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Turbocharging Questions: EMS/WbO2/Boost Controllers

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Straycat

10+ Year Contributor
106
0
Dec 1, 2010
lawrenceville, Georgia
Alright, tax return time is almost here. Rebuilding the trans already, ordered my coilovers, strut tower bars, and sway bars. The turbo kit and relating additions are next.......now for the noobish questions...

I have been reading every thread, sticky post, relating comments so on and so forth, but what I guess I am looking for here is simple yes and no basically. I'm used to all motor builds. I'm new to the electronic aftermarket stuff, forced air sstuff, ect. As far as what I HAVE to have to make this work correctly on a low milliage 420a...(70k miles)

FMU 12:1
Turbo kit ( fmic and all included)
Wideband O2 and related hardware ect.
Getting the downpipe from the t3/t4 from a buddy who already had one welded to a flange that fits the bolt in cats. ( i love freebies)

Now, is a megasquirt type system absolutely nesesary at this stage? Or is it something I can add later?

Boost controllers. Manual or electronic best?

And as far as the wideband 02 sensor goes, does it go in one of the stock ports in the exhaust or do i have to fab a new one?


Also keep in mind that I dont have to deal with emissions testing......so if there are extra steps people would normally have to take to make it pass i can lapse that in the name of performance :p. ( plus i dont plan on getting rid of the car, ever.)

oh yeah i'm going to have to replace the frony bumper cover as well i am guessing to be able to fit the ic in there.....
 
It is in my opinion that your fuel and management system should be the very first part you buy. Buy according to your goals however. I think most here will agree FMU's are just band-aids and are not a sufficient way to fuel a performance machine. At bare minimum, if you can't spring the cash for a legitimate system, choose an S-FMU over the standard FMU. An S-FMU will at least offer a more effective fuel curve. I think its ok to suggest using the search feature for more indepth details on that.

FUEL SYSTEMS:
Choose hahn portfueler if you desire simplicity. Choose megasquirt if you desire maximum tuneability for this specific platform. Both can be found in the 500 range pre-owned, or cheaper.

BOOST CONTROLLERS:
I suggest sticking with a manual boost controller until you get into higher boost ranges where you can take advantage of the features e-boost controllers offer. If you find a great deal on an electronic however then by all means buy it. Some engine management systems incorporate an e-boost controller, I would contact Symtech to see if megasquirt has that option.

WIDEBAND:
I would like to pat you on the back for even having the wideband. I believe that and an EGT gauge are the two most important gauges to have in addition to oil pressure and a boost gauge. To answer your question, yes you will need a third port. Most exhaust shops will install the bung for somewhere around $20.00


Good luck with your build and remember search hard, and post smart :thumb:
 
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I appreciate you taking the time to give me some info! Yeah I am going to enjoy the hell out of it. Found out today that my wife is getting her mother's 08 nissan pathfinder for free ( cause her mother is loaded and just wants a "new" car), so I'm thinking about taking the civic back from her as a "daily driver" car and going balls to the wall with my Eclipse. That way if I noob some of the electronic stuff up I can still keep on with life as normal, and take my sweet time with it.

I'm really begining to think I want to simplify the car in it's entirety. Thinking of gutting the A/C system,the engine bay really has too much crap and riff raff in it, and I'm fixing to add alot more to it.......remove the back seats do something with the hatch area, maybe a roll cage, maybe picking up some carbon fiber body panels. My mind is going all over the place with this thing, I feel like my son did on xmas morning.......LOL.

I love the feeling I get when I park in a parking lot, get about 20 feet away and look back and go " damn, that thing looks hot, even for a bright orange car" LOL.
 
I think it's safe to say, most of us who have uninstalled A/C have regretted it at some point. Personally I went as far as to design my current system (with full 3'' downpipe) to keep A/C.

My only tip for you is: begin with the end in mind. Set a goal and commit. Wisemen on this site are more than ready to help you along, given you show consistency in your efforts.

Good luck! and look forward to your future progress reports.
 
As far as removing the A/C. Here are my concerns. I personally removed everything I dont need. AC, PS, Cruise, amongst other small things. This being said. We have a FWD vehicle. Its kind of a screwed if you do screwed if you dont situation. If you remove it like I did, you have that simplicity of basically being able to unbolt 4 bolts and pull the engine if need be. It also saves some weight. On the other hand, thats less weight on those front tires. The 420a is by no means a high hp motor stock, and we still have a hard time putting traction down if we let the clutch go too fast. So with 50, 100, or more extra hp and less weight on those tires, traction becomes a major issue.

I think if you live in AZ leave your AC, if you live in Alaska pull it. If you live anywhere inbetween. Flip a coin.
 
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