Turbo xs mbc install (help)

[1991eagleawd]

ok, so i just put in a fmic. and wanted to up the boost to 10-12 psi, so picked up a turbo xs mbc. i thought you just spliced it between the bov and wastegate.? no response. bare with me people, just bought this car. ive read up alot on installation of the mbc. but all systems are different. so ill just let you all know what i got.

ive read that if i hook up wastegate line to mbc, then a tee, one side going to bov, and other going to throttle vac line. will this work?

and secondly, i also have a new j pipe with a nipple on it. should i install this to better my mbc response? any help with be appreciated.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/237982-best-way-install-mbc.html


Do not tap into the BOV line. You want the boost source to be as close to the turbo as possible, so yes a nipple on your J-pipe is ideal.

The Turbo XS MBC is a standard ball and spring controller (as long as you don't have the dual controller). On the controller itself, the nipple inline with the controller goes to your pressure source. The nipple coming off the side of the controller goes to your wastegate actuator.

 

[1991eagleawd]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/237982-best-way-install-mbc.html


Do not tap into the BOV line. You want the boost source to be as close to the turbo as possible, so yes a nipple on your J-pipe is ideal.

The Turbo XS MBC is a standard ball and spring controller (as long as you don't have the dual controller). On the controller itself, the nipple inline with the controller goes to your pressure source. The nipple coming off the side of the controller goes to your wastegate actuator.

thank you, that helps alot. so then the bov is connected to? a tee off the wastegate to pressure source line?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

thank you, that helps alot. so then the bov is connected to? a tee off the wastegate to pressure source line?

There should be no Tee at all. The inlet line on your MBC goes directly to your pressure source (compressor cover/j-pipe) and the exit line goes directly to your wastegate actuator.

The BOV should have its own line directly to the intake manifold, just like stock. Leave the BOV line alone. The BOV has nothing to do with your boost controller.

 

[bsendkew]

i did not have trouble installing mine, but when i upped the boost from 7 to 10 it was running terriable and would bog and act funny after 4k rpm. any ideas? just need a tune?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

i did not have trouble installing mine, but when i upped the boost from 7 to 10 it was running terriable and would bog and act funny after 4k rpm. any ideas? just need a tune?

Thread jack but do a boost leak test. I'd put money on it.

 

[bsendkew]

Thread jack but do a boost leak test. I'd put money on it.

How would i go about doing that? You can pm me if you want so i dont blow up his thread.

 

[1991eagleawd]

the lines were all disconnected. and i believe the actuator was removed. or i can not find it?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

How would i go about doing that? You can pm me if you want so i dont blow up his thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/169435-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html
IC Pipe Tester

the lines were all disconnected. and i believe the actuator was removed. or i can not find it?

Wastegate actuator:

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Vacuum line routing for the BOV:

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The BOV line runs from the nipple on the BOV to the BOV port on the intake manifold which is on the upper portion of the Passenger's side of the manifold just below where it says "ECI-Multi".

 

[1991eagleawd]

thank you wiseman, ill be sure to let you know how it goes. much appreciated.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

thank you wiseman, ill be sure to let you know how it goes. much appreciated.

You are welcome! Let us know how it goes.

 

[1991eagleawd]

so today i look at what i got. instead of a j pipe with a nipple. i got what looks like a j pipe without the flange with a nipple. so i just insert it right after j pipe. hooked up the way you (wiseman) told me too.
to no result. i take a cruise and up the boost, nothing, do it again, nothing. i did it enough to realize that nothings happening. what i am i missing? side nipple goes to waste gate actuator, bottom nipple goes to pressure source. left vacuum on TB goes to bov. ?? i can feel im almost there.

and also when i rev anywhere from 1500-7000 rpms, the idle bounces from 400-1000rpms to almost a stall . and has stalled once.
thanks wise wiseman for the help. ill be sure to pass on any knowledge i gain from you.

