Transmission bolts the culpret?

[darkiller_666]

I have been trying to fix a problem my car has been having with the transmission. Basically any time I push the clutch the car dies in any gear. Its making a chirping sound from the trans area. The car was damn near impossible to put into any gear. If i started in neutral and pressed clutch to put it in gear, the car would die. If i started in 1st the car would move even with clutch to the floor. I have properly bled the system readjusted and check the master and slave cylinders. All seem to be fine. I was told it could be my TOB. A local mechanic who owns a few DSM's said he just had the exact same symptoms on one of his 1g's. He said on his the bolts on the Transmission loosened up and was causing exact same symptoms. Which bolt if any could he be talking about. I dont have a lift or tools, but a place i can go and rent to work on the car. I would like to have a general idea before i start paying for time.

What bolts on the transmission could cause my symptoms?
Is there a way to check the TOB without paying a shop to RandR the trans?
Any other ideas what might cause this?

 

[tjbiker031]

have you check to see if any of them are loose and the tranny is bolted up tight. i know when i droped my tranny i noticed it only had half of the bolts in and it fried the clutch because the bad of the tranny pushed away from the block .

 

[darkiller_666]

I dont know exactly what bolts im supposed to look for. Like i said i have to wait for booth time to get her off the floor and check. Which bolts exactly should i look at?

 

[olmytsi]

If it's not the trans, it could be crankwalk! No joke! Crankwalk causes the idle to drop down when the clutch is pushed in. If it's severe, it can cause the car to die.

 

[darkiller_666]

The car was having problems going into gear before this happened. That gears me towards thinking that it is sum thing to do with the clutch. No offense but every time i try to get answers on my problems someone always says its crank walk. I was told CW when i head a blown HG, CW for bad CPS...... I dont know exactly what bolts i should be checking. I guess im just gunna have to rent booth time blind.

 

[TALONTRAX]

Have someone sit in the car while it`s idling, & press the clutch pedal while you get a light & watch the crank pulley/balancer. If it moves outward(towards the body),then you`re crank is walking

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Leave it to DSM people to always come up with the, it's crankwalk theory because they have "seen it before". Very few motors actually crankwalk. Spinning a rod bearing, not crankwalk, spinning a main bearing, not crankwalk. Blowing a hole in your block, NOT caused by crankwalk. But still people seem to think it's the answer for everything. We are talking about the mounting bolts that hold it to the block. They can be seen in this writeup and you can see them from the top of the motor. Look at them and see where the transmission bolts to the block and make sure it is tight against it. My 92 TSi AWD did the exact same thing when I got in a hurry to get it on the road and didn't get it flush.
http://vfaq.com/proj-pics/clutch/1G/bolts.gif
If you look they are the 20999 bolts and you can figure out from there where they go on the block and how many there are.

 

[darkiller_666]

I cant get the car to start so i can idle and check for "crank walk". When i turn the key the engine turns over slow and makes a chirping from the transmission. If i turn it over while holding the clutch it turns over VERY slow. I checked the Master/slave and bled the system to no avail. Adjusted the master cylinder correctly. I am left with either the TOB or the trans is loose. I'm just trying to narrow it down before paying a local guy 200 to change the TOB and clutch fork. Id be pissed to get it back still doing this. Same guy said there's bolts on the T-case i should look at? I know nothing about the T-case or Trans really. Thanx for the help

 

[luv2rallye]

...If i turn it over while holding the clutch it turns over VERY slow.

A siezed TOB is definately a possibility but this can't be checked w/o pulling the tranny.
Even so with this symptom you describe, if the tranny bolts are tight, a check for crankwalk would be prudent especially since you can do it from outside the engine. If ok then suspect TOB.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...-check-crankshaft-end-play.html#post151703279.
(The flywheel cover is at the bottom of the tranny on bell housing. If you don't have a dial indicator use a caliper. Even if you have nothing at least see if it moves visually.)

Crankwalk explaination:
1000 AAQ - Terms.

 

[darkiller_666]

I guess i will check for CW. I just dont understand really i guess how this would of caused my trans to be so hard to shift. I have read so many places about how ACT used to use bad TOB. My car has new bearings, new head, cylinder hone, new rear drive shafts, new PTU, new coils and so much other things i spent money on im going shit if its CW.

 

[darkiller_666]

Here are some videos i got today.
At first turning over without clutch pressed then with clutch pressed.
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Slave cylinder moving.
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Videos are uploading, should work soon.

 

[olmytsi]

Did you watch the belts while someone pressed the clutch in to see if they move towards the driverside?

 

[darkiller_666]

I did watch and couldn't see any visible movement in them. I wish the videos would upload already. One video is the car turning over with the horrid chirping and the other one of the slave cylinders movement. Im thinking the slave might need replaced, it only moved about 1/2 inch with full clutch engagement. I was told if i could push the Slave into the trans by hand then it wasnt adjusted properly. If i moved the adjust nut on the master more then a few turns, id be able to push the slave in by hand but had no pedal pressure.

