start my car but i noticed the clutch felt spongie....i can put it in all gears no prob, no fluid leaks or loss.but now the clutch lets out almost as soon as i raise my foot,(about 1"from floor) any ideas on what can be causing this?

Thank you for your time...Chuck

 

[viperlp01]

The freezing weather does it to my car. To the point were i cant put it into gear. I have to let it warm up. So i think i have air in the lines. I need to bleed it a little better.

 

[tattoochuck]

yea i noticed my car hates the cold....

 

[MichaelSuch]

You probably have a leak, check your slave and master cylinder for leaks. Add more fluid to the reservoir and bleed the system free of air.

 

[RonRonTSI]

Im having trouble engaging my clutch. I push it all the the way down and nothing but grinding. Ive bled the clutch and still got nothing. I have a act 2900with a street disk and a fidanza flywheel. Please give me some of your knowledge and tips to where I can fix this problem. Last resort will be pulling the trans. Thanks

 

[toofast82]

If you didnt bleed it per TRE instructions, do it!
How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
you may need to shim the pivot ball
TRE TECH TIPS
as well as adjusting the master cylinder under the dash.
You may need a longer clutch rod as well.
I went through all this with someone who had a similar problem and it ended up being the bleeding! He had already bled it many times but there was still air in the slave, once he got rid of it, he was good to go!
Did you just install these clutch parts new? It will most likely be one of the above

 

[92AWDHX40]

try adjusting the master under the dash, tre rebuild mine and it needed to be adjusted, lifes good again.

 

[RonRonTSI]

Yes all the clutch parts are brand new. and its been properly bled.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Did you adjust the clutch cylinder rod under the dash?

 

[RonRonTSI]

Where is it exactly? I went under there and I guess its hard to get to. If I pump the clutch pedal multiple times then it will go into gear.

 

[Defiant]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...rk-adjusting-your-clutch-killing-pump-up.html

 

[Blitz_86]

ok yesterday i drove the car up town and i parked it get back in and it seemed not to want to shift right, and when i would push the clutch in you could here this rattling ann really hard to shift then i was driving it back home i push in the clutch andlet out and it was like i dumped the clutched the car lunged foward then nothing the clutch wont engage, but the slave cylinder still moves the push rod like normal so i dont think its a hydraulic issue, im thinking my clutch fork broke but i never have had this problem. i havent evn been driving it hard. it has a spec 2+ clutch in it.
let me know what you guys think

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

well its back up and running. this was way easier than i thought it would be. just a heads up to any one else who does this, there is a nipple inside the master where the hard line comes out. my new master didn't come with it, and you need it to seal the hard line, and its pressed in, so you can't just pull it out. i ended up gutting the new master and rebuilt the old, took about 10min to do. just be careful backing the screw out on the bottom of the master. it retains the cylinder inside that has spring tenision on it, it can shot out. thanks for all the help.

 

[Splitpi]

well its back up and running. this was way easier than i thought it would be. just a heads up to any one else who does this, there is a nipple inside the master where the hard line comes out. my new master didn't come with it, and you need it to seal the hard line, and its pressed in, so you can't just pull it out. i ended up gutting the new master and rebuilt the old, took about 10min to do. just be careful backing the screw out on the bottom of the master. it retains the cylinder inside that has spring tenision on it, it can shot out. thanks for all the help.

Glad it worked out for you... now just get the peddles adjusted to the way you like it... enjoy!

 

[Blitz_86]

im thinkin my clutch fork broke or the spline in the clutch disc seperated, im going to dig into it this week sometime

 

[rhohan72]

I wanted to mention the fix for this, as it may be helpful to someone.

The problem with my car was that i was actually throwing the clutch too far. My flywheel was machined too low (i'm assuming), and the clutch was being pushed in, disengaging, then reengaging after.

I got a stock replacement flywheel for now, and it is working fine.

edit: can't spell

 

[Auto RS T]

Sounds like the throwout bearing may have come apart and now the clutch is stuck engaged. Seeing that your hydraulics appear to be functioning, the problem is most likely inside the bellhousing.