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1gDSM4g63

15+ Year Contributor
1,808
14
Aug 28, 2007
San Jose, California
Right now my head is ported and I'm running BC 280s, Manley spring w/ Ti retainer on a 2.0L 9.1 compression. I redline fairly safe to 8500, but better top end for my turbo. I've heard that bee-MAD or kiggly springs with bronze valve can be revved to about 10,000 safely with no reduction in spring rate or pressure, but what extent can a 2.0L go to?
 
I don't believe anyone (Jake Montgomery, Kiggly himself, etc) has reached the limits of the Kiggly springs, in my opinion they are definitely the way to go (we did). In regards to considerations to be made with respect to the engine lightweight components are always better and balancing becomes more and more important as you increase the RPM's, but the 2.0l has seen over 10k RPM's many times over the years...
 
I can't say that I have ever heard of a crankshaft failure related to high RPM's, Brent Rau and others are running OEM crankshafts without issue to the best of my knowledge. In regards to rod bolts I would imagine you would run into issues with the OEM bolts but any aftermarket rod will utilize the ARP2000 or better rod bolts and again, I can't say I'm aware of a rod bolt failulre from high RPM. Then again, there are very few people actually revving that high...
 
my engine is a 9-1 wiseco/eagle 2.0 balanced and blue printed, ported and polished head, 1mm over sized valves, bc 280 cams, buschur racing valve springs and locks, sheet metal intake with a pte 607-grls (before my flywheel came apart and trashed it) and I been turning my car 9500 since day one, it runs good from 4000 to 6500 but from 6500 to 9500 it pulls very hard and go's threw the gears fast, with 280 cams you give up a lot of bottom end torque but makes up for it up top. with some aftermarket valve spring I would not be scared to twist the nut off of it :rocks:
 
Right now my head is ported and I'm running BC 280s, Manley spring w/ Ti retainer on a 2.0L 9.1 compression. I redline fairly safe to 8500, but better top end for my turbo. I've heard that bee-MAD or kiggly springs with bronze valve can be revved to about 10,000 safely with no reduction in spring rate or pressure, but what extent can a 2.0L go to?

I am sure you've seen it, but look here;/first two gears/.

YouTube - John Shepherd's 7sec DSM NO NOS! 8/15/2006 (Inner View)

BTW, are there two different kinds of Beehive springs, cause the ones, that FP sells are$280, compared to $400+ for the others- Kiggly and FFWD.
 
I can't say that I have ever heard of a crankshaft failure related to high RPM's, Brent Rau and others are running OEM crankshafts without issue to the best of my knowledge. In regards to rod bolts I would imagine you would run into issues with the OEM bolts but any aftermarket rod will utilize the ARP2000 or better rod bolts and again, I can't say I'm aware of a rod bolt failulre from high RPM. Then again, there are very few people actually revving that high...

Brent Rau runs the magnus billet race crank according to there website.

Main thing to keep in mind when revving high is rotational mass. Sure the springs and retainers are important so they don't bind but rotating assembly plays a very large portion. Aluminum rods and a lightened crank and flywheel is what helps you rev higher. Energy would have to travel to from the rod to the bearing and then when the bearing makes contact with the crank is there any excessive force applied to the rod bolts. Most likely knock and bearing failure before the rod bolts go.
 
. . .Energy would have to travel to from the rod to the bearing and then when the bearing makes contact with the crank is there any excessive force applied to the rod bolts. Most likely knock and bearing failure before the rod bolts go.

On the exhaust stroke all that momentum from the rod moving at such a high velocity has to be held by the rod bolts or the rod would push the piston into the head. At the end of the exhast stroke, TDC, the rod bolts are under tremendous tensile stress at high rpms
 
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