1G Transmission rebuild time???

[AWD-Tony]

I only said it because it's no big deal to remove the gear if you need the room. There is no why.

OIC

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Necessity is the mother of invention Tony.....good god that is quite a conglomeration but if it works, hey, I can't say a thing!!!

 

[AWD-Tony]

Necessity is the mother of invention Tony.....good god that is quite a conglomeration but if it works, hey, I can't say a thing!!!

haha it was ghetto but it worked great. Could’ve borrowed my buddies puller but he’s dealership tech so whenever I borrow his tools I like to give them back ASAP...like that night usually.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Does 3rd gear seem too loose? I didn’t want to get it too tight.

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[twicks69]

You cannot press the 3/4 hub and slider too far nor the 4th gear needle bearing. You press it fully and there is no binding.

Also, assemble the 3/4 hub and slider assembly before pressing onto the shaