Clutch stuck to floor then gears started grinding

[Matrout218]

Started off when I launched my car, it had a quick stutter and a clicking noise and just felt bad, didn't bog but it just wasn't anywhere near as good as it normally feels, but drove fine afer that for about 10 mins until a buddy came decided to downshift and randomly fly by me, well down shift and clutch pedal stuck to the floor for a couple seconds when it came back finally I accellerated went to shift and had to force it in gear took me probably 10 seconds just to force it in and grinded until I let go of clutch petal and it engaged so now it's hard to get in all gears and if clutch pedals pushed while in gear it grinds no matter what...asuming it's clutch because Its still stock clotch and I've beat the hell out of it (a handfull of antilag launches with 18 pounds off the line) And then 5k rpm regular launch control was what i normally use and launchd atleast 1ce a week. O yeah and Its a awd 2gb tsi. So since I'm a broke mfer ( hence why clutch is still stock) I wanted to make sure it's clutch before I finally drop the money for one, I'm probably 95% sure it's clutch but wanna see if any other options

 

[g4ebguy90]

Usually I think if a clutch goes bad, the car just free revs and don't go anywhere. I think you have a pressure plate, or slave cyl/throwout bearing issue. I would just tear into it, probaly take 2 hours to pull trans. Inspect it.

 

[DOHCTA]

Clutch slave cylinder is probably your issue. How many miles on are on the stock clutch? Check for leaks from the Clutch master cylinder (firewall) to the slave cylinder mouned to your clutch fork at the front of your transmission. I wouldn't EVER force the car into gear as you may be destroying your syncros by doing so. If you're having problems with that, check the pedal assembly. You shouldn't have more than a half inch of free play in the pedal, and 2g's have an adjustable pedal so check the push rod that goes throug the firewall for dot 3 or 4 fluid leaking. Then check to see if you have a clutch dragging issue to solve the hard shifting problem. I believe there are a ton of write ups on the tech forums here and you can even check out on youtube (jafro) on how to adjust your clutch pedal, even pull the transmission.

Keep us posted.

 

[Matrout218]

Hmm well that's good to know actually, because I'm not looking to spend much more money on the damn car, I wanna actually get some go fast parts in stead of being at a dead end like I've been for the past 6 months with stupid crap breaking although I might just stay convinced it's clutch so I finally drop the money on a good clutch like I should have done some time ago

 

[g4ebguy90]

Once you fix all the problems, and do the basic maintence, and get her running like you need it to, then you get the go fast parts.

 

[Matrout218]

And yeah I didn't like forcing it into gears how ever I just got pissed and wanted to get it home, I'll be driving my Taurus until I get a day off to check crap out, and there's probably around 30k miles on the clutch which a few of my buddies don't bielive it's stock with as hard as I launch it with out having any issues of it slipping
but my brother who originally had the car said when he replaced it he put in another stock clutch so I guess I should believe him

 

[DJ23GSX]

When you pull the tranny inspect the clutch fork and pivot ball for excessive wear. I had a similar issue when my clutch fork bent and then finally snapped.

 

[gusu]

I had my act 2100 lose a spring it ran for about 2 weeks before destroying the flywheel to the point it wouldn't disengage anymore. Although it never fully disengaged after the spring popped out.

 

[DOHCTA]

When you pull the tranny inspect the clutch fork and pivot ball for excessive wear. I had a similar issue when my clutch fork bent and then finally snapped.

To shed some light on excessive wear, you're looking for guages from debris or flat spots on both the pivot ball or throw out bearing. These friction parts need to operate smoothly, so check for resistence in the shifter linkages from the engine bay and the clutch fork.

But if you want to avoid pulling the transmission to inspect the clutch, check ALL your fluid levels. The problem may only be that slave cylinder I suspect.

Have a look here to help identify stuff and their pricing;

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/home.php?cat=402

(link may not work)

 

[Matrout218]

Thanks to all the replys. very helpfull. Yeah I planed on checking all the fluids and stuff first and if it ends up comming down to having to pull tranny itle probably be this weekend because I have yet to mess with tranny so I'll have my friend who has had to have his tranny out more than a few times and is pretty quick at it now, I'll have him kinda guide me on that one (I'm very over paranoid when it comes to working on my car so big stuff I like to have help my first time) but I'm gonna hope it dosent have to to that far yet until I'm ready, again thanks for all the replys will update when I start figuring things out

 

[JAX2Ganey]

Bet its your slave or master cylinder. If youre broke, why are you beating on your car? You should think about consequences before you take action.

 

[DJ23GSX]

Thanks to all the replys. very helpfull. Yeah I planed on checking all the fluids and stuff first and if it ends up comming down to having to pull tranny itle probably be this weekend because I have yet to mess with tranny so I'll have my friend who has had to have his tranny out more than a few times and is pretty quick at it now, I'll have him kinda guide me on that one (I'm very over paranoid when it comes to working on my car so big stuff I like to have help my first time) but I'm gonna hope it dosent have to to that far yet until I'm ready, again thanks for all the replys will update when I start figuring things out

I've owned dsm's for over 10years now and believe it or not I just swapped my first dsm tranny this past spring. I read the forums a good bit to get familiar with what I was doing first but in all honesty I did the entire job myself in my driveway and it wasn't nearly as difficult as I was expecting. The hardest part for me was trying get the tranny lined up with the bolt holes on the block by myself. There was a lot of cussing and cursing that day . With 2 guys and one of them with experience pulling the tranny should be a breeze. You might want to try bleeding the clutch system before you go pulling the tranny.

If youre broke, why are you beating on your car? You should think about consequences before you take action.

Amen to that.

 

[galantlvr34]

Check the clutch master cylinder if it is alright then check the slave cylinder you should be able to push it in with your hand.The clutch could be gone too.How many miles are on the car and is it a 6 bolt or 7 bolt?If everything else is good it is possible you can have crank walk.

 

[dsmpowerof1]

I had the exact same problem from my gst, the clutch slowly quit working until finally the pedal stuck to the floor. I replaced only the slave cylinder and then the clutch hardline because the damn pipe is so brittle. Try that first, I replaced mine, bled it A LOT and now my clutch works great, not as great as before but still very well. Start simple, normally it's the small things that cause issues.

 

[Revmoto]

You might just have a leak in your clutch line. Search for fluid and bleed the line as that is your cheapest fix.

 

[vash_1010]

I've owned dsm's for over 10years now and believe it or not I just swapped my first dsm tranny this past spring. I read the forums a good bit to get familiar with what I was doing first but in all honesty I did the entire job myself in my driveway and it wasn't nearly as difficult as I was expecting. The hardest part for me was trying get the tranny lined up with the bolt holes on the block by myself. There was a lot of cussing and cursing that day . With 2 guys and one of them with experience pulling the tranny should be a breeze. You might want to try bleeding the clutch system before you go pulling the tranny.



Amen to that.

I agree on the PITA line up. Apparently the guy before me thought so too. Horible weld on the BH and worse weld where he busted the BH mount to block. Apparently he thought the dowel pins and metal bushings were for looks. Either way its not too bad besides that, make friends, put them to work. Last resort pull the tranny. Our cars are getting old, check lines, Salve and Master. I would invest in a new clutch. just my .2

 

[Nasty Dream]

I had the same issue, it was my slave cylinder, I think. My clutch fluid was leaking and I kept filling it.

The shop replaced the slave twice. I was angry because they used a rebuilt or aftermarket part or whatever the first time, but charged me for the new part. I'm not sure if they replaced the master as well.

But I decided to replace the clutch at that time, I think. I got the ACT 2600 with street disc. That was about 8 years ago and haven't had problems since.


Anyway, the first thing you do is check your clutch fluid. It's here:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can pop off the top with a flathead screwdriver. It's not threaded, it's suction that holds it on. Don't jam the screwdriver deep under the lid or you'll damage the diaphragm on the inside.

Here's are the min/max lines: http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...0c152/80/0a/d5/17//small/0900c152800ad517.jpg

It uses standard brake fluid, believe it or not.

- DON'T get dirt inside
- DON'T get brake fluid on painted surfaces, it will damage paint.

First find out if it leaks by monitoring the fluid level and looking under the car when it's parked for a while. Usually, it accumulates on the bottom of one of the cylinders, instead of dripping much. So it can be hard to tell without inspecting the cylinders, when the car is on a lift.

Here's a pic of the slave cylinder: http://streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/a/oem_dsm_2g_slave_cylinder.jpg

Here's a pic of the slave cylinder on a car (IGNORE the arrow, I grabbed this image somewhere else). http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/clutch/2gclutchline-install05.jpg

The slave cylinder is the gray thing in the center of the image.

If the fluid gets low again you know you have a leak somewhere. Fill it back up, and then you should be able to drive your car to the shop to have it fixed.

Hopefully the images all work, but you can just search using the terms I've used.

I would just tear into it, probaly take 2 hours to pull trans. Inspect it.

Holy crap I laughed so hard

 

[jesse_fc3]

you're a retard why didn't you just ask me....

 

[Matrout218]

So I'm for sure buying a clutch..clutch Is the what I'm thinking it is..^^jesse said when his clutch went out it was doing the same thing and it was a spring that broke and was scraping the fly wheel, which makes sense because I was wondering about flywheel because when clutch is in, in gear and you put it in neutral the grinding noise whindes down to a stop...won't know for sure till trans is out but that's what we've narrowed it down to, and either way I'm gonna get a clutch since trans is comming out anyway. also the shifter cable bracket had a bolt missing from it which was causing some of my shifting troubles however it's still takes some force to get it gear but it did help alot. Will update when everythings figured out but that's what it's narrowed down to at this point, thanks for all the replys though they were helpful to get a idea