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Should i replace my clutch?

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my95tsi

20+ Year Contributor
926
0
Dec 6, 2002
Chicago, Illinois
I'd really like to spend my money on other things like getting my rims and tires. I have 65000 miles on the stock clutch and it's still going strong. My only problem is that on start ups if i don't let it runs for atleast a couiple minutes the clutch will slip really badly in first gear. I have to let it slip in order to keep it from harshly slipping and pounding like wheel hop. This only happens in first and on startups. If i let it idle for a few minutes the clutch is fine. It has also NEVER slipped olut of any gear. I don't really pound on my clutch too much. If i happen to end up in a race i never dump the clutch i always feather it out to avoid abuse on the tranny and to avoid loss of traction. I want to get an act 2100 eventually but i figured that i should should just replace the clutch when it fianlly goes. Or am i wrong and i should replace it now?
 
Sounds like you may have some type of fluid leak that's getting on your clutch. That's why once you drive for a little it works fine so it MAY not be the actual clutch. I have never had this problem so it's just an educated guess.
 
Depending on the money situation you could really do both. Tell us how much money you have and what type of wheels/tires you are looking for.

As for the clutch. Well it might be fluids, it might be some sort of heat wear on the surfaces. Other than that you have to probly take it out to look at it. And if you go through that you might as well replace it while you are basically doing that anyway when you check it.

Correct performance should always be picked over looks anyday of the week. ;)

Good luck.
 
Well other than the minor slipping when its started up i have no problems whatsoever with the clutch. It works just fine for my application. Also i didn't say that i drove it to get the clutch to stopped slipping i said i have to let the car warm up before i drive it otherwise it will slip in first for the first minute or so. I plan on getting Rota Subzero's with whatever tires. I need new tires within the next month anyway b/c they are bald but i also want new rims so why don't i just get the combo. I'm not doing this for only looks my main concern is better handling, traction, and they are lighter, much lighter. Right now i have all season tires that suck ass. I need something better.
 
if you wanna keep your car just basically stock or w/minor mods just keep your stock clutch - if you plan on modding your car though I'd suggest the act 2600 (the 2100 is fine as well but I mean there is minor price difference b/w them so if you would choose to upg it you might as well go with the 2600 b/c it's only like $40 or so more.
 
Sounds like my clutch when it was gone. I also had some bad clutch chatter in the morning. There was nothing wrong with my drivetrain (no fluid leaks), it was simply the clutch disc on its last leg. It was so far gone that I used it for a mirror now. :D
 
Sorry man thats way too much for my needs. I wouldn't even consider putting a 2600 on a fwd unless it had a fully built race tranny. 99% of the guys on this board with fwd's use 2100's for a reason.
 
my95tsi said:
Sorry man thats way too much for my needs. I wouldn't even consider putting a 2600 on a fwd unless it had a fully built race tranny. 99% of the guys on this board with fwd's use 2100's for a reason.



What is this reason? Pedal Pressure? If this is the case then you are all seriously mistaken. If I can spend a mere $30 more for a clutch that holds more power, I am going for it. How many guys have you heard of the went to a 2600 and wished they would have stayed with a 2100? 100% would stick with the 2600 once they realize the cost/performance aspect. ;)
 
my95tsi said:
Anybody that knows anything about fwd's knows that a 2600 is too much. Sorry man i'm going to listen to the professionals on this one. :thumb:

Outstanding :thumb:

I was not pushing it on you or anyone. If your wishlist turbo is a T28 then you will do just fine with a 2100. :)
 
A 2100 is only rated to hold 312ft lbs. That number can be exceeded with a well setup 16G. If the T28 is all you ever want to do then that's cool but if you ever plan on going bigger or might (which you will) then get the 2600. And just so you know I have the 2100 and wish I had the 2600. Anyone wanna trade a 2600 PP for a 2100?
 
Like i mentioned before i would never take the chance. I would put a 2600 on my fwd if i had a fully built race tranny and a built 6 bolt that was completely rebuilt from the bottom up. Our trannys will break far before that clutch ever gives out plus with that much stress on the crank your asking for crankwalk.
 
