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(UKO) Unidentified knocking object. And pop.

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AW4G63

20+ Year Contributor
2,000
9
Apr 11, 2002
TommyPantsdownville, Ohio
OK, Well I have posted this in the past and im back again. I have a ongoing knocking noise clanking and clanking. I have been going nuts and done a few things to try to diagnose this problem.

Heres what happens:

Im Stopped
I put the car in gear and release the clutch and start to move.
A faint knock is heard (clunck clunck clunck) (only when torque is on the driveline)
depress clutch, sound is gone.
go to 2nd gear and release clutch, clunck is heard faster.
depress clutch, clunck is gone.
release , clunck is cluncking in 3rd.
depress clutch clunck is gone and shift to 4th.
Clunck is now gone or im going to fast to hear it (road noise, exhaust ect.)

-----also----After a month of this cluncking noise this started----

Lets say im in 4th gear low RPM and I go full throttle, as boost builds up and I start to really move once I get to a high rpm there is a large "POP"

Only at high speeds.
(4th gear 2,000rpm= vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr"POP"rrrrrrrrrrrrr"POP"rrrrrrmmmmmmm , shift to 5th vrrrrrrrrrr"pop" rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr"pop"rrrrrrrrrr)

Sounds like it is coming from the front right area, but others who ride in the passenger side say it sounds like the rear and others say the front.

/\ hope that helped.


Things I have done to find problem.
Shaked front CVs
Shaked driveshaft
Didnt find exsessive play in either.

Just had buschur install a clutch & flywheel (act2600 & fidanaza alum fly)
I thought maybe it lied with in the clutch & flywheel but I was wrong.

I brought one of Buschurs guys for a ride yesterday but between my exhaust and pouring rain we could not hear much. But I didnt mention the "pop" because I thought the clutch fixed that, I found out it was still there on my 45 minute ride home.

Any thing you think could be a factor would be a GIANT help.

I think I may bring it back to Buschur to find and fix it. Those guys are very fast and great to deal with. And the fact that they know their shit like no one else sure does help.

This weekend Im going to check my U joints and anything else you think may be the cause.


Thanks guys.
Tom







I honestly have not a clue , Another member has this same problem, Im going to see if he will post here. Maybe between the two of us and some of you we can figure this out.:thumb:
 
A quick question regarding the shifter movement fix in VFAQ.
On my car, when I removed the tranny cover, one of the gear attached to the top gearset just fell off..

It looks like this gear is only attached by means of pressure from the wave washer. So, the wave washer pushes this gear onto the outer end of the top gearset.
The wave washer is attached to the cover, and is mentioned in the VFAQ at the end.
The car drives fine, but I was just wondering if that gear is supposed to fall off like that ( when the cover is removed ).

Thanks in advance.
 
That doesnt sound good. LOL I always say if it drives its fine. :D

But then again look at this whole post.
 
That doesnt sound good. LOL I always say if it drives its fine.

Hehe.. I actually checked with one of my gvr4 buddy who has done that fix as well. He said that one of his brass colored gear also came off, and simply put in place by means of the pressure from the wave washers..

So, looks like it is normal.. at least it's the same on both of our cars..

BTW, I'm starting to wonder if this is due to the driveshaft. Have you guys checked the rear carrier bearing ?
Mine has some play, but the driveshaft doesn't seem to be touching anything. VFAQ has a procedure on stiffening the carrier bearing by filling it up with silicone caulk.
AW4G63: Let me know the condition of your rear carrier bearing.
 
Well today I was under the car.


I rolled the driveshaft back and forth. The results suprised me, The U joints are tight. The carrier seems fine. But my transfer case is leaking oil once again........FOCKERS! I just had this fixed in May of 02. I think the car was leaking forever then when I bought it in Feb 02 , I noticed it. After long arguements with Satan they fixed it free of charge. Well you get what you pay for.