 

[olmytsi]

I watched both. The first video sounds painful. Second one doesnt really do anything.

Here's what you need to do:

-make sure that it's not the crank moving

-once you establish that it's not the crank, then it's something binding in the bell housing and you will have to pull the tranny...FUN

 

[darkiller_666]

Like i said i couldn't see the crank making the pullies move at all. I cant get it to start to check for play in the crank like mentioned above.

 

[olmytsi]

Then start pulling the transmission!!!!!!!!!!

 

[djalogik]

yessirr; get some tools and start pulling the transmission; that is way better than chasing you walking crank.

 

[darkiller_666]

I guess mostly its just the sounds that is freaking me out.... I ordered a new TOB an act 2600 TOB for 10 bucks, gunna get a clutch fork also and replace the slave. I was trying to avoid spending so much but #### it.

 

[darkiller_666]

Is the slave supposed to move more then that?????

 

[tsunari]

So just watched the movies and here are my thoughts . . .

slave cylinder:

If that was the full range of motion for the slave cylinder, it looks as though something is definitely not adjusted correctly. The clutch fork should be sitting off towards the driver-side of the hole when the clutch is not pushed in.

TRE TECH TIPS
TRE TECH TIPS

If it is impossible to get into gear while the motor is running, it is because the clutch is not able to fully disengage. This could be caused by several things (I'll list a few):

- Clutch needs to be bled (air in the line)
- Tranny not completely mounted to the block (bolts are loose/missing)
- Clutch fork is broken
- Clutch fork pivot ball needs to be shimmed
- Clutch hub spring(s) have escaped their cage and are pinned against the flywheel/pressureplate

In short- that thing needs to be taken somewhere and the tranny needs to be dropped. If the noise is coming from the tranny-side, I doubt it would be crank walk. With any luck, it should be painfully obvious where the noise is coming from once you get the tranny out. Anyone who has pulled a DSM tranny should be able to get it out in a matter of hours.

I wouldn't suggest trying to start the engine again until this is figured out. Best of luck!

 

[darkiller_666]

Thank you for the links. Would i be able to pull and change the TOB and at least check for any other problems without a car lift? I have seen the clutch changed on these cars while on a lift a few times but never done it myself. I am trying to save money and the shop wants 500+ assuming its JUST the TOB and my flywheel doesn't need resurfaced. I dont have a lift or many tools. I do however have the motivation to crack into this myself if its possible. I have just swapped heads two times along with everything else possible, it seemed. Might as well start replacing more things i guess.

 

[olmytsi]

You can definitely do it with a jack and stands, I've done all my motor swaps that way.

However, 2g's suck! You have 3 motor mounts on the trans rather than one like the 1g's.

Here's what needs to be done to pull the trans:

- have 2 jacks, one for the trans/car and one to support the engine (or any other device you can make to support the engine)
- drain tranny fluid
- undo suspension to free axles
- remove 2 bolts on motor for driverside axle.
- remove axles, driverside slides out with bolts removed, passenger side needs to pried from trans (can be a biitch)
- remove transfer case and downpipe (makes it easier to get to transfer case bolts)
- remove crossmember and 2 other small pieces that bolt to the crossmember and car under the car, just behind the trans
- undo shifter cables and unbolt starter
- unplug speed and reverse sensors on the trans
- remove intake pipe to make room
- remove tranny bolts
- remove 3 motor mounts from trans


And then you just pry to get the trans loose from the engine and drop it (it's heavy).


Putting it back on is more of a biitch because you have to pick up the trans and wiggle it in and then get it in the engine at the right angle.


Plan one afternoon to pull it and another to put it back in although you can do it in one day if you want.


Before you pull the trans, order a new throw out bearing, clutch fork and pivot ball. I would also pick up a slave cylinder


I suggest help from someone who has done it if you haven't. i paid someone to do my first clutch and then learned afterward.

 

[2point3Tsi]

Since your doing it on the ground I hope its not in a gravel driveway, anyways you can do the job while only removing the passenger side axle only it just takes a little finessing. After your remove the 3 tranny mounts and unbolt everything else just use a prybar and walk around it evenly and it will come right off. Help will be required on install and plan for 12+ hrs in the driveway. good luck

 

[darkiller_666]

I think i am going to tackle this next week. Have a buddy who will let me use his garage. Now i just need to get some tools and a jack and some stands. Im gunna spend the time before hand, ordering parts and reading write ups on changing clutches and dropping transmissions. I would like to get this done right the first time and be done with it. This car has been an utter money hole and it has been on the road less then 1000 miles in 8 months. Its getting harder and harder to convince the powers that be that this car is worth keeping. "who cares if its AWD and turbo, you cant even drive to work" If the car doesnt last a LOONG time after this, expect to be seeing a part out