OK, so just went out and decided to turn the mbc beyond what should be expected. and im hitting 10psi. so i went and turned it maybe 6 more revolutions, and im not getting any more psi. so i decided to remove the mbc to take a look at it, and noticed that the side nipple that goes to actuator. and the nipples vacuum hole is maybe a neddle sized hole. do i need a bigger breathing nipple? could this cause the mbc to only get so much psi? im sure it is, just thought i would ask.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

so today i look at what i got. instead of a j pipe with a nipple. i got what looks like a j pipe without the flange with a nipple. so i just insert it right after j pipe. hooked up the way you (wiseman) told me too.
to no result. i take a cruise and up the boost, nothing, do it again, nothing. i did it enough to realize that nothings happening. what i am i missing? side nipple goes to waste gate actuator, bottom nipple goes to pressure source. left vacuum on TB goes to bov. ?? i can feel im almost there.

and also when i rev anywhere from 1500-7000 rpms, the idle bounces from 400-1000rpms to almost a stall . and has stalled once.
thanks wise wiseman for the help. ill be sure to pass on any knowledge i gain from you.

OK, so just went out and decided to turn the mbc beyond what should be expected. and im hitting 10psi. so i went and turned it maybe 6 more revolutions, and im not getting any more psi. so i decided to remove the mbc to take a look at it, and noticed that the side nipple that goes to actuator. and the nipples vacuum hole is maybe a neddle sized hole. do i need a bigger breathing nipple? could this cause the mbc to only get so much psi? im sure it is, just thought i would ask.

The left (passenger side) vacuum port on the INTAKE MANIFOLD (not throttle body) goes to the BOV.

Can you post a picture of the nipple that you are referring to on your MBC and also a picuture of the j-pipe/nipple that you are using.

Also follow the links that I posted bsendkew on how to do make your own boost leak tester and do a boost leak test. If you have a lot of boost leaks (which I'm betting you do) then you won't be able to raise the boost no matter how much you crank you MBC because all your pressure is all escaping from the leaks.

 

[1991eagleawd]

yes sorry the intake,..my bad.

im going to go over the entire set up tomorrow, remount all the piping. ill let you know what arises out of it. thank you again wiseman.

Ok, so redid all the piping. It's tight. It's still chugging on acceleration. Sounds like it's missing in a cylinder. So I went a changed plugs(.28). So my brother says spray some water on the exhaust mani on every port, and if the water on a port takes longer to evaporite, that cylinder is missing of not firing. So I did, and the port closes to the divers side is staying wet longer.

This all started when I was testing mbc, and a intercooler pipe blew off. I pulled over right away and remounted the pipe. Ran fine, then blew off again. I rehooked it up. And noticed that when I press gas that it sputters in the lower rpms. And feels gutless. Any ideas guys? I just want it running smooth

i just got home a pulled the plugs to see whats happening, and three of the plugs clearly had been running a little lean. the fourth, closes to the divers side, number 1 i believe, has next to no deposits on it. the plugs are brand new, wires are fairly new. any ideas? was running amazing until ic pipe blew off??

anyone know of a solid dsm guy around toronto area that can tune and set me up?

 

[1991eagleawd]

**UPDATE**

hesitation, due from clogged injector. car is running smooth during acceleration!!

i also have been reading up alot on the plus minus percentages in the safc2. i am running lo, 0% @ 1k, -15 across the board from 2k-7k
hi, -30 across the board. car seems to run good with these settings. i know every car is different.
if im way off with these settings, lease step in and let me know.
i am running 550's with a 190 pump,fmic,...around 10psi. would like about 12-15psi. but am happy with 10 untill i get a wideband. so any settings that you might have? please share.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

**UPDATE**

hesitation, due from clogged injector. car is running smooth during acceleration!!

i also have been reading up alot on the plus minus percentages in the safc2. i am running lo, 0% @ 1k, -15 across the board from 2k-7k
hi, -30 across the board. car seems to run good with these settings. i know every car is different.
if im way off with these settings, lease step in and let me know.
i am running 550's with a 190 pump,fmic,...around 10psi. would like about 12-15psi. but am happy with 10 untill i get a wideband. so any settings that you might have? please share.

