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Head/Valve issue

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kyanox

20+ Year Contributor
52
0
Feb 17, 2003
Missoula, Montana
Hi everyone. Before i begin I just want to say, i've owned my talon now for about 2 years. By no means an expert, but I've been through this motor 3 times, and have yet to find the cause.

History: I bought my talon 2 years ago from a guy cheap, 100 bucks the car had bent valves. So i pulled the motor, tore it down, and completely rebuilt it. No issue there, except i got the motor back in, and the head makes a loud tapping noise. I pulled that head and block to find number 3 piston had unevenly worn in, and number 4 valves were bent. So i ordered a JDM motor from ebay.

Big mistake.... I should have read the threads deeper on here. That motor came in with alternating compression, sometimes 150, sometimes nothing.

So i pulled that motor took the whole thing in to the machine shop.

They redid the bottom end and the top end. But for some reason didn't put the 2 together.

Bottom end i used an ebay kit, top line complete, pistons, rings, bearings, my 1g rods were bored out for 2g pistons so i had to use the other set of 1g rods i had.

Skipping to the fun part. I followed the official 4g63 manual found in pdf form to reassemble the motor, and the TSB for the timing belt. I got the marks lined up, Every mark lined up perfectly, used the two tools to set the timing to what it specified, and tested by rotating the entire assembly 6 times. All marks lined up, no interference without spark plugs, it spun like a dream.

Even let the motor sit for 2 hours and respec'd the auto tensioner, it was at .15 inch.

The timing belt didn't seem to have too much play.

Anyway so i get the motor back together, go to fire it up, its making that same loud ticking noise on the top end. Sounds a lot like lifter noise, so i thought perhaps it would go away.

My guess, it's not lifter noise as the car is now out in the driveway, no compression, and my guess bent valves.

Timing was dead on, i checked it a total of 5 times. The car drove home, just what i thought was lifter noise, i was even able to hit 8psi boost, i didn't want to take it much over that for fear of blowing it up, and reading the break in doc on the site, most ppl thought 8-14psi was about right. I couldn't seem to get over 10psi though.. 16g turbo.

Here's my thought. The machine shop screwed up the cam's? Maybe putting the intake and exhaust backwards. Or something in the bottom end went. Either way they did the work on both.

Any ideas.. Anything i can try before just calling them and telling them to come get it?

By the way, when i tried timing it, i couldn't get it to adjust below 10deg top dead center, which makes me suspect screwed up cams.
 
Are you sure you tensioned the belt correctly? If you leave more slack on one side than the other, on decel the timing can jump.

How far are you from Missoula? I have a buddy up there with a DSM, hed be happy to look at it.
 
Im fairly sure, i followed the TSB exactly as it was set from mitsubishi.

Im in great falls, so it would be a trip..

I really don't want to take this thing to the machine shop, and I do have another head i could have them clean up and check out, my big issue is if I am screwing something up i don't want to go through another 300 bucks again doing a head.

Cometic head gasket, arp studs so I should be ok, though i hate reusing head gaskets and I do have 2 graphites ones, but I didn't buy the cometic gasket for fun.
 
Whatd you torque the ARPs to?

What does a compression test show?

The cams can really only go one way. The intake has a slot for the CAS and the exhaust doesnt.
 
I torqued the arps to 80 foot pounds.

As for cams, I seem to recall, and i will have to check in the morning but i think both cams have notches in them. I found this rather odd.

Would that explain why there wasnt much power while driving?

I have a spare head I can put on it, I just don't want to attempt it, if something else is going to cause it to crash. Its dirty as hell but the local shop can hot tank it cheap.

Wierd thing on comp test was, 131, 131,131,131 so the head was fairly perfect, EXCEPT 131 is really low. I ran it twice, throttle wide open just to be sure.
 
Just tossing this out there, if your not building a race engine. I personally would go with a OEM HG...




Your right though that is pretty odd, if both cams had slots.
 
The cams are right, one isn't slotted my mistake.

As for the cometic head gasket, it sealed nicely, no leaks, nothing...

Would crashed valves lock the motor up solid? It's now siezed...
 
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