Replacing my Clutch. What else should I replace once trans is out ?

[CONSIGLIERI]

Hello friends

I'll replace my Clutch and I'd like to know what else should I replace once trans is out ?

I will replace:

- XTD STAGE 4 CLUTCH
- ACT Streetlite DSM 7-Bolt FWD Flywheel
- OEM Throw Out Bearing
- OEM Pivot Ball
- Competition Clutch Forged Steel Clutch Fork
- OEM 7 Bolt Flywheel Bolt (M12 x 21.2mm)
- Master and Slave Cylinders

- Should I get clutch seals also ? Which seals ?

Thanks !!!!

 

[Timechg]

Maybe install a SS clutch line.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Thats it grab a ss line from stm, or extremepsi and your good to go.

 

[FromFordtoDSM]

shim the pivot ball. it makes the car shift better. Since its out you may as well change the fluid. get the thinnest synthetic fluid you can get she'll shift better than before.

 

[pauleyman]

shim the pivot ball.

I disagree. If you need to do this it's a bandaid in my opinion. Do not trust the flywheel. Check the step height before installation. Now would be the time to replace anythign that is worn including the fork, pivot ball, seals etc.

 

[FromFordtoDSM]

I've done it every time and it really does make the trans shift better. its free, quick, and effective. why not?

He's replacing the pivot ball but something you could get is a billet shift fork, that stage 4 clutch will take a toll on the oem one.

 

[pauleyman]

why not?

Why not? Because it merely masks another hidden problem. If the system is functioning properly this is not needed. Adding a shim can let the fork hit the pressure plate. It's something that can be done, but I pesonally don't. Anybody else may do as they please.

 

[curt-s]

Exactly. I had a shim under the pivot ball, albeit a pretty thick one, but the fork never hit the PP. Instead, it caused RPM drop on clutch disengagement, making me think I misaligned the thrust bearing.
Removed the shim, drop went away. Once I adjusted the master cylinder rod, I got my clutch throw back to the same level of notichiness garbage No difference.

 

[SmoochDarling]

Don't just throw a shim in if your setup was shifting correctly in the first place. You should never need to shim unless something is out of spec in your flywheel or clutch adjustments.

I would do a real good clean of the tranny, make sure there are no ripped seals, no ripped cv boots, possibly pick up some new fluids and call it a day.

 

[codeofdastreets]

replace clutch fork also, and I have built alot of dsm"s and never ran into a problem with a washer that was put behind a pivot ball, but like they say " each is own"..

 

[Tyeler18]

Don't shim it. There's no shim from the factory because no shim is needed, especially with a brand new fork/pivot ball. The first dsm clutch I did, I followed some morons advice to shim my brand new pivot ball. The next day the tranny was out again because it was causing the forks to over extend and grind. Never used a shim since in the bazillion dsm clutches I've done and no problems at all.

 

[greengoblin2011]

I'd go ahead and replace the axle seals on the tranny as well. Cheap and easy. Worth the small piece of mind IMHO.

 

[andrew k]

depending on what kind of milage is on the motor, i would also consider throwing in a new oem mitsu rear main seal on the motor while its out in the open.

 

[PrimerPLus]

For tranny fluid go with redline MT90
And do the clutch line swap. Personally I went with the short one.

 

[Ryan4dc]

Check the trans mounts. All 3. Check cv shaft boots for wear. You would also be on the ground to see any oil leaks around the turbo drain/oil pressure/oil sending unit.

 

[93TSiguy]

The last 4 posts are dead on... do all of that. Someone else mentioned earlier also mentioned the shift fork... DEFINITELY want to do that with a "stage 4" anything. I snapped my right in half after NOPI a few years back on an act2600... get the Stainless Steel one from the Evo (III?). Mitsu should carry them still its under $100... could of sworn i paid around $80 in 2008.

 

[CONSIGLIERI]

Hey guys, I appreciate everyone's help.

I hust have another question and hope you can help me... I have already purchased the XTD Stage 4 Unsprung and I'm just waiting for my ACT Flywheel to arrive...

BUT after re-reading some reviews AGAIN, I'm not sure if I still want a 6 puck unsprung for my clutch since my car is going to be basically a DAILY DRIVER, doing some pulls often. Also I'm planning on 350whp MAX. It's a FWD

If anyone has experience with this kind of disk, could you tell me if the car rattles TOO MUCH at a stop light or a level (ramp) ? Also do the clutch engages and disengages instantly, feeling like it's ON or OFF ?

If it will be overkill for my goals, should I sell the whole XTD Setup or keep the PP and buy a new "smoother" disk, like an ACT street disk ?

THANKS !!!

 

[Timechg]

There are several threads about the XTD Stage 4 Clutch:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/450248-xtd-stage-4-after-5k.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/279022-xtd-clutch.html

Most have said the stage 4 unsprung is the 'best' XTD clutch. I am running the unsprung disc right now and have no major drive-ability issues (but I have less than 2k on the clutch).

 

[CONSIGLIERI]

There are several threads about the XTD Stage 4 Clutch:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/450248-xtd-stage-4-after-5k.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/279022-xtd-clutch.html

Most have said the stage 4 unsprung is the 'best' XTD clutch. I am running the unsprung disc right now and have no major drive-ability issues (but I have less than 2k on the clutch).

I appreciate your feedback.
I've read a lot of reviews, that's why I bought the stage 4 unsprung.

My last doubt was about drivability due my need for a daily driver. I just don't want it to be a pain in the ass to drive it in heavy traffic and that...

 

[jrohner]

There is nothing wrong with the driveability and reliability of the XTD solid 6-puck. It holds torque great, yet the PP is light enough that it's not annoying in traffic. It also disengages good for nice shifts. I eventually broke the hub off the clutch disc since it only has 8 rivets holding it on, but I had a lot of passes at the track with 5500RPM launches - usually about 17 in one night mostly back-to-back. I now have an ACT solid 6-puck still using the XTD PP.

My XTD out-lasted quite a few transmissions, and lasted longer than my other clutches.



Get a new slave cylinder if yours isn't almost new; they don't have a long lifespan and can wreck your transmission when they go out and make you grind on a shift. I would replace it every couple years whether you need it or not since they're cheap and a key to good shifting.

 

[CONSIGLIERI]

There is nothing wrong with the driveability and reliability of the XTD solid 6-puck. It holds torque great, yet the PP is light enough that it's not annoying in traffic. It also disengages good for nice shifts. I eventually broke the hub off the clutch disc since it only has 8 rivets holding it on, but I had a lot of passes at the track with 5500RPM launches - usually about 17 in one night mostly back-to-back. I now have an ACT solid 6-puck still using the XTD PP.

My XTD out-lasted quite a few transmissions, and lasted longer than my other clutches.



Get a new slave cylinder if yours isn't almost new; they don't have a long lifespan and can wreck your transmission when they go out and make you grind on a shift. I would replace it every couple years whether you need it or not since they're cheap and a key to good shifting.

Thank you very much. I will also replace both cylinders, I forgot to mention that.

Do you think I should also get a reinforced fork instead of a oem one ?

 

[Clew]

Bump for a good post