Maybe you could quit being such an ass and actually listen to the people who are trying to help you. Maybe you haven't figured it out yet but Midnght knows his stuff, look at his sig. Know anyone else making 311 whp on 89 octane pump? I sure as hell don't. We're just trying to help you here. As far as crankwalk, quit your whining, crankwalk is way overrated. It's probably not going to happen and if it does you're one of the minority not the majority. Just like my car, it crankwalked completely stock when the former owner had it. Now with the factory Mitsu shortblock still going strong 1t 75k and running low 13's on pump there are no signs of crankwalk. Also especially for a FWD where you HAVE to slip the clutch to avoid traction issues at the beginning of the race, a 2600 will last a lot longer than a 2100 will. I'm done with this thread, if you want to continue to pretend that you know everything and ignore the help that others are trying to give then good luck with your car, I and hopefully everyone else here are done trying to help.
 
my95tsi said:
Syndicate13 why are you even posting you have a gsx? Of course your going to put a 2600 on your car. This is fwd's only.

It is not a FWD or AWD thing anyhow.

Yes, most people are afraid of the overrated CW issue. But that is a 1G/2G thing, not a FWD/AWD thing. It is only said to advance it, not cause it, there is a hugantic difference between cause and advance.
 
Your a douch bag, if you would have read the original post you would have realized that i'm not asking what clutch to get i'm asking if i should replace my clutch. So good why don't you just leave the thread. This is my first manual car so i'm not completely familiar with how a clutch feels whenj its goign out. I'm getting a 2100 b/c thats best for MY TASTE not yours. I have a friend with a ITR that when it came time to replacing the clutch it slipped out of almost every gear. Mine doesn't even slip out of gear. Like i said it slips slightly when it's not warmed up and it only does it in first. I just wanted an honest opinion of what i should do. To me it feels fine but i don't want to neglect something that should get replaced. I know alot about dsm's from being friends with people who own or used to own them. One of my good friends was one of the first people to start really modifyng 2g's back in the day. His gsx ran an 11.2 on a 2100 clutch with a crankwalked motor. Everything i need to know he tells me. I also learn alot from this forum and several others. So if you want to be an ass then #### off!!!


Syndicate13 said:
Maybe you could quit being such an ass and actually listen to the people who are trying to help you. Maybe you haven't figured it out yet but Midnght knows his stuff, look at his sig. Know anyone else making 311 whp on 89 octane pump? I sure as hell don't. We're just trying to help you here. As far as crankwalk, quit your whining, crankwalk is way overrated. It's probably not going to happen and if it does you're one of the minority not the majority. Just like my car, it crankwalked completely stock when the former owner had it. Now with the factory Mitsu shortblock still going strong 1t 75k and running low 13's on pump there are no signs of crankwalk. Also especially for a FWD where you HAVE to slip the clutch to avoid traction issues at the beginning of the race, a 2600 will last a lot longer than a 2100 will. I'm done with this thread, if you want to continue to pretend that you know everything and ignore the help that others are trying to give then good luck with your car, I and hopefully everyone else here are done trying to help.
 
Here are a couple other suggestions for you to look into. First, it may not be your clutch, but a warped fly wheel that could be turned and straightened back out. This can cause the car to hesitate on starts and also make the clutch grab very close to the floor. Then, once the car has header up, the material expands and the problem is solved until it cools down again. Thats one thought. Another thought, which is less likely, is you have a clutch slave or master cyl leak or bad "o" rings in one or the other. A good way to check this is to open up your clutch fluid reservoir and look for a discoloration/dark color. This is rotted rubber from the o rings and can cause your clutch to lose pressure/create air pockets thus not grab the way it should. Hope this helps man.
 
my95tsi said:
Syndicate13 why are you even posting you have a gsx? Of course your going to put a 2600 on your car. This is fwd's only.


what difference does that make? A 2100 is more likely to slip than a 2600 regardless of what kind of car it's in. Also an awd is less likely to get wheel spin than a fwd therefore an awd will experience more stress on the tranny so that isn't an issue.
 
