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ECMlink Using NLTS as a Launch Control?

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CrackedDSM

15+ Year Contributor
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5,729
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
So, kind of a dumb question. So I'll ask the question first, then tell you why.


Can I use the NLTS setting in ECMLink in place of the "launch limit"?


Why: Because I'm an old man, I really like setting my launch limit at 2500RPM. So for those steep incline starts at a stoplight, I don't have to worry about feathering the throttle, slipping the clutch, and letting go of the brakes at the perfect time. It makes driving a M/T essentially thought-free. I love it. Floor the gas and it keeps it at a civil and quiet 2500rpm, and you just slip the clutch. Done. Perfect start every single time.

However, it's really...really annoying that I have to bust out the laptop to change it every time I want to make a 0-60 run. And if I was to feel the need to launch when I was out and about without my laptop...I wouldn't be able to. 2500RPM limit.


So yeah...can this be done? Can I leave the launch limit at 2500 for driving around town, but use NLTS for when I want to make a solid rip? Or is there a better way to do this? Back in the Keydiver days, Jeff would program your chip with an adjustable launch limit just using the gas pedal and key on/engine off. Wish ECMLink had something like that.
 
Can I use the NLTS setting in ECMLink in place of the "launch limit"?
I am not sure if ECMLink would allow you to set the NLTS below the launch limiter RPM, but if it does allow then yes, technically you can. But you will lose the NLTS feature for shifting (or would require to change the setting each time you need), and probably you would have to use another switch to trigger the NLTS instead of the clutch switch. Because slipping the clutch, you would need to control it through the clutch pedal and the NLTS usually use the clutch switch. So if you move the clutch pedal more than the NLTS switching point, you may accidentally activate/deactivate the NLTS feature unless you use another switch for the NLTS.

I assume that you want to have a rev limiter for hill starts. Beside if it works as you expect, if I were you, I would try with an external rev limiter like aftermarket 2 step launch controller or so. Then connecting to the E-brake switch or make a new switch only for this purpose. And if it's 2 step limiter, another channel canceled or set it above the main limiter RPM not to bother the ECMLink setting.
In this case, you would be able to keep and still use all 3 ECMLink's rev limiters, the main, launch, NLTS as they should. And you can have one more rev limiter independently from ECMLink only when you need. .And it doesn't require to connect the laptop to change the setting, you can usually change the setting on the limiter unit. It just my opinion though.
 
NLTS is NOT for daily driving. It should lower the rpms to below your rev limit enuf to allow the shift to perform without lifting off the throttle, which, I think is also variable. But for WOT use. My launch limit is HIGH because of a lightweight clutch/flywheel assembly. If I "trust" it, then the car will turn all 4 shortly and grab and go. I've been doing some practice too with this "on/off" twin disk.
NLTS is a nice feature when used appropriately tho! You gotta TRUST the computer and switches all do their thing tho! 🙏
 
I am not sure if ECMLink would allow you to set the NLTS below the launch limiter RPM, but if it does allow then yes, technically you can. But you will lose the NLTS feature for shifting (or would require to change the setting each time you need), and probably you would have to use another switch to trigger the NLTS instead of the clutch switch. Because slipping the clutch, you would need to control it through the clutch pedal and the NLTS usually use the clutch switch. So if you move the clutch pedal more than the NLTS switching point, you may accidentally activate/deactivate the NLTS feature unless you use another switch for the NLTS.

I assume that you want to have a rev limiter for hill starts. Beside if it works as you expect, if I were you, I would try with an external rev limiter like aftermarket 2 step launch controller or so. Then connecting to the E-brake switch or make a new switch only for this purpose. And if it's 2 step limiter, another channel canceled or set it above the main limiter RPM not to bother the ECMLink setting.
In this case, you would be able to keep and still use all 3 ECMLink's rev limiters, the main, launch, NLTS as they should. And you can have one more rev limiter independently from ECMLink only when you need. .And it doesn't require to connect the laptop to change the setting, you can usually change the setting on the limiter unit. It just my opinion though.

I was thinking about just getting a WOTbox or whatever other little aftermarket "two step" device, but was hoping I could use Link instead.

Makes sense. Appreciate it, Hiroshi! If I feel froggy, I may try it anyway just to see, and report back. I don't ever plan on actually using NLTS ever as I want my driveline to last as long as possible.
 
Muscle memory is your friend. Until you change your shoes.

I've got a bunch of shoes I can't drive in at all, pretty much anything clunky but Piloti's are too costly to walk around it all the time. The worst are work boots, can't feel a thing in them.
 
Muscle memory is your friend. Until you change your shoes.

(coming from 26+ years of daily driving a DSM)

The thing is, this thing likes to pick random times where it doesn’t want to idle anymore. So I have to brake, clutch, and keep the engine running. I’m also easily embarrassed so I don’t wanna just rev the piss out of it to keep it alive. Lol. It’s easy af when the car decides it’s feeling benevolent and idles great.


The other part of that pie is if it DOES die, trying to hot restart it is a nightmare.

So yeah. It’s the hardest manual I’ve ever had to drive honestly. Taking one of those things out of the equation makes it easy. Easiest one is the 2500rpm launch limiter.


And before anyone is a smart ass, I have deep dove into the problem. I have compression tested, I’ve BLT’ed until my pump broke and bought another stronger one, I’ve checked, rechecked, and double rechecked both mechanical and computer timing, I have checked BISS settings, logged ISC values, etc.

It’s honestly just gonna be the way it is. Either the flywheel combo with these terrible cams are the culprit or it’s some other ghost/gremlin. So I don’t want to hear a lecture about how I should “just fix the idle”. I’ve tried. Lol.
 
Just fix the idle.....;)
Poke, poke the bear. JK. I know it's been a battle. I have some issues like that too that I also say, well, at least I am driving it!
 
Just fix the idle.....;)
Poke, poke the bear. JK. I know it's been a battle. I have some issues like that too that I also say, well, at least I am driving it!

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:p
 

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Well if figuring out the idle issue is a no go then i would say some sort of secondary box. For instance like a ARC2 with the rev limit set then the activation wire is grounded. Then link can still do the normal 2 step when arc2 box wire is not grounded.
 
At this point most of us on this site are too.
Why I’m looking for a Auto DSM.

Florida is pretty flat. You north or south of Tampa? Haven’t considered this before and we’re I live is the most hills I have ever seen in the state.

I’m west of tampa. I’m in Pensacola. Basically where the southern tip of Alabama touches Florida. There’s more “waves” in the road than one would think. I hesitate to call them hills though.
 
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