When rolling my shaft I noticed a crunkeling noise coming from the Tcase area. I performed this test by jacking up the front wheels only and rolling the shaft. It had about 1 inch of play which I assume is fine, but it makes an odd noise. But I guess thats just the gears moving inside of it. Im gunna dig deaper but have you had any run ins with your Tcase?
 
I wonder if our transfer case was somehow broken because of the leak.

BTW, my issue started a week after I swapped the rear diff with an LSD unit, and followed by a ski trip for about 600 miles..
I think the noise started after I came home from the ski trip, not immediately after the rear diff swap.

I'll check the fluid on my transfer case. Although I just topped it off like a month ago. And will also check the play on the transfer case that you mentioned..

Can you describe how exactly you did the check again ?
 
Ok... add me to this thread. I have the exact same problem.

There is a little vibration in 1st gear, then i vibrates like mad in 2nd at about 25-30 mph. After about 30 mph or so the sound goes away. It sounds like its coming directly below the shifter (somewhere around the t-case or the front portion of the driveshaft).

My car vibrates worst when its warm outside and my car is warm. Anyone esle experience more severe vibrations at warmer temps?

I also have a leaky t-case. I didnt realize it until about 4 months ago when I put in my TRE tranny and ACT clutch. There was about a half of a cup fluid in it. Since then Ive been keeping a close eye on it.

I have checked the front axels and the play in the driveshaft. The carrier bearings and axels checked out fine. There is a little too much play in the driveshaft (about 2 inches). What causes excess play in the driveshaft (u-joint?)?

This weekend Im going to jack my car up off of all four tires and drive crawl under the car while someone drives it for me. Im hoping to solve this by the weekend.
 
My noise is more of a clunck/thump/card in the spoke noise. Its deep but not vibrating. It does seem to be alot more present when its warm out. Im thinking of bringing it to the dealership to get a free quote, then fix it myself or blow up the car.LOL

Lurker- I didnt check the fluid, I just checked play in the shaft. If its leaking you will see sprayed fluid all around the neck of the Tcase, right at the first U joint on the drive shaft.
 
Im bringing my car to the dealer after work. (In 3 hours).

I will know the status of it tomorrow, I believe the Tcase is wasted. But lets see what they come up with.
 
AW4G63-

What dealership is giving you a free diagnosis? I called two mitsubishi dealerships around the minneapolis area and they wanted 89.99 to diagnose the problem.

Also, when I said vibration, I actually meant a rapid thump/thud from underneath the car. The thumping is so violent that it vibrates the floor in my car.
 
Im gunna go with Lurker on that one. Get under your car and shake,twist the drive shaft. See whats up with it.

The Dealer shot me down, they said I have to go to the dealer that replaced it last time. I dont even feel like fighting with them. Im buying a Tcase for my car as soon as I know thats the problem. I have to bring my car in next friday (week OMG) Maybe I can move it to monday....

Im gunna call.
 
Why would you buy a t-case. There is a safety recall on our t-cases. Because its a safety recall there is a lifetime warranty on the t-case. There is a thread on the dsmtalk discussion board about this. If they try and make you pay for a new transfercase, bi*** at them and call mitsubishis 1-800 number and NTSHA's 1-800 number.

A new transfer case is something like $1500.

Also, the noises you guys are experiencing at all speeds in 1st and 2nd, or only at certain speeds? Does it matter how hard you are accelerating?

My car only makes noise in all of 1st gear, then only the 25-30 mph range in second gear (where the thumping gets really violent)... then it stops. Also there is no play in my carrier bearings. It doesnt depend on how fast im accelerating.
 
Mine only makes noise on 1st and 2nd gear.
It doesn't matter how fast I'm accelerating, as far as I'm on the throttle ( i.e. not completely off the throttle, cruising to slow down ).

It doesn't seem to be speed dependent nor rpm dependent.

The noise would completely go away in 3rd.
 