Glad you figured out part of your problem. I would still do a boost leak test as soon as possible. There are many places that can be leaking besides the obvious intercooler pipes (tb shaft selas, injector seals, I'm gasket, tb gasket, bov gasket, bov, welds, pin holes, vacuum lines, pcv valve, valve seals, etc). Doing a boost leak test and fixing the problems willl help your car run better, make more power, make the turbo last longer (its not working as hard to maintain the same boost level), and give you better fuel ecomony. Its all win.

I have never messed with an SAFC as I went straight from the stock ECU to DSMlink so I can't help you there. I would start searching and if you can't find what you are looking for go ahead and start a new thread for that.

 

[1991eagleawd]

Glad you figured out part of your problem. I would still do a boost leak test as soon as possible. There are many places that can be leaking besides the obvious intercooler pipes (tb shaft selas, injector seals, I'm gasket, tb gasket, bov gasket, bov, welds, pin holes, vacuum lines, pcv valve, valve seals, etc). Doing a boost leak test and fixing the problems willl help your car run better, make more power, make the turbo last longer (its not working as hard to maintain the same boost level), and give you better fuel ecomony. Its all win.

I have never messed with an SAFC as I went straight from the stock ECU to DSMlink so I can't help you there. I would start searching and if you can't find what you are looking for go ahead and start a new thread for that.

thanks, i plan on a boost leak test. but not until my new turbo kit and wide band comes in. then a leak test will be done. as far as the safc goes.....how much is a dsm link cost? is that the best way of tuning and monitoring?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

thanks, i plan on a boost leak test. but not until my new turbo kit and wide band comes in. then a leak test will be done. as far as the safc goes.....how much is a dsm link cost? is that the best way of tuning and monitoring?

New turbo kit? Can you explian what exactly you mean by this? Also if you are new to modifying DSMs check out this link: Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

Either way, there is no need to wait on the boost leak test. You can pressurize your system starting at your throttle body inlet and just check that half of the intake tract for now. Then once that is holding what you want you can move back to the turbo inlet and check everything all together.

Go here to read up on DSMlink: ECMTuning, Inc.. There are two current versions, v3 full ($495) and v3 lite ($375). They do require an EPROM ECU, if you already have one good, if not they can convert a non EPROM ECU into an EPROM for $95 (more info here: nonepromprocess [ECMTuning - wiki]). DSMlink is a very user friendly complete tuning and logging system and has been proven on DSMs making over 1000hp.

 

[1991eagleawd]

New turbo kit? Can you explian what exactly you mean by this? Also if you are new to modifying DSMs check out this link: Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

Either way, there is no need to wait on the boost leak test. You can pressurize your system starting at your throttle body inlet and just check that half of the intake tract for now. Then once that is holding what you want you can move back to the turbo inlet and check everything all together.

Go here to read up on DSMlink: ECMTuning, Inc.. There are two current versions, v3 full ($495) and v3 lite ($375). They do require an EPROM ECU, if you already have one good, if not they can convert a non EPROM ECU into an EPROM for $95 (more info here: nonepromprocess [ECMTuning - wiki]). DSMlink is a very user friendly complete tuning and logging system and has been proven on DSMs making over 1000hp.

