knocking and pulling timing.

[dsmfocker]

ok have a little problem, i have a 91 talon turbo basically stock just has a greddy porfect 2 boost controller in it and a K&N so basically stock... so i was drving my car with 15psi and was running good. then i let it sit for about 5-6 hours then i was drving it and it wont boost anymore. as soon as i would get into the boost range it was like the motor was knocking or it was pulling the timing way out of the car... there is a couple of timings if i slowly get on it and it will pull all the way through with 15psi but when i would shift it would happen again any ideas?

 

[brute]

You should probably begin by turning the boost down. Your stock fuel system may be working against you at this point. Once the boost is down, try another pull. If it still does it, try doing the normal tests. You can do a boost leak test, exhaust leak test, and such. If this still does not fix it, you can try a few other things that'll narrow it down. You check fuel supply, spark, etc.
Even if a boost leak isn't causing this exact problem, I'm sure you have some. Couplers simply cannot be shaken around from 100k+ miles of driving and not leak.
Just start with the simple stuff first, and report back to us.

 

[dsmfocker]

the boost is at 10psi, it has new plugs in it but tommrow i am going to put new wires in it, i drove it home from work and it was fine for the first pull then once again i did it again and it pulled the timing way out of the car and all it was doing was like backfiring...

 

[dsmrollerz90]

I know this is an old thread but my car is doing the same exact thing and its pissing me off. low boost high boost anything. no boost leaks, no exhaust leaks, perfect fuel pressure, I hooked up the data laogger and at WOT it jumps to +28deg. then drops to -2deg. my motor says its running 20deg. hotter than its supposed to be, so I changed the thermostat, fixed fans, and ran fans the whole time i was driving. There was a slight diff. but not like its supposed to be pulling!

anybody?

 

[killahb33]

my car has phantom knock but it doesn't get that bad, I would still recommend you check the knock sensor, see if it is still good if not fill it or get a new one.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

The knock sensor is good, I get no knock at all.

New update;

I got in the car this morning to go to school, started just fine, I let it warm up for a couple of mins before driving. Once it got warm, I started driving up the street, half way up my street it starts sputtering, I push the clutch inn to rev it up but it just dies, now it wont turn back on. can somebody please help me, they complain that people make new threads on topics that already have threads about them, I found one!!

HELP ME!!!

Well since nobody feels the need to help me, I asked a ford guy and he said that their diesels usually do that when the cam angle sensor is going out, so I'm going to try that next, and post on here and see if anybody gives a shit to read it.

 

[RED AWD GSX]

Are you sure that its not one of your coil packs?

And there is such a thing a knocking by running too rich and or too lean.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

My coil packs are good. I have spark, fuel, air. the only thing we could think of is the CAS.

If this doesnt fix it I'm buying 100Lbs. of dynomite

 

[ty92dsm]

Is your CEL on? Do you have bad lifter tick?

 

[dsmrollerz90]

no lifter tick, I dont know what CEL is, and I do know enough about these cars. I've completely restored my talon from the ground up. I know almost everything that is on my car, thats the reason I'm on here, this is the only problem I have not been able to figure out because I've tried everything logical to figure it out and I cant.

 

[ty92dsm]

I would suggest at least finding out what the CEL is. It is there for a reason.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

I put on the new CAS and it runs but its still pulling the timing.

You gotta be kidding me... No the check engine light is not on. and no lifter tick.

 

[ty92dsm]

no lifter tick, I dont know what CEL is, and I do know enough about these cars. I've completely restored my talon from the ground up. I know almost everything that is on my car, thats the reason I'm on here, this is the only problem I have not been able to figure out because I've tried everything logical to figure it out and I cant.

You said you don't know what the CEL is so I took it as there is one on. Are you watching your logger to see if you are getting knock when this is happening?

 

[AlaskanDsm]

I know that you installed a new CAS but did you time the car by grounding the timing pin and setting the base timing to 5* BTDC (marks on the timing case). Just want verify that swapping the CAS and having it not be in the proper location isn't causing any secondary effects.

for more info...
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/timing.html
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm

 

[dsmrollerz90]

The logger reads no knock at all, its kinda cool up here, 40-50* and my fmic does cool down alot of air, so I dont get any knock.

Okay, now what do I do for the pulling timing problem?

 

[standard235]

The car won't pull timing if you aren't seeing knock. Car pulls 1 degree for ever 3 counts of knock.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

i have a knock guage and a data logger both not reading any acounts of knock. its pulling 30*.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Replace your knock sensor.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

Hmm, will that cause the engine to pull timing? even if its not reading?

I asked that ford guy again, and he said that weather the knock sensor is good or not, it will pull the timing if its pinging. He said to run 44k and a higher octane through it to see if that gets rid of the pinging. Have you heard of this on a DSM?

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Yes, a poor or non-functioning knock sensor will cause that. Pull the knock sensor and see if all the black goo around the sensor is gone. That's the sure tell-tale sign that it's shot. Even if it's just soft and mushy, replace it.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

Would the duralast one from auto zone be okay if it's bad?

 

[ty92dsm]

Would the duralast one from auto zone be okay if it's bad?

IMO go with OEM. Im not sure though I just never trust auto zone for parts like that

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Would the duralast one from auto zone be okay if it's bad?

Yes! That's the one I got and once you get it you'll see it's actually a Mitsubishi part, just like the OEM one.

 

[ty92dsm]

Yes! That's the one I got and once you get it you'll see it's actually a Mitsubishi part, just like the OEM one.

I stand corrected

 

[dsmrollerz90]

sweet because I have a friend that works at my local vato zone and he said he cant get me a discount, msrp is 40 bucks so lets see if he can get it down to $20. I'll probably get that in during the weekend when I actually have time to work on it. What size wrench do I put on it?

I will also be re-tapping turbo bolt threads next week in my shop, so it will be late next week. Will the duralast one come with the black gooy stuff on it or do I have to buy that?