my95tsi said:
Your a douch bag, if you would have read the original post you would have realized that i'm not asking what clutch to get i'm asking if i should replace my clutch. So good why don't you just leave the thread. This is my first manual car so i'm not completely familiar with how a clutch feels whenj its goign out. I'm getting a 2100 b/c thats best for MY TASTE not yours. I have a friend with a ITR that when it came time to replacing the clutch it slipped out of almost every gear. Mine doesn't even slip out of gear. Like i said it slips slightly when it's not warmed up and it only does it in first. I just wanted an honest opinion of what i should do. To me it feels fine but i don't want to neglect something that should get replaced. I know alot about dsm's from being friends with people who own or used to own them. One of my good friends was one of the first people to start really modifyng 2g's back in the day. His gsx ran an 11.2 on a 2100 clutch with a crankwalked motor. Everything i need to know he tells me. I also learn alot from this forum and several others. So if you want to be an ass then #### off!!!

Again another wonderful retort from someone who has everything figured out. If your friend is so great and all why did you even come here and ask our help, why not ask him? So if you feel the need and try to emasculate yourself by insulting people who are just trying to help then go ahead. However you won't be receiving any further help from me. Have a good day.
 
I know alot about dsm's from being friends with people who own or used to own them. One of my good friends was one of the first people to start really modifyng 2g's back in the day. His gsx ran an 11.2 on a 2100 clutch with a crankwalked motor.

Ok first off why are you being such an ass to people who have been in the position to replace a clutch and just trying to help you out? I dont get why you would ask for any assistance you obvioiusly have it all figured out. Secondly how does a crankwalked motor pull an 11.2 do you even know what crank walk means? Im sure you do since it happens to every 2g out there and there is so much knowledge out there about it that no one has a real proven ansewer to why or even how it happens. Its people like you that makes knowledgeable members of this board not want to help people that actually do need help and are willing to take advice and or listen to advice given from the knowledgeable members on this board.

Tyler
 
It's all good. I can only suggest options for people. It is your car and you can do what you want. But when you say things like

umm, i have a fwd not awd. 2600 would be a bit much. Can you say CRANKWALK?

then you come with

His gsx ran an 11.2 on a 2100 clutch with a crankwalked


It makes little sense. The argument of 2600 causing it over the 2100 is just thrown out with your buddies setup. If you look back I tried to help you with your situation in the first place. You came back with the beginnings of a clutch contest. I was just foolish enough to play along. Mistake on my part. :(
 
I'm sorry i came off like an asshole. Thats my fault. I apologize to Syndicate13 and midnght. I have just learned that a 2600 is too much clutch for a fwd. It has been posted several among several times on this board throughout the years. I was also told by fellow dsm owners that a 2100 is a perfect clutch upgrade for my car. The statement that my buddy ran 11.2 with a 2100 is true. He never had problems with his drivetrain and it was completely stock for over a year with the car pushing over 400 horses. His secret was changing the tranny fluid 2-3 times a year and using a 2100 clutch so it eliminates stress on the drivetrain so you can slip it out easier. However after the too mnay 11.2 runs he crankwalked the motor and it was done. He sold the car and now works on a 3g RX7. I agree with what midnight has to say about the 2600. Thats your choice. I to also believe that crankwalk is to overrated and people worry about it too much. I'm not scared to get crankwalk. If i do i'll either buy another dsm or buy a 6 bolt, no a big problem. I'm planing on getting a 2100 with an act flywheel as soon as i know that my clutch needs to be replaced. However i did mention that i need to get several other things too like tires. I am a college student and i am broke like mnay college students. After i get my 45000 a year job after college i'm going balls out on the talon and it's basically going to turn from daily driver to weekend/ track car. So from my simple question people answered that i should replace my clutch. So i take that into consideration. I have had several people drive my car and say my clutch is just fine. But it bothers me that it slips only during a startup but no other time. I do hear my syncros chattering at idle unless i depress the clutch and it goes away. There are tell tale signs that my clutch is old. The only problem is i usually like replacing things when they finally give out but i guess that why i have so many instances of a my car breaking down on the side of the road. Anyways i thank you guys for your input and i'll be getting my new clutch this summer as soon as i can figure out a place to install it cheap enough.
 
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