Turbo Dilemma: 14B or 16G

[etay89]

So when I bought my mystery DSM, I didn't know jack squat about the car, turbos, fuel management or anything like that. As I sit here typing this, I still know very little about turbos itself (don't worry, I'll read a write about turbos very soon after posting this).

Back to the situation (not a Jersey Shore reference ), so originally I thought the car came stock with the T25. Well, upon closer inspection, I saw TD05H engraved on the turbine, along with the numbers...78 11020. Upon light research, I found out that the turbo is not a T25...but yet a 14B. However, my car is throwing an error code P1103 (wastegate actuator), and I'm not sure if replacing the turbo is the right solution.

Well, recently I had a coworker who decided that his 2g Talon looked better wrapped around a tree than on the road, and he offered to sell me his turbo: a 16G for $350 (yes, it was off a turbo fwd talon, this was the turbo itself, o2 dump pipe, and down pipe all the way down to the high flow cat). I pretty much pounced on the opportunity. Well after more research... I found out that it was an ebay 16G. Not good. However the turbo has around 1k miles on it and for the most part is in good condition. For the record, I got this turbo AFTER i found about the error code my car was throwing.



Now what should I do? Should I resell the 16g and use that money to clean up my 14b or should i swap it out?

 

[velocitysport31]

I would snag the 16g, your wast gate actuator code is going to be because the stock boost controller is malfunctioned or the vacuum lines are not connected. Just disconnect the wires going to it and you should be fine.

 

[GTOJohnny67]

The Mitsu. 14b Should out last the ebay 16G. Though with proper mods the 16g could make more power. But I'd rather have the longevity of the 14b.

 

[dsm-onster]

You're better off with the 14b than the ebay 16g. You will likely get the 14b to a higher flow level than the ebay 16g as the ebay 16g will likely break if you push it. So technically the 14b will likely net better results.

 

[asg1089]

personally i think you got a little ripped off being that you can pull an e3 16g from ebay brand new for about the same price. but as for the error code i used to get that when i hit boost cut too hard with my mhi e3 16g. and i have read on here that some people have great experiences with the ebay turbo and some don't, the only good thing about it is that when it fries itself they are cheap enough to just buy a new one.

 

[GTOJohnny67]

Follow the vacuum line from the waste gate back to the factory boost controller (assuming they are hooked up) find the electrical connection on it. Unplug it and trying cleaning it with wd40. Some times corrosion can cause the code. Unhook your bat. to reset computer and see if code comes back up.

 

[etay89]

I would snag the 16g, your wast gate actuator code is going to be because the stock boost controller is malfunctioned or the vacuum lines are not connected. Just disconnect the wires going to it and you should be fine.

i got a manual boost controller..seems to work fine...and i checked the vac lines..i DID have a leak, and fixed it, but havent gotten around to hookin up the odb2. for the record...my car isn't here..its currently getting a crappy maaco job

 

[Hitmachine101]

stay with the 14b -- IMO i would sell the 16g if its ebay, you can really squeez alot of power out of that 14b before maxing it out, you push that ebay 16g and it will likely break

the error code can be easily fixed, most likely and if theres little shaft play in that 14b it will last you many miles to come -- stick with reliable for now and when your cars running well and you want more -- turn the boost up and supporting mods till you max that thing out -- then look into a real 16g

i got a manual boost controller..seems to work fine...and i checked the vac lines..i DID have a leak, and fixed it, but havent gotten around to hookin up the odb2. for the record...my car isn't here..its currently getting a crappy maaco job

whyyyyyyyyy

i really wish those guys would just go out of business

i ve seen so many M3 s with badddd macco jobs -- it makes me sooo sadd to see that

but ya clear that code and see if it pops back up

 

[velocitysport31]

I didnt see that it was an ebay turbo....sorry, yeah I would keep that 14b.

 

[etay89]

stay with the 14b -- IMO i would sell the 16g if its ebay, you can really squeez alot of power out of that 14b before maxing it out, you push that ebay 16g and it will likely break

the error code can be easily fixed, most likely and if theres little shaft play in that 14b it will last you many miles to come -- stick with reliable for now and when your cars running well and you want more -- turn the boost up and supporting mods till you max that thing out -- then look into a real 16g



whyyyyyyyyy

i really wish those guys would just go out of business

i ve seen so many M3 s with badddd macco jobs -- it makes me sooo sadd to see that

but ya clear that code and see if it pops back up

trust me, i'm scared deathly, but at this point, i really dont care. just dont want a white car . besides, the maaco here is actually good. i've seen the work they do..and though it's not the best, it's sufficient enough. it's not like i plan to make this a show car or anything.

but another thing. recently i replaced my manifold with an ebay manifold (im slowly learning what to and NOT to buy off ebay) and discovered...there was like this metal clip inside my turbine... which seriously hurt the car performance-wise..but after it was removed..whoo did it spool up QUICK. but i just fear that whatever that thing was did damage to the turbo. i also wouldn't mind rebuilding the turbo either.

