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Turbo xs mbc install (help)

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1991eagleawd

10+ Year Contributor
88
0
Jul 5, 2011
toronto, ON, Canada
ok, so i just put in a fmic. and wanted to up the boost to 10-12 psi, so picked up a turbo xs mbc. i thought you just spliced it between the bov and wastegate.? no response. bare with me people, just bought this car. ive read up alot on installation of the mbc. but all systems are different. so ill just let you all know what i got.

ive read that if i hook up wastegate line to mbc, then a tee, one side going to bov, and other going to throttle vac line. will this work?

and secondly, i also have a new j pipe with a nipple on it. should i install this to better my mbc response? any help with be appreciated.
 
car started running bad again, pulled the injectors...clogged again. cleaned them, threw in another new fuel filter. running better.....which leads me to my next question... how can i clean my gas tank? ive read that filling with water and waiting a day then filling up will do it. ??? is this okay? im getting tired of taking fuel rail off....

i reattached re circulation hose. better idle. but when i start cold, it idles at 2000. then drops to 1000, then surges from 1000-1300 for two minutes till warm. then its fine. im sure its a leak some where..
i cannot get more than 8 psi. and i noticed a vacuum line under the throttle body. looks like its coming from some kind of unit that looks similar to the top of a bov. that has no line on it?

and thanks to clipse for all this amazing info. this page is forever in my favs.

what will the 1g bov hold without "crushing"?

i didnt get the chance to do a boost leak test. coming soon. and will keep you posted.
 
car started running bad again, pulled the injectors...clogged again. cleaned them, threw in another new fuel filter. running better.....which leads me to my next question... how can i clean my gas tank? ive read that filling with water and waiting a day then filling up will do it. ??? is this okay? im getting tired of taking fuel rail off....

i reattached re circulation hose. better idle. but when i start cold, it idles at 2000. then drops to 1000, then surges from 1000-1300 for two minutes till warm. then its fine. im sure its a leak some where..
i cannot get more than 8 psi. and i noticed a vacuum line under the throttle body. looks like its coming from some kind of unit that looks similar to the top of a bov. that has no line on it?

and thanks to clipse for all this amazing info. this page is forever in my favs.

what will the 1g bov hold without "crushing"?

i didnt get the chance to do a boost leak test. coming soon. and will keep you posted.

You are welcome once again. I'm very glad to hear that you are recirculating your BOV, now if I could just get you to hurry up and do that boost leak test. :thumb:

Drain the gas tank first of all and dispose of it "properly". Then its up to you on which route you want to take. You can either throw in fresh premium gas or you can drop the tank and fully clean it out. It's a lot more work dropping the tank, but its doable.

Your car is supposed to idle higher when you first start it. That is due to the FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve), which raises the idle on cold starts to help your engine reach operating temperature faster. Once it's warmed up it should return to its normal idle. The way your car is acting is called Idle Surge and is a very common issue, usually a problem with your FIAV, a dirty or leaking Throttle Body (TB), a bad Idle Speed Controller (ISC), misadjusted or leaking Base Idle Speed Screw (BISS), or even caps leaking in the ECU. The FIAV is the lower portion of your TB and it has 2 coolant lines running to it. When the engine is cold, the FIAV causes the ECU to raise the idle so that it will warm up faster. It is in this period of higher idle that you are having a problem with your idle surging.

Check out these links:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/259300-fiav.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/2198-idle-surge-very-bad-need-help.html
Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)
TB Cleaning
1G BISS Adjustment
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/364030-idle-speed-control-not-good.html

Also do a search for "idle surge" under "titles only" and you will find 310 threads of people with the same problem as you.

A 1g BOV SHOULD hold about 15 psi uncrushed but that can vary from one unit to the other.
 
One thing that I noticed that everyone has overlooked here is that you should already be at 10 to 12 PSI with the stock wastegate / waste gate spring on the 14b as I understand it.

That is why I keep asking him to do a boost leak test. Regardless of what the turbo is putting out or the wastegate is set for, if it is leaking out, he will have less psi then he should.
 
That is why I keep asking him to do a boost leak test. Regardless of what the turbo is putting out or the wastegate is set for, if it is leaking out, he will have less psi then he should.

The leak test is second line line behind a problem that came up this morning....:(
I start this morning and no problem, beside surging. And by the way, only surges for a couple minutes after idle comes down. Surges then fine.

But when I got to work, I noticed that the temp Gauge read nothing. So I took a look. And read up on a few theads, and the one where you plugged up some sensors.
I noticed that most of my lines (electric)are detached. Do you know where the line for the temp sensor is and goes? Was working fine this morning.? I'm sure it's the single wire, just making sure.

and someone told me today, i got a small 16g.??? news to me. previous owner told me it was a 14b.
 
Last edited:
The leak test is second line line behind a problem that came up this morning....:(
I start this morning and no problem, beside surging. And by the way, only surges for a couple minutes after idle comes down. Surges then fine.

But when I got to work, I noticed that the temp Gauge read nothing. So I took a look. And read up on a few theads, and the one where you plugged up some sensors.
I noticed that most of my lines (electric)are detached. Do you know where the line for the temp sensor is and goes? Was working fine this morning.? I'm sure it's the single wire, just making sure.

Yes, it is the one with the single wire.

On a 1g the sensor for the dash gauge, the engine coolant temperature gauge unit, uses a single Yellow/Green wire.

The engine coolant temperature sensor, used by the ECU, has 2 wires, one Yellow/Green (which goes to ECU Pin #20) and the other Green/Black (which goes to ECU pin #24, sensor ground). It doesn't matter which wire goes on which prong.

The 1g wiring is usually brittle and/or broken in this area. Cut the hard, brittle section out and solder in some new wire and use a standard female spade connector on the end. The spade connector attaches to the sensors perfectly. I've had to do this on my DSM as well.

Here's a diagram Brian (19eclipse90) made which should help visually with #4 being the temp sensor for the gauge:

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Hope this helps.
 

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Yes, it is the one with the single wire.

On a 1g the sensor for the dash gauge, the engine coolant temperature gauge unit, uses a single Yellow/Green wire.

The engine coolant temperature sensor, used by the ECU, has 2 wires, one Yellow/Green (which goes to ECU Pin #20) and the other Green/Black (which goes to ECU pin #24, sensor ground). It doesn't matter which wire goes on which prong.

The 1g wiring is usually brittle and/or broken in this area. Cut the hard, brittle section out and solder in some new wire and use a standard female spade connector on the end. The spade connector attaches to the sensors perfectly. I've had to do this on my DSM as well.

Here's a diagram Brian (19eclipse90) made which should help visually with #4 being the temp sensor for the gauge:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Hope this helps.

this worked perfect, yellow green, single prong. bamm temp gauge works!!! thanks again. boost leak this week! cant wait, keep you posted
 

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