Originally posted by Lurker
Mine only makes noise on 1st and 2nd gear.
It doesn't matter how fast I'm accelerating, as far as I'm on the throttle ( i.e. not completely off the throttle, cruising to slow down ).

It doesn't seem to be speed dependent nor rpm dependent.

The noise would completely go away in 3rd.

Yep, same here. Im going to examine my car better this weekend. Im also going to try the silicon injection like vfaq suggests. Im hoping that its just the carrier bearings, but there doesnt seem to be any play in them. Either way, I need to get my t-case leak fixed.
 
I know all about the Recall, Ive had it done. I would rather buy a Tcase and do the work myself then let those idiots fock up my car again.

I spoke with a reliable guy that has one for $150 with low miles on it. This weekend Im going to hunt for metal shaving & any other signs of wear & tear. And if that fails im gunna try out my ACT2600 & Alum Flywheel on it....That should let me know where that pesky problem is when I drop a 5K rpm launch on it. ;)
 
I ignored my problem all weekend.....Im waiting for it to explode....
 
LOL :D

I understand your frustration.. That's what I've been feeling as well..
If we wait till something locks up, or explodes, then the diagnosis will be THAT much easier.

I'm still planning to do the silicone treatment on the rear carrier bearing though.. Ijust didn't get to do it this weekend. I worked on my other car instead.
 
mine sounded exactly like your guys'. It would be a clunking that got faster as I went down the road with the popping sound when I would change loads on the driveline. What I found out eventually:
The bearings on either end of the 1-2 shaft had gone bad allowing the shaft to wobble, causing the clunking sound.
The shaft also was grinding out the side of the case-halve.
The gears were just intermeshed on the very ends of the teeth and destroying each other slowly.

To make a long story short, the tranny was not rebuildable and took the clutch/flywheel out with it.

Cost me me $4200 to get the car back on the road again w/ a brand new tranny, act 2100 and flywheel.

Hope it isnt the same for you guys, but just giving you a heads up on what mine turned out to be.

Good Luck.
 
I think its my tranny, im just in denial.......Thanks man....I need to pull my car apart.
 
Im almost positive its not my tranny. I only have about 4k on my new TRE transmission. I highly doubt that the roller bearings are already going bad. Also my the noise that my car makes doesnt depend on load. (no popping noise during load). It only occurs at certain road speeds and is very repeatable.

Im almost positive that it is my carrier bearings. Im going to do the silicon fill this weekend if I have time. Im too damn busy at school to go home and mess around with it.

Ill let you all know if the silicon fill fixes the problem. I suggest everyone try it (cant do any harm :thumb: ).
 
Lurker; The brass ring that fell off when you took the cover off isn't a gear. Thats a syncro. Also the problem with the transfer case, doesn't even have anything to do with the transfer case or the seal. It the damn yoke on the front of the driveshaft. It has a plug in the back of it that leaks its ass off. You can ethier go get a new yoke for $40 or put some JB weld over the plug, of course after cleaning it really good. I just replaced mine on both of my cars and two years later, WOW no lost fuild from the transfer case.
 
I just top my transfercase fluid off everytime I change the oil. My leak isnt very bad though. It usually takes about 1/2 cup every 2.5k.
 

Hmm.. it's now a good time to argue whether or not a Galant VR-4 is DSM :D

Anyway, I went to the dealership today, hoping they can fix my leaking transfer case under recall warranty.
Even with a call to Mitsubishi from their service desk, they still wouldn't do it. The service manager said it was checked before ( two years ago by previous owner). It wasn't leaking at that time, but it's still a one time deal.

The best he can do is to _maybe_ cover the cost of parts, but I will have to pay for the initial inspection ( 99 bucks! ) and also the actual repair labor.

I'll just get it fixed by myself. Maybe I'll go pull a transfer case from a junkyard or something. It's not worth my time to call around to try to get it fixed for free.
 
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