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knocking and pulling timing.

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dsmfocker

Probationary Member
7
0
Sep 11, 2006
colgate, Wisconsin
ok have a little problem, i have a 91 talon turbo basically stock just has a greddy porfect 2 boost controller in it and a K&N so basically stock... so i was drving my car with 15psi and was running good. then i let it sit for about 5-6 hours then i was drving it and it wont boost anymore. as soon as i would get into the boost range it was like the motor was knocking or it was pulling the timing way out of the car... there is a couple of timings if i slowly get on it and it will pull all the way through with 15psi but when i would shift it would happen again any ideas?
 
What size wrench do I put on it?

Will the duralast one come with the black gooy stuff on it or do I have to buy that?

I believe it's a 7/8" wrench.

Yes the black gooey stuff will come in the back of the new sensor, so you won't have to worry about putting that in there.LOL It is an epoxy that protects the wires where they attach to the sensor.;)
 
Alright sweet, gravedigger your awesome!! I will have updates next week, thanks for your help.

Dont lose this thread because its not done yet!

Okay, so I found out that after I put on the cas, I turned down the boost to 9psi. I forgot I did that and I thought it was still pulling timing, I logged a 2nd gear pull and the timing at 6800rpm is at 16*. so the car is running like a champ now but it is still a little hot, it's at 203*f.

I have done;
Thermostat
Rad. flush
heat shilds
fan rewire

What else can I do to bring the temp down to normal temp? (185*-195*)
 
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What else can I do to bring the temp down to normal temp? (185*-195*)

Maybe a better radiator would help you out.:) That might be something to think about. How's the condition of your current radiator? I assume it's stock, so make sure it's not missing any fins or anything, because that will limit its cooling ability. If you're looking to replace your radiator, you can't hardly go wrong with something like this for the price.;) Mishimoto Performance Radiator Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-94
 
Lol yeah, I have that rad. And two 12in. Fans. I was thinking of bypassing the coolant flow to the turbo. That would bring down coolant temps pretty good don't you think? Also, the other night I was doing a wot pull in 3rd and it started missfiring. Now all it does is missfire. I was thinking it was maybe spark plugs or wires because they are about three years old. But my car is apart right now for turbo thread repair. So I can't really diagnose anything right now.
 
I actually don't know if eliminating the coolant to the turbo has any effect on overall coolant temperature, so I won't comment on that.:idontknow:

As far as the misfire goes... I would get some new plugs and wires on the car and see what happens. Also, you might want to throw a new fuel filter on the car if it's been a while too.:)

Good luck on the thread repair. Hopefully you'll have it up and running like a champ soon.:D
 
Lol, what can I do to richen it up? I'm tuning with Keydiver, I've got 950cc injectors and a 255hp walbro.

What can I do you Rich it up?
 
Make sure the chip is burned for what it's supposed to be. Make sure the injectors are actually 950's. Change your fuel filter. Check your voltage at the fuel pump. I thought you built this car?
 
Yes, I have basicaly restored this car, again, thats the only reason I'm on here, because i have went through everything on this car and I cant find anything wrong with it. Yes the chip is good, yes the injectors are 950cc. You can check every single sensor on this car and every single part, it should be running like a champ, but something it holding it back.

I put in the plugs and fixed the stripped threads, got rid of exhaust leaks all today, and it's still studdering. Next I am going to try a new MAF. I will be putting that on around noon. I will let you know how that works, and if its not that, I'm going to try a new resister pack.

Ugh... So much work LOL, I hate diagnosing!
 
I have a datalogger and a wideband. I have changed the plugs and wires. not the coil packs yet. One of my friends said to use a Hayabusa coil pack. Will it make a significant diff.? Anyway, I'm still trying to locate a black top CAS in the neighborhood for a good price. I am an uneployed student. So once I get that I will update again.
 
So the car WAS running properly and then started stuttering again a few days later?
Also, I find 203º to be pretty darn normal. The ECU will pull 1º of timing at 206º. You could try making some ducting between your fmic and rad.

Where is your WB located? What brand is it? How old is the sensor? Has is been properly calibrated?
I'm just trying to figure out why you'd be running so insanely lean on that chip. Also, no more WOT runs. Not even for logging, not until you're sure you're not running so damn lean.
 
The A/F ratio is fine now. I have a new black top CAS. knock sensor was toast so I got a new knock sensor. ECU was toast so I got a new ECU and fired it up today. It idles perfect but my knock guage was going crazy. I hooked up the data logger and at idle it was reading 3 counts of knock about every 15-20 seconds. Any thoughts??
 
Did you ensure the new knock sensor was torqued properly? Too loose or too tight can cause issues like that.

Edit: I would not have replaced my knock sensor in your circumstance. Your old one was likely still good. I mean they get old and leak.. but I just didn't see cause.
 
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