 

[JusMX141]

Well, recently I had a coworker who decided that his 2g Talon looked better wrapped around a tree than on the road, and he offered to sell me his turbo: a 16G for $350 (yes, it was off a turbo fwd talon, this was the turbo itself, o2 dump pipe, and down pipe all the way down to the high flow cat).

So he sold you a used turbo which cost $200 new, a $50 o2 dump, and a $70 downpipe all for $350? Hell of a nice guy.

I've heard there's a guy local to you that sells rebuilt Genuine MHI turbos at good prices- perhaps you should check into him next time before someone else sells you a used knockoff junk turbo for top dollar.

 

[FLASH1970]

Post up some pics of the e-bay one...

 

[etay89]

So he sold you a used turbo which cost $200 new, a $50 o2 dump, and a $70 downpipe all for $350? Hell of a nice guy.

I've heard there's a guy local to you that sells rebuilt Genuine MHI turbos at good prices- perhaps you should check into him next time before someone else sells you a used knockoff junk turbo for top dollar.

me=noob. some dsmers wont talk to me just because of all the mods im trying to do...to an auto.

oh HEY heres some pics!

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[FLASH1970]

Sell the turbo. Use the 14B.

 

[JusMX141]

^ ^ Yeah, but what's a used knockoff worth when you can buy a new one for $200?

I say pull the 7cm turbine housing and adjustable actuator off the knockoff junker, use that on the 14B.


Just out of curiosity, why aren't you using the o2 dump and the downpipe? Those dump housings mate to the outlet of an Evo III 7cm turbine housing quite well and are a full 2.5" the entire way through. Not a bad option for the money; just a little loud when the gate's open.

 

[dsm-onster]

Yep. Ebay. As I said, you can push the 14b farther before it will break.

 

[jestoy7]

^ ^ Yeah, but what's a used knockoff worth when you can buy a new one for $200?

I say pull the 7cm turbine housing and adjustable actuator off the knockoff junker, use that on the 14B.

This is a good idea. Odds are your 14b's hot side has some cracks in it. After you replace it with the newer turbine housing, the turbo should run a lot better.

 

[dsm-onster]

And will have a larger turbine housing netting more power per psi and holding more boost to redline allowing you to max out the 14b compressor easier. 34lb/min of fun. Vs a turbo that will likely blow being pushed to 28lb/min.

 

[etay89]

very awesome.. very helpful. all great ideas...and i'll probably listen. i was already thinking about pulling the actuator off... didn't know i could use the turbine housing too (or whether it would be a good idea to do so)

as for not using the o2 dump and downpipe, i'll probably use the downpipe but not the dump. i dont know any mechanics that would let me slide inspection with that on...plus neighbors already complain about my loud ass car now

 

[jestoy7]

Either sell the dump or have it welded back into the exhaust.

 

[JusMX141]

i was already thinking about pulling the actuator off... didn't know i could use the turbine housing too (or whether it would be a good idea to do so)

You can't easily intermix the actuators and housings by design, so whatever actuator you use will have to stay with the corresponding turbine housing.

as for not using the o2 dump and downpipe, i'll probably use the downpipe but not the dump. i dont know any mechanics that would let me slide inspection with that on...plus neighbors already complain about my loud ass car now

The dump won't be open unless you're making enough boost to open the wastegate...so unless you're an ass and drive through your residential neighborhood at full throttle, your neighbors will never know what o2 housing you're using.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

don't sell the auto short. Auto tranny is very strong and capable of some nice times with little to no modification.

I also vote 14b. The 14b is a solid 12sec turbo and very durable.

 

[etay89]

the guy is giving me my money back...problem solved

don't sell the auto short. Auto tranny is very strong and capable of some nice times with little to no modification.

I also vote 14b. The 14b is a solid 12sec turbo and very durable.

i agree...but these 5 speed fools dont see it the way i do

 

[dsm-onster]

Tell them to look up Lucas English. 16g and auto. net times comparable to the best e3 16g car ever built

 

[etay89]

Tell them to look up Lucas English. 16g and auto. net times comparable to the best e3 16g car ever built

maybe a bit unrealistic...but i'm only takin this car to the track maybe once or twice. once i'm done modding, i want this to be a 13-14sec car.