I plan on getting at least a wideband for tuning. And by turbo kit, I mean, new turbo, mani, fmic, and pipes, new bov, Hot side turbo part... Not sure what it's called. and I'm thinking external wastegate.(if it's better)? Any other advice would be nice. I'm hoping to find a dsm garage in Toronto and have them do all install and tune. I only plan on putting max 50 miles untill then. So a leak test might just wait two weeks until all that stuff gets dropped in. Unless u (wiseman) think I should go another route?
Thanks by the way eclipse. You have been amazingly helpful. I'm looking forward to picking more of your brain. I'll post pics soon of final product.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I plan on getting at least a wideband for tuning. And by turbo kit, I mean, new turbo, mani, fmic, and pipes, new bov, Hot side turbo part... Not sure what it's called. and I'm thinking external wastegate.(if it's better)? Any other advice would be nice. I'm hoping to find a dsm garage in Toronto and have them do all install and tune. I only plan on putting max 50 miles untill then. So a leak test might just wait two weeks until all that stuff gets dropped in. Unless u (wiseman) think I should go another route?
Thanks by the way eclipse. You have been amazingly helpful. I'm looking forward to picking more of your brain. I'll post pics soon of final product.

The reason I was asking about the "turbo kit" is because I don't know of any reputable DSM venders that sell turbo "kits". It sounds like an ebay package which would be a terrible mistake. Turbo kits are usually sold for cars that don't come turbocharged and you have to throw everything on at the same time. Your car already has all that stuff, and its better quality then what you would get from ebay.

The reason I posted the upgrade paths for you is because a turbo should really be one of the last things you decide to upgrade. The 1g DSMs came with a 14b (assuming you have a manual transmission) which is a very capable turbo which a few DSMer's have taken in to the 10's and 11's, and LOTs of DSMer's have taken into the 12's and 13's in the 1/4 mile. Plus it spools fast and is great for autocross and street driving as well. However if you are looking for more power then the 14b offers, the MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) Evo 3 16g is a very affordable and a very impressive, while still stock appearing, turbo upgrade. Or depending on your goals and budget the sky is the limit with turbos.

Also the 1g BOV is a very quality piece which a lot of 2g DSMer's upgrade to. Also it's so good that the Nissan Skylines and GTR's came with it from the factory. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/408017-1g-bov-comes-stock-nissan-gtr.html

It is a good idea to upgrade your stock 1g exhaust manifold. They are very prone to cracking and I wouldn't be surprised if your is cracked. A pre turbo exhaust leak (as in a manifold crack), will hurt your turbo's performance. A very cheap, quality upgrade would be a 2g exhaust manifold. They are much less prone to cracking. Also depending on your goals you can port it out to make it flow better. Or if you have room in your budget, thehttp://store.forcedperformance.net/...oduct_Code=EMFPRace&Category_Code=DSM-Exhaust is considered by many to be one of the best street/strip manifold available. The thing about the ebay tubular headers is that they are very cheaply made and crack and break easily. Also with tubular headers in general, they put of a LOT of heat into your engine bay and are known for melting stuff. I personally wouldn't use a tubular manifold on a primarily street driven car.

I tell you all this so that you won't go out and buy a cheap ebay turbo kit and actually lower your cars performance and reliability. Take some time to look over the upgrade paths, some time to formulate a goal for your car as well as a budget, and most importantly a lot of time to research any and all parts you intend to buy. DSM's have been on the market for 20 years now so whatever you are planning to do, it's already been done (and most likely its on this site somewhere). Read up on if it worked well and is recommended or if it worked badly and should be avoided.

The wideband is always a good idea, especially when you are messing with your fuel trims. To be honest I don't know how people tuned so well back in the old days of DSM's without them. Get it, it will make your life easier and also your tunes more accurate.

There's some more of my brain for you. I'm glad to help, I've been in this game for 9 years now, and while I'm still learning myself, there are a lot mistakes that I've made, and seen other make, that hopefully you will be able to avoid. These are great cars with a LOT of potential as long as you take to time research what works.

Lastly, something I haven't mentioned yet is maintenance. Before you start upgrading too much, you need to make sure you have a mechanically sound platform on which to begin. I would do a back tune up first (if it hasn't been done already), NGK plugs and wires, OEM fuel filter, K&N air filter, etc and I would do a compression test to see what's going on inside your engine. Do you know the last time (or if ever) the timing belt was replaced? You do NOT want that snapping on you. Its is supposed to be changed every 60,000 miles.

