TSi AWD Replacing clutch, what else while in there.

[bwhipple]

I recently purchased a 2g Eagle Talon TSi AWD. Car has over 100k on the motor, tranny is supposed to be fresh. Compression test was 185+ on all cylinders so I felt good about that. I am planning on building it a bit but mostly keeping it a spirited daily driver. (I have an 03 Mustang GT Vert with over 460rwhp for the fun stuff.)

My question is while I am replacing the clutch is there anything else I should be replacing or checking while I'm in there. I plan on getting an ACT 2100 with the street disc, and an ACT throwout. ANY suggestions are appreciated. I like to do things the right and best way even if it costs more. I rather not be kicking myself later for not doing something. Thanks!

 

[Harriz801]

One thing you will always hear around this forum is to ALWAYS use an O.E.M. throw out bearing.

Other than the OEM TOB, most people put in a pivot ball, and clutch fork.

Make sure to get the flywheel machined to the proper "step" height as well.

 

[viperlp01]

Ya OEM TOB and i would change the slave when your down there, 100k and upgrading your pressure plate might save you some hassle down the road... When i did my clutch I changed master, slave, ran SS clutch line because the rubber stuff sucks, put a washer on my pivot ball( I don't think you need to put a washer on a 2100, only 2600 and up) new oem clutch folk, new oem TOB and havent had one problem yet ...

 

[DGajre777]

When I replaced my factory clutch with a ACT 2100 with their 6 puck sprung hub disc, I got all of these:
- OEM Master Cylinder
- OEM Slave Cylinder
- ACT Flywheel
- OEM TOB
- OEM Clutch fork
- OEM Fulcrum ball
- SS clutch line (short one)
- OEM Rear main oil seal
- Rear motor mount

 

[djalogik]

like DGajre777 said the the rear and tranny mount would be a really good idea.

 

[Demon33]

When I replaced my factory clutch with a ACT 2100 with their 6 puck sprung hub disc, I got all of these:
- OEM Master Cylinder
- OEM Slave Cylinder
- ACT Flywheel
- OEM TOB
- OEM Clutch fork
- OEM Fulcrum ball
- SS clutch line (short one)
- OEM Rear main oil seal
- Rear motor mount

+1 on the flywheel and rear main seal. I just replaced my clutch and figured while I was in there I would also replace the flywheeel (Fidanza aluminum) and rear main seal. It wasn't much more time or effort, as the bulk of the job had been done in removing the transmission. I also rebuilt my leaking clutch slave cylinder. My clutch master cylinder is leaking so that's next on my list.

Unless they are severely worn or damaged, you can save on the purchase of a new clutch fork and pivot ball by shimmng the pivot ball with a washer or two. Many, including myself have had no problems doing this.

 

[gofer]

add new flywheel bolts to the list as well... if your removing them and just ONE rounds off a little theres no way your going to be able to torque it back down without really stripping it.

 

[Demon33]

add new flywheel bolts to the list as well... if your removing them and just ONE rounds off a little theres no way your going to be able to torque it back down without really stripping it.

To lessen the chance of rounding a bolt head I used a 6-point socket and a pneumatic impact driver. I carefully worked my way around the bolt pattern loosening each bolt a little at a time until they began to come off very easily. I reused my stock bolts being very careful not to let the torque wrench and socket slide off the bolts or tilt at an angle while torquing. I used loctite (red) and torqued the bolts to about 85 ft. lb. and then to their final torque of 99 ft. lb.

 

[bwhipple]

Believe it or not I am finally getting around to this. Since my last post I machined the head, new headgasket, arp headstuds, HKS 264 cams, and AEM Tru-Boost and am starting to finally get a little familiar with this cars mechanics. I discovered the car also has a 14b in it.

I put a new master and slave in the car this weekend to ensure that wasn't the problem. I also purchased an ACT 2100 this morning. I will be getting a new fork, pivot ball, OEM rear main seal, and and OEM TOB and clip. I have an ACT TOB that comes with the clutch, is it better to just use the OEM TOB?

Also I picked up a used Fidanza aluminum flywheel and got a new surface for it. In view of the new flywheel and this being an ACT 2100, do I need to worry about shimming the pivot ball? Thanks.