Turbo XS MBC installation help.

[my98GST]

Me and my buddy were trying to hook up my turboxs mbc on my 2g when a cop came along and told us that we had to leave autozones parking lot since it was after they had closed. We were in the process of hooking it up from the WG sylinoid. The car runs and everything but its over boosting with the mbc tight as it can be. But on the intake, theres a bung that the line went to that we disconnected from the WG Syl. Is there supposed to be a line going back into the intake?


Or can someone please walk me through how you hooked yours up using the wg sylinoid?

 

[Shane2GSX]

Not trying to highjack this thread, but I am actually having the same type of problem except I'm over boosting. I have a hallman boost controller, not sure which, but I hooked the bottom to the compressor nipple then the top to the wg. I plugged off the hose going from the bcs to the turbo. The only thing that I haven't done, and will now after reading this, is to take off the hose from the bcs to the intake pipe and plug the hose and nipple off. However, I wouldn't think not doing that would cause me to overboost since the bcs is taken out of the equation?? It's boosting upwards of 17-18 psi no matter what I do to the mbc. I've also tried sapping the hoses on the mbc. Any thoughts???

 

[my98GST]

I took both lines off of the BCS and capped off the intake port. My boost guage wont read anything about 15psi. I'm going to put a different mbc on it today and see if thats the problem.

 

[MrBoxx]

my98GST- Do a boost leak test. It sounds like you're not building boost like you should be.

Shane2GSX- Is the boost staying at 17-18 steady or does it spike up and then drop down?

 

[Shane2GSX]

Mr. Boxx, I am glad you are chiming in..

It appears to go up actually probably higher than 17-18, but I let off so I don't damage anything. But I did notice it go up once to like 20 then drop off to about 16 in the higher rpms.

There is one other thing that I will add that is a little hard to describe but I'll try. The stock T that connects the compressor nipple, bcs and wg all together, we unplugged the wg hose and bsc hose and left the T connected to the compressor. Then of course we capped up the BCS end of the T and put the hose from the MBC on the open spot of the T. Then the other hose from the MBC to the WG. I don't see how this would cause a problem though..

 

[my98GST]

I'm about to go test it out on a different mbc. The weird thing is though, its only staying at 15 but when I turn the boost up even more it pulls harder and harder and harder each time I turn it up??

 

[my98GST]

I wodner if my uncrushed 1g bov would have something to do with that becuase I'm almost 900% certain that I'm not leaking anywhere else. I've got all of my tbolt clamps SNUGGED and when I say snugged...their about to bend the pipes . I'm goign to go back and check my TB elbow and see if it still has a little room to tighten up. I don't have a tester big enough to fit my inlet to the 20g now so I'm goign to have to make another one.

 

[MrBoxx]

I'll post this for people for future reference. This is using a TurboXS High-Performance model manual boost controller, an RRE L-pipe with NPT nipple fitting, and a 14b wastegate. Hope this helps some of you visualize how things go. Your boost controller may vary, though. I hope everyone can read the writing on the pics. Behold my mad MS Paint skillz:

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Shane, I would get rid of the tee and just use two hoses for the whole thing, as I've pictured above.

My98GST, it's possible your boost gauge has a flaw in it if you feel the car pulling harder but the boost level stays the same. Do a boost leak check anyway, since boost leaks can occur in the most unlikely of places, even if your intercooler hoses are as tight as they can be.

 

[my98GST]

What about the bov leaking? I need a quick response becuase I found a real type-s on ebay for 90

 

[MrBoxx]

Even uncrushed, a 1g BOV should hold more than 15psi. If it were leaking from the flange, that would be a different story.

A Greddy Type S for $90 is a pretty good deal. If it's the real thing, I'd pick it up anyway, either for future use or as an investment. They don't make those anymore, ya know. Even if it is a copy, you can replace the diaphragm with a real Greddy and have better reliability. There's a very good thread on that here if you're interested. You'd need to get a new upper intercooler pipe for it work though, right?

 

[Shane2GSX]

Mr. Boxx: Thanks, taking that T out worked. However, I now have a boost leak I think at the BOV I believe b/c boost is going up to where I set it then dropping back once I get into it. So I'll reinstall the BOV later this week to clear that up.

I did leave the hose going from the BCS to the intake. Is there any real reason to remove this and cap off the nipple?

Once again thanks.

 

[MrBoxx]

Mr. Boxx: Thanks, taking that T out worked. However, I now have a boost leak I think at the BOV I believe b/c boost is going up to where I set it then dropping back once I get into it. So I'll reinstall the BOV later this week to clear that up.

I did leave the hose going from the BCS to the intake. Is there any real reason to remove this and cap off the nipple?

Once again thanks.

It's good to hear taking the tee out helped. As for the BCS hose, I'm sure it's probably okay to leave plugged in if you really want to. The only reasons to cap it off are to clean up the engine bay of one more vacuum line and to prevent any unmetered air going into the system. As long as the other BCS nipple is capped off well, there shouldn't be any way for air to enter, so.... yeah, it's up to you. Either way should be fine. I'm glad I could help.

