The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

replacing clutch. what else should I replace while im in there.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

boostadd1ct

10+ Year Contributor
142
1
Aug 4, 2012
hayward, California
replacing my engine. So im changing my clutch to act 2600 and fidanza.
new clutch release and pilot bearing of course.

been doing some research on this and it seems like people are having issues with clutch fork and pivot ball.

I decided that im going with aftermarket and get it over with.

Competition Clutch Clutch Fork - 1XRACING - AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES PERFORMANCE PARTS WHOLESALE

what do you guys think? any better options?

my main question is what else should I replace that is usually better off replacing?

clutch line?

just double checking.
 
make sure the fidanza step height is correct for the act.. i think it is. also, when you get the trans up on the motor make sure the fork is centered in the window, or pointing a little to the driver side. the slightest deviation on step height can cause clutch drag, and screw up syncros fast (my life right now) good news is your light clutch disc and flywheel makes things much easier on your syncros. do a stainless braided clutch line, and adjust the master cylinder for max travel, theres a video on here somewhere if you search.

you should be fine though..

our cars dont use pilot bearings :hellyeah:
 
Oem tob, maybe the fork, pivot ball, that sounds like it, not much to it, a clutch job basically with the components you wish to use.
 
Oem tob, maybe the fork, pivot ball, that sounds like it, not much to it, a clutch job basically with the components you wish to use.

+1 for the OEM tob, pivot ball, an clutch fork. I would also recommend that you replace the rear main seal while you have it out if it hasn't been replaced before. As for the clutch line, I picked up the full line 96" I believe from extremepsi and absolutely loved the quality. Also take a look at you slave and master for damage or leakage while your at it. Much easier to replace all while the tranny and batteries are out. Especially to route the SS line.
 
Like the others said, OEM TOB, either OEM or billet clutch fork, maybe even the slave depending on how old it is.

I would get ARP flywheel bolts too since the fidanza is thicker. That's just personal preference, I've seen catastrophes happen a couple times, some near misses etc. The last thing you want is a flywheel ripping through the dash board.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top