 

[1991eagleawd]

clipse DOHC , wow. you are intense. you alone is worth joining this site. thanks again so much for your time and efforts.

first ill say, i already bought a tubular mani. due to the heat it may let off....im going to wrap it up before install. hope that helps. ? and i am definitely going to get a bigger turbo for her. 16 g maybe. ill research the turbos that are affordable and give great boost. judging from you, 16g might be my goal. i had a scm61 on my old talon, and it was intense. i also plan on a fmic and pipes. i was looking at the links from this site, and seen a few ic set ups that looked nice. as for bov, i dont mind keeping it now i know its that good.

i have read that external wastegates are better for high psi settings? is this accurate?
in the end i would like to be running 15-18 psi, with a nice clean looking setup. im not beating on this car, if thats what your thinking. i already beat my old one down with 28psi. been there, done that, drained accounts....so im done F ing around. and now that ive had my fun, im looking to have a solid quick talon that i can rely on.
i was also looking at crowler cams, with valve springs. waste of money? i dont want to get to far into the engine. but that is a fairly cheaper part(s).
and clipse, do you know of a laptop program for my palm and stein ? i have a plug in it already installed. it has a 9 prong plug.

so......
-FMIC with new pipes.
-16 g turbo
-wrapped tubular manifold
-stock BOV, unless someone has a suggestion that will benefit the setup better?
-wideband
-and hot side turbo exhaust.

please these are not final, and i know you do not suggest the tubular, but i bought it already.
and when this is all said and done, i got 73 more question for you. whats your thoughts on a electronic boost controller?

 

[chino9656]

With the EBC, if you want the ability to adjust your boost from inside the car, then go for it. You'll pay for the convenience. I had a profec B spec-II in my probe a few years ago...worked great, but not worth the investment IMO.
And for the bov, look into either crushing the 1g bov to hold higher boost. Or a greddy type-S like here: Greddy type-s bov blow off valve wrx sti evo s2000 350z | eBay

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

clipse DOHC , wow. you are intense. you alone is worth joining this site. thanks again so much for your time and efforts.

first ill say, i already bought a tubular mani. due to the heat it may let off....im going to wrap it up before install. hope that helps. ? and i am definitely going to get a bigger turbo for her. 16 g maybe. ill research the turbos that are affordable and give great boost. judging from you, 16g might be my goal. i had a scm61 on my old talon, and it was intense. i also plan on a fmic and pipes. i was looking at the links from this site, and seen a few ic set ups that looked nice. as for bov, i dont mind keeping it now i know its that good.

i have read that external wastegates are better for high psi settings? is this accurate?
in the end i would like to be running 15-18 psi, with a nice clean looking setup. im not beating on this car, if thats what your thinking. i already beat my old one down with 28psi. been there, done that, drained accounts....so im done F ing around. and now that ive had my fun, im looking to have a solid quick talon that i can rely on.
i was also looking at crowler cams, with valve springs. waste of money? i dont want to get to far into the engine. but that is a fairly cheaper part(s).
and clipse, do you know of a laptop program for my palm and stein ? i have a plug in it already installed. it has a 9 prong plug.

so......
-FMIC with new pipes.
-16 g turbo
-wrapped tubular manifold
-stock BOV, unless someone has a suggestion that will benefit the setup better?
-wideband
-and hot side turbo exhaust.

please these are not final, and i know you do not suggest the tubular, but i bought it already.
and when this is all said and done, i got 73 more question for you. whats your thoughts on a electronic boost controller?

Not a problem, I'm glad to help.