 

[my98GST]

Boxx, any idea where I can find the greddy bov gasket? I'm just going to use my 1g flagne and drill it.

 

[MrBoxx]

Sixth item down on this list, $8:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm

For my 1g BOV, I don't even remember using a gasket. Hmm.. now you have me wondering if I even put one in. Thanks for reminding me to check that next weekend when I work on my car.

 

[my98GST]

Holy balls dude, you have the answer to everything. Screw that type-s on ebay man. I quit bidding at 115. Damn those hidden bids.

 

[my98GST]

Boxx, you wouldn't happen to also know where I could find the Greddy diaphram at do you? I think I'm going to just go the fake way and upgrade the diaphram.

 

[MrBoxx]

DiamondStarM actually posted an amazing story about how he dissected a fake Type S and examined the materials used in construction, including the diaphragm. That is on this page of this thread. Later in the thread, he explains a few places where you can get the real Greddy diaphragm to replace it.

Here is a copy of what he said, for quick reference:

The part number is 99900061 and you can get the part from a few places...

http://www.overboost.com/obs/product.asp?pid=31040

http://www.cardomain.com/item/GRE99900061

http://www.import-racer.com/sku/99900061

http://speedalliance.com/engine/blow_off.html

You will notice the whole diaphram is not only a different material but also a different design(unless Greddy had modified their membrane at one point and thets why some people used to have problems with the old ones breaking), but it does drop right in and is holding 20psi currently on my application with about a week of driving so far.
- as originally posted by DiamondStarM

I think he did a great job of evaluating the fake Type S and came up with a solution that's very helpful and innovative.

 

[my98GST]

Ya me too. So all I do is undo the screws, pull the cap off and slide out the old diaphram?

 

[MrBoxx]

I believe that is how it is done, yes. If you need more help or run into problems, send DiamondStarM a PM.

 

[my98GST]

Theres another type-s on ebay thats brand new thats bid only started at 50. I threw in a bid

 

[3134]

fyi call turbo xs because i was told by everybody that the side piece connects to the wastegate and the bottom connects to teh line of the bov. With the particular model of bov that is in the picture above (also what i have) it is reversed. the bottom connects to the wastegate and the side to the bov line, jpipe that leads to the intercooler, or w/e... Doesn't hurt to call before you do it. Once you know where it goes installation takes 10 mins tops

 

[3134]

wait, in that picture does anyone know what those two black pieces do? mine have them also and i am unsure of their function

 

[MrBoxx]

If you're talking about the pictures of the MBC's that I posted, the two black things I think you're referring to are just rubber O-rings. On the MBC body, there are some holes to let the boost bleed out, delaying the opening of the wastegate. The O-rings just cover the holes up so no debris gets in them. If you find a TurboXS MBC that is missing one or both of these, I'm sure the local auto-parts store or hardware store would have the appropriate size to replace them.

 

[jibberishballr]

For the MBC installation, you should have a line coming from the compressor housing to the side nipple on the MBC. The bottom nipple of the MBC should have a line going to the wastegate actuator nipple. Very simple installation. Which type of TurboXS MBC did you get, the standard or the high performance version?

Cap off the nipples on the intake and the stock BCS, but leave the sensor plugged in. The ECU likes to see the signal even if it's not doing anything.

Just wondering... there are two lines that run from the bcs. You cap them both right. Im assuming you do but just wanted to make sure. And then you just cap the intake pipe nip and dont use the other line that was connected to the bcs because that line is now teed with the bov as you stated. Correct?

 

[MrBoxx]

Just wondering... there are two lines that run from the bcs. You cap them both right. Im assuming you do but just wanted to make sure. And then you just cap the intake pipe nip and dont use the other line that was connected to the bcs because that line is now teed with the bov as you stated. Correct?

The BCS can be totally capped off. It's not being used for anything. The only reason I say to leave it plugged in is because the 2g ECU likes to see that it's still there. I'm told that 1g's don't have this problem and can remove the BCS completely from the car.

The vacuum line from the turbo is used for a pressure source for the MBC. Another line is used from the MBC outlet to the wastegate actuator. You can use the stock lines that were in your car, but for the sake of reliability, I would replace them. You never know if they've been hardened, cracked, etc.

 

[jibberishballr]

The BCS can be totally capped off. It's not being used for anything. The only reason I say to leave it plugged in is because the 2g ECU likes to see that it's still there. I'm told that 1g's don't have this problem and can remove the BCS completely from the car.

The vacuum line from the turbo is used for a pressure source for the MBC. Another line is used from the MBC outlet to the wastegate actuator. You can use the stock lines that were in your car, but for the sake of reliability, I would replace them. You never know if they've been hardened, cracked, etc.

So let me see if this is correct:

And as where it goes to the wastegate it just goes on that little nipple thing stickin out? The gold thing similar to the one on the BOV.