Turbo XS MBC installation help.

[my98GST]

Me and my buddy were trying to hook up my turboxs mbc on my 2g when a cop came along and told us that we had to leave autozones parking lot since it was after they had closed. We were in the process of hooking it up from the WG sylinoid. The car runs and everything but its over boosting with the mbc tight as it can be. But on the intake, theres a bung that the line went to that we disconnected from the WG Syl. Is there supposed to be a line going back into the intake?


Or can someone please walk me through how you hooked yours up using the wg sylinoid?

 

[Dream On]

Don't use the old solenoid, just hook it up to your wastegate and to a boost source, either your LICP or the BOV line. I don't think 2g's have a nipple on theirs though. I dunno, I'm a 1g guy though, so this may not be completely correct.

 

[oopovertyoo]

you have to cap off the selinoid and the spot were the vac line goes to the intake, or somehow run the vac lines so the ones comeing from the seliniod go from the intake to the seliniod to a bolt, to cap it off... thats what i did, since i had no caps left seemed to work fine. the smaller line from the bov you need to slice and put a t on it, then run a short 6" line to the MBC( the side that has the bearing in it) then the other side of the mbc the vac line should go to the waste gate

 

[my98GST]

See, his is hooked up not using the bov line that goes back into the intake mani. He just used the top sylinoid line. On the sylinoid, theres the bottom one that connects into with the T fitting and then the top one connects back into the intake.... I wonder if I have mine hooked up right but its just reversed like my buddy's is?? For his, to increase boost you turn it to the left so its the opposite of righty tighty lefty loosey.

 

[my98GST]

Okayyyy I found out where some of hte problem was coming from. We got ran out so fast, that I had hte nipple on the compressor housing, the line was off of it also. So is this how everything should be?

First on the WG Sylnoid, Bottom line - runs into a T fitting which you would have the WG line, and the compressor housing line.

Then back to the sylinoid - Top line, runs back into the intake.

Thats how everything should be "stock" correct? Now am I supposed to take the "to WG" line and stick it on the WG side of the MBC....Then what am I supposed to hook to the Pressure nipple on the MBC?

 

[MrBoxx]

For the MBC installation, you should have a line coming from the compressor housing to the side nipple on the MBC. The bottom nipple of the MBC should have a line going to the wastegate actuator nipple. Very simple installation. Which type of TurboXS MBC did you get, the standard or the high performance version?

Cap off the nipples on the intake and the stock BCS, but leave the sensor plugged in. The ECU likes to see the signal even if it's not doing anything.

 

[my98GST]

Alright real quick... I was looking on Vfaq on the hallman installation and its telling me to yank all of the WG sylinoid hoses, run the wg line to the wg, then on the other end of the mbc tap into the bov line where it connects to the intake mani. That will work too on the turboxs correct? I'm not very sure if its the standard or high performance....

 

[MrBoxx]

Don't use the BOV line. Leave it alone. Use the compressor nipple. Your turbo will thank you.

 

[HearMeSpoolin]

your all wrong... go to turbo xs website and look there it show's u for your car and that boost controller.. i have the same one. there explaining how a diff. mbc works, these xs ones are kinda backwards.. and the bov to manifold is the best line for it, not the j pipe

 

[HearMeSpoolin]

http://www.turboxs.com/faq/eclipse2.htm thats the right way

 

[MrBoxx]

Can you explain why it's the "best", though?

Here are the reasons for tapping the compressor/intercooler pipe as opposed to taking the source from the manifold/BOv line, as originally posted by oldman:

Taking the pressure source from the j-pipe fitting has many benefits.

1. The main reason why alot of mbc instructions and some tech articles suggests to tap from the BOV line is because it's connected to the intake manifold, the argument is that this is more accurate because it's the same pressure the engine sees. In reality this is a non issue because the boost gauge is tap to the intake manifold no matter where you tap your mbc so there is no advantage in tapping the bov/manifold pressure as previously thought.

2. The proper functioning (opening and closing) of the bov depends greatly on the accuracy of the pressure in the vacuum hose you're thinking of tapping on or off boost so it's best to leave it connected directly to the manifold without any interference.

3. Tapping off the compressor/j-pipe offers the shortest vacuum hose route which greatly reduces the chance of boost spike.

4. In the case of boost leaks, tapping off the compressor/j-pipe will help prevent over boosting the turbo.

5. Hooking up a bleeder type mbc like the TurboXS standard mbc to the bov line will result in a vacuum leak as well as affect the working of the BOV.

To sum up, there is no advantage to taking the pressure from the BOV line, and a few possible disadvantages. There are advantages to taking it from the turbo, and no disadvantages.

 

[daren_p]

your all wrong... go to turbo xs website and look there it show's u for your car and that boost controller.. i have the same one. there explaining how a diff. mbc works, these xs ones are kinda backwards.. and the bov to manifold is the best line for it, not the j pipe

Sorry you are incorrect, you shouldn't tap off the bov for several reasons that MrBoxx was nice enough to post. His above post was the correct way to install a mbc.