With the 1g BOV if you are running over ~15 psi it is a good idea to "crush" it. I'm am currently running a crushed 1g BOV at 20 psi and it is holding fine. Look up how to crush it on here but make sure you use a vacuum pump so you can tell how far to go (by when it opens), don't just crush it like a pancake. I have recently purchased a Tial 50 mm BOV and will be switching to it soon. Don't mistake what I said about the 1g BOV to mean that it is the best out there, its not, but it is a great, affordable (free for you since it came stock), readily available BOV that you can recirculate with. Which brings up another point, please recirculate your BOV( unless you are running SD or a GM MAF in Blow Through) regardless of how cool it may sound vented to the atmosphere.

Wrapping a tubular manifold will help with the heat obviously but it also makes manifolds more prone to cracking due to moisture getting trapped between the metal and the wrap. But since you've already got it, you might as well use it for as long as it will last.

External wastegates are known to hold your set boost better, especially the lower the boost you are trying to run. I was able to keep my boost creep under control on my 14b just by switching to a tubular o2 housing and am still using an internal wastegate. However an external wastegate setup (Tial 38 on the o2 housing) is on my wish list.

For cams and springs you will need to do a lot more research. Cams should be selected based on the turbo you are using. For springs I like Kiggly Behives (expensive and probably overkill for you) or the Manley springs. Make sure you get a spring with titanium retainers. Also the springs you use should be selected to work with the cams you choose. The higher duration the cams, the stronger the springs you will need.

I would (and do) use a manual boost controller. There are many comparisons on here, start reading:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/131228-mbc-ebc.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/136638-there-any-differance-performance-between-ebc-mbc.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/276305-ebc-mbc.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/38828-best-boost-controller-ebc-mbc.html

 

[1991eagleawd]

With the EBC, if you want the ability to adjust your boost from inside the car, then go for it. You'll pay for the convenience. I had a profec B spec-II in my probe a few years ago...worked great, but not worth the investment IMO.
And for the bov, look into either crushing the 1g bov to hold higher boost. Or a greddy type-S like here: Greddy type-s bov blow off valve wrx sti evo s2000 350z | eBay

sweet, thanks. is there a way i can have my talon NOT recirculate? cause when i get the new fmic and pipes. i dont think it will have a bov intake before the turbo.??
and im not going for a tone of performance, so if i can have it (safe) atmospheric, i would like that.

and i know clipse has a answer for this.

Not a problem, I'm glad to help.

With the 1g BOV if you are running over ~15 psi it is a good idea to "crush" it. I'm am currently running a crushed 1g BOV at 20 psi and it is holding fine. Look up how to crush it on here but make sure you use a vacuum pump so you can tell how far to go (by when it opens), don't just crush it like a pancake. I have recently purchased a Tial 50 mm BOV and will be switching to it soon. Don't mistake what I said about the 1g BOV to mean that it is the best out there, its not, but it is a great, affordable (free for you since it came stock), readily available BOV that you can recirculate with. Which brings up another point, please recirculate your BOV( unless you are running SD or a GM MAF in Blow Through) regardless of how cool it may sound vented to the atmosphere.

Wrapping a tubular manifold will help with the heat obviously but it also makes manifolds more prone to cracking due to moisture getting trapped between the metal and the wrap. But since you've already got it, you might as well use it for as long as it will last.

External wastegates are known to hold your set boost better, especially the lower the boost you are trying to run. I was able to keep my boost creep under control on my 14b just by switching to a tubular o2 housing and am still using an internal wastegate. However an external wastegate setup (Tial 38 on the o2 housing) is on my wish list.

For cams and springs you will need to do a lot more research. Cams should be selected based on the turbo you are using. For springs I like Kiggly Behives (expensive and probably overkill for you) or the Manley springs. Make sure you get a spring with titanium retainers. Also the springs you use should be selected to work with the cams you choose. The higher duration the cams, the stronger the springs you will need.

