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valve clearence issue - available head gasket thicknesses?

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talon20g

15+ Year Contributor
206
6
Mar 21, 2007
WHITAKERS, North Carolina
I've spent the better part of the year sending parts out for machining, buying everything, and making sure it was right the first time. Finally got the motor together and put the timing belt on and have a valve to piston clearence issue. The head has BC 280's, BC springs and retainers, bronze guides, 1mm o/s ss valves and I have about 30 hours worth of porting and polishing that I did. The bottom end consist of manley rods and wiesco .020 over pistons. Yes the timing is right. It's not my first time around the block. My question is what are my options? I'm so pissed right now I don't know how to handle this other than a thicker gasket. By the way I have a Mitsu MLS (.067 thick) up there right now. Starting over is not an option. I took out a loan for this build and I work full time and go to school full time. What's the thickest gasket you know of?
 
1mm oversized valves can cause interference, but you knew this right;) Thats why you make sure your head is good and flat along with your block. This way, little to no material has to be removed from the block or head. If the surface of a dsm block and head are cleaned appropriately then no resurfacing is necessary, unless of course either are not flat. O.K. go at me now, however the stock mitsu composite gasket on the factory surfacing has supported well over 40 psi. Cleaning up the original surface real good, using arp head studs, and a stock composite head-gasket has proven to be an amazing combination in my life. So now the mls head-gasket boys can chime in. While the NABR tech archives were still public I was able to build some awsome projects, all the secrets were there. Good luck, you'll sort it out.
 
Well..... Uh...... DAMN! I put two flywheel bolts in and a pry bar between them to hold the crank still while I torqued the timing gear bolt for the front. Yeah I forgot to take the flywheel bolts out and they were hitting the engine stand. But thanks alot and sorry to bother ya'll with a BS mistake. I guess after 130-150hrs in the motor I thought the worst had happened. But thanks again.
 
Well..... Uh...... DAMN! I put two flywheel bolts in and a pry bar between them to hold the crank still while I torqued the timing gear bolt for the front. Yeah I forgot to take the flywheel bolts out and they were hitting the engine stand. But thanks alot and sorry to bother ya'll with a BS mistake. I guess after 130-150hrs in the motor I thought the worst had happened. But thanks again.

cool, but on a side note SCE makes a thick 2.36mm.
 
2.36mm Wow. Thats getting thick. Who said you have to buy lower you compression by changing the pistons. Slap one of those up there and bam.
 
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