The source comes from the comp housing or jpipe (which ever setup you have) goes to the mbc inlet and then the mbc outlet goes to the WG actuator & you want to try to make these lines short as possible for the fastest response. Leave the factory bcs electronically connected but plug the pressure ports & finally plug the nipple on your intake .

 

[HearMeSpoolin]

well tomorrow i will try the jpipe and see what happens.. i do have spike problems right now.. what i ment by wrong was the act line goes to the bottom of this boost controller and the other line to the bov or jpipe.. on the other mbc its backwards... hope i clear that up.. but yea i talked to lots of people and shops like torquefreaks and rrevmotorsports and they said tap the bov line. but like i said, i will try it tmro and see how it works and let you guys know if its the same or not

 

[my98GST]

I used the way Boxx has told me and works like a champ. Easiest and cheapest yet most effective mod possible! So now I just need to take off hte wg sylinoid hoses?

 

[MrBoxx]

Yes, you can take off the two wastegate solenoid (Boost Control Solenoid=BCS) and cap them off with some rubber nipple caps. If you have the stock intake hose, you'll need to cap off the nipple or port on the bottom of the hose where one of the vacuum lines from the BCS connects to it. You don't need that anymore.
But leave the BCS electrical connector plugged in.

 

[my98GST]

Well I guess i jinxed myself earlier. Last night I had the pin all the way in and it was running 13lbs, then I turned it three full turns and it put me at 15. Then today after school I turned it 2 more times and it set me back ato 13lbs?????? The pin is now halfway out of the main cartriage but not pretruding out of the cartriage. I figured with it being half way out of it, I should be hitting near 20-25 but I cant get over 15. Could not having the intake port plugged be the cause of not being able to boost over 15?

 

[MrBoxx]

Does your boost controller look like this (standard):

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OR this (high-performance):

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If it's the high-performance one, there are actually two different adjusting screws. I'm betting that you have the standard, though, from the sounds of it. Try turning the screw two turns back in where you were hitting 15psi before. Go to a long, deserted stretch of road and give it a few good second and third gear pulls and watch your boost gauge (and the road, please). Is boost remaining at 15psi steadily, or does it go to 15 and drop down? Does it hit 15 and creep up?

Of course, you should do a boost leak test, just to be sure that's not your issue. Regarding the intake port: First, is it a nipple or a hole on the stock intake hose? I can't remember how it went and my old intake is at my parents' house. Whichever one it is, try to get it plugged as soon as you can. There's little chance of any rocks or anything flying in your intake, but it's best to have everything capped off.

 

[my98GST]

Yeah its the standard . Well I just went outside to look at what I could use to plug off the intake bung and noticed that the valve cover hose that goes back into the intake was off so could that be part of not being able to boost over 15?

 

[MrBoxx]

That hose probably isn't the reason you're not building boost. But since you brought it up, it's a good idea to put something in that line to catch the oil that gets fed into your intake and gums up the intercooler. I use a Purolator fuel filter, model number F20011 (same as Fram G2). They're about $3 a pop and can trap all that crud. You'll be suprised at how much builds up in it in a month. When it's full, or whenever you feel like changing it out, you can just throw it away and put in a clean one. I try to change mine every oil change as a reminder. Looks like this, in case you're curious:

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[92_talonTSI]

Ive learned one thing with turbo xs boost controllers Ive went threw 2 single stages and a dual stage I have reciepts where they where sent in over and over and replaced i give them that very good customer service.But they always worked for a couple days then messed up

 

[MrBoxx]

Ive learned one thing with turbo xs boost controllers Ive went threw 2 single stages and a dual stage I have reciepts where they where sent in over and over and replaced i give them that very good customer service.But they always worked for a couple days then messed up

True, true. When I was considering my options for boost controllers, plenty of people said to stay away from TurboXS because of a history of boost spike issues or reliability issues. But plenty of people have also had good results from them. Personally, my high-performance boost controller has served me flawlessly for a few years. Some people have bad luck with them, I suppose. I think it's one of those companies/products where people have a love or hate relationship with them.

 

[HearMeSpoolin]

im using the high performance one with the two adjustments and im spiking to 20 and falling back to 14.. but like i said, i will try the nipple on the turbo and see what happens

 

[daren_p]

I used to run the high performance model as well. It worked great on the t25 but once I got the evoIII I saw 5 & 6 psi boost spikes I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did & this was with it hooked to the lower ic pipe. I can only imagine how bad it would have been off the bov. I ended up swapping it out for a Profec type S.

 

[HearMeSpoolin]

well im using a T25 .. on my 1g instead of the 14b.. only way i could drive my car.. i have a 20g im gonna put on in a few weeks, just gotta make a manifold adapter for it

 

[my98GST]

I'm almost considering switching to a Hallman now.... I know I'm running way over 15lbs of boost but now my boost guage is only showing its making 15lbs of boost..????????