I would (and do) use a manual boost controller. There are many comparisons on here, start reading:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/131228-mbc-ebc.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/136638-there-any-differance-performance-between-ebc-mbc.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/276305-ebc-mbc.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/38828-best-boost-controller-ebc-mbc.html

so i have decided to go with a mbc. i have read up on `crushing`the bov. most say they have crushed it till the nipple is on the lip under it. sound accurate.question mark goes here. (for some reason my question marks look like this É.ÉÉÉ

anyways, i dont mind spending 100 on a atmosphere bov if i canÉ . i would like to go external wastegate, and a 16g with new pipes and IC.

oh!!!! i did a compression test. 90 across just kidding 153 across
tomorrow a friend of mine is going to do a boost leak test. and he says he has a smoke machine too if we need. ill keep you posted clipse. thanks again. and if you can point me in a external wastegate direction....É that would be great.
and no matter how much i turn the mbc, it only gives me 8 psi. so tomorrow ill know more. 153 across!!!! woohoo

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

sweet, thanks. is there a way i can have my talon NOT recirculate? cause when i get the new fmic and pipes. i dont think it will have a bov intake before the turbo.??
and im not going for a tone of performance, so if i can have it (safe) atmospheric, i would like that.

and i know clipse has a answer for this.

The recirculation port for the BOV is on the intake pipe (pre-turbo), not the intercooler pipes (post-turbo), so the FMIC will have no effect on your ability to recirculate your BOV. When shopping for an intake pipe make sure you get one with a recirculation port like a Dejon Powerhouse pipe.

Having your BOV recirculated will not only help with performance but also with drivability. Your MAS (Metered Air Sensor), which is located inside the air filter, measures the amount of air going through it and send it to the ECU. The ECU adds fuel based on the amount of air. When you close your throttle plate, your BOV opens, releasing the pressurized air back into the intake pipe. That air has already been measured by the MAS and the ECU is adding fuel for it. If your BOV is vented to the atmosphere, then that air is no longer there but the fuel is still being injected into the cylinders for it. This causes a rich condition after every shift.

Having a Speed Density setup (uses a MAP [Manifold Absolute Pressure] sensor and an IAT [Intake Air Temperature] sensor to determine the amount of fuel needed) or a MAF Translator with a GM MAF installed between your BOV and Throttle Body (called Blow Through) are the only ways to properly vent your BOV.

I would strongly recommend that you recirculate it as long as you are running the stock MAS setup.

so i have decided to go with a mbc. i have read up on `crushing`the bov. most say they have crushed it till the nipple is on the lip under it. sound accurate.question mark goes here. (for some reason my question marks look like this É.ÉÉÉ

anyways, i dont mind spending 100 on a atmosphere bov if i canÉ . i would like to go external wastegate, and a 16g with new pipes and IC.

oh!!!! i did a compression test. 90 across just kidding 153 across
tomorrow a friend of mine is going to do a boost leak test. and he says he has a smoke machine too if we need. ill keep you posted clipse. thanks again. and if you can point me in a external wastegate direction....É that would be great.
and no matter how much i turn the mbc, it only gives me 8 psi. so tomorrow ill know more. 153 across!!!! woohoo

Like I said, I would use a vacuum pump to crush it properly. Using a vacuum pump on mine before crushing it was opening at 15 inHG and after it was opening at 20 inHg of vacuum. It you crush it to far it will be worthless.

For an external wastegate I would check out Punishment Racing or MAP performance. External wastegates aren't cheap though, expect to pay between $500-$600 bucks minimum for a setup on the o2 housing. It will be up to you if you want to recirculate your wastegate or vent it to the atmosphere. Venting to the atmosphere is extremely loud and most people tire of it pretty quickly. When I switch to an external wastegate I will be recirculating mine.

Your compression numbers sound great! Just for your info the 1g 4G63T uses 7.8:1 compression cast pistons and has a standard compression of 164 psi with a service limit of 121 psi with a maximum allowable pressure difference (MAPD) of 14 psi.