Transmission the weakest link?

[tin_tin13]

I'm looking to get in the dsm game but having my worries about the transmission holding up with the power levels. Currently have written out a 2.4long rod, 2g built head kelfords 272, Hx40 tial vband housing 1.0 a/r. I'm looking at the jacks hd transmission for now, so my question is how do I keepmyself from blowing trannies? Only thing I can think of is major weight reduction? I really don't want to look into a different platform being 2g has been one of dream builds.

 

[plamb09]

really just keep the launching down an it will last longer. if you slip the clutch an let it take the abuse it will help save the transmission

 

[combs-dsm]

Those trannies are still reliable trannies either way. Regardless tho still will have those times you can abuse it and times you will hage to baby it so to speak. Just get a good stage clutch to throw that abuse at.

 

[tin_tin13]

Main concern would be stripping gears at 500whp-600whp with a twin disc.

 

[combs-dsm]

Let the clutch take the abuse. But they are kinda pricy as well. So i would plan on getting a shep tranny when the clutch goes out and keep the jacks as a backup

 

[Cdc1221]

Or how about an auto with a shift kit

 

[clipto]

Biggest thing when I ran 5 speed back in the days is to never slam gears. They seemed to hold 500whp ok as long as you drive the trans smooth. Other then that switching to auto is the best way and has been bullet proof to me. Blown 7 5 speeds trans over 2 year period. Definitly get a good clutch it will do work for you on a trans. Weakest link is how you physicaly abuse the trans so taking that extra second to make sure it gets into gear instead of beating it into gear will make all the difference.

 

[T is for TURBO]

A well built DSM trans with a properly setup clutch and driven "intelligently" should last you some time. Like crankwalk, these "self destructing" dsm transmissions has been blown waaaaay out of proportion. A transmission that can handle 2-3 times the power it originally came with, is a well built transmission in my book!

Be nice to it, and it will be nice to you

 

[T is for TURBO]

A well built DSM trans with a properly setup clutch and driven "intelligently" should last you some time. Like crankwalk, these "self destructing" dsm transmissions has been blown waaaaay out of proportion. A transmission that can handle 2-3 times the power it originally came with, is a well built transmission in my book!

Be nice to it, and it will be nice to you

 

[twicks69]

Having the clutch as the weakest link will save the transmission. Stay away from puck clutches, stay away from twin disks, don't do repeated third or fourth gear pulls without cooldown time and don't let the car sit idling for long periods of time. When you turn the car on, go drive gently, don't let it sit idling to warm up, it will wreck 5th gear assembly.

 

[donniekak]

A well built DSM trans with a properly setup clutch and driven "intelligently" should last you some time. Like crankwalk, these "self destructing" dsm transmissions has been blown waaaaay out of proportion. A transmission that can handle 2-3 times the power it originally came with, is a well built transmission in my book!

Be nice to it, and it will be nice to you

Every Dsm trans pushed over 500ft/lbs will eventually strip the teeth off of the gears from a roll. No launch, or hard shift needed.

 

[tin_tin13]

Having the clutch as the weakest link will save the transmission. Stay away from puck clutches, stay away from twin disks, don't do repeated third or fourth gear pulls without cooldown time and don't let the car sit idling for long periods of time. When you turn the car on, go drive gently, don't let it sit idling to warm up, it will wreck 5th gear assembly.

With your info which clutch kit would you recommend? Since I will be driving this on the street. I have been looking on the tmzperformance site at clutches(staying away from act)

Ss 2200 pressure plate Full Face Organic/Feramic Clutch Disk is what's got my attention but wouldn't the Ss-x 2700pp be better suited for my needs.

 

[11Banger]

From a dig your t-case "assuming awd" & trans will give you the biggest problem.

& this isn't like a Honda or other "tuner" platform don't just dump the clutch

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

Having the clutch as the weakest link will save the transmission. Stay away from puck clutches, stay away from twin disks, don't do repeated third or fourth gear pulls without cooldown time and don't let the car sit idling for long periods of time. When you turn the car on, go drive gently, don't let it sit idling to warm up, it will wreck 5th gear assembly.

This is news to me. Is there a thread with further explanation about this? I let my car idle and warm up every time I drive it since it doesn't like to run very well until it is near operating temp.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

+1 to the above inwas inaware about 5th gear. Any proof to back that up? Seems you either sacrifice piston slap or 5th gear assembily dieing

 

[donniekak]

+1 to the above inwas inaware about 5th gear. Any proof to back that up? Seems you either sacrifice piston slap or 5th gear assembily dieing

5th gear is outside the bearing plate, and is the top most gear assembly in the end case. It only gets oiled when the car is moving.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

So whats the happy medium for people with expanding pistons and loose tolarances? I usually always let my car warm up to operating temp. Before going anywhere. Isn't the trans stationary until you engage gear? And then everything starts spinning? If so wouldn't it not
Matter if you waited to warm up the car or not?

 

[hotrodssnova]

The input shaft and the intermediate shaft will still spin with the clutch out and in neutral. The 5th gear and synchros are on the input shaft. The only oil it sees is from a plastic oil guide that collects oil from oil being flung off the shafts, runs along the guide, and dribbles on the 5th gear cluster in the end case.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

If the shafts are always spinning then wouldnt it lube it anyway? Something doesn't sound right.

 

[T is for TURBO]

So whats the happy medium for people with expanding pistons and loose tolarances? I usually always let my car warm up to operating temp. Before going anywhere.

When you turn the car on, go drive gently

You can still drive your car with forged internal while cold. Just don't load the hell out of it, or rev to the moon. Also, he's not saying you can't let it idle at all, just don't do if to pro-longed periods of time.

Food for thought: you're car takes a hell of a lot longer to warm up just sitting at idle vs lightly driving it. So I propose this question, is it better to idle a loose engine @ 800 rpm for 10 minutes until warm, or lightly drive the car @ 2000 rpm for 5 minutes?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Didnt answer my last question. If its moving anyway its getting lubed.

Plus an 8 min warm up is considered too long?

 

[boost97gst]

This is news to me. Is there a thread with further explanation about this? I let my car idle and warm up every time I drive it since it doesn't like to run very well until it is near operating temp.

+1000!! I had no Idea idling the car til it was warm was BAD??? I always do that so the oil is warmer and not so thick. I have done that with all my vehicles and have had incredible longevity out of everything ive owned.
In the winter when i would take the DSM out and it was, say, 30* out: I let the car warm up for atleast 10 minutes. When i get in i can see by the oil press. gauge that the oil has heated up a bit and the pressure has come down.
Now on days like today, i would only need to idle for maybe 5 minutes.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well??? Proof??

 

[TallestHERETIC]

+1000!! I had no Idea idling the car til it was warm was BAD??? I always do that so the oil is warmer and not so thick. I have done that with all my vehicles and have had incredible longevity out of everything ive owned.
In the winter when i would take the DSM out and it was, say, 30* out: I let the car warm up for atleast 10 minutes. When i get in i can see by the oil press. gauge that the oil has heated up a bit and the pressure has come down.
Now on days like today, i would only need to idle for maybe 5 minutes.

+1000000! I always let my car idle when it is very cold out. Never had any problems doing that repeatedly with my non turbo when i had it or even my GSX. Done it for years, too. It DOES eat away lots of gas in the long run, though.

I don't seem to understand the transmission reputation DSMs get, though. I have launched it many times by dumping and slipping it. Still no problems or any weird noises. Seems bulletproof.

 

[n0de]

, you cannot win. Either piston slap and a rebuild (costly) or a new trans/trans gear (also costly), depending on if your trans is built or not it might be better for you to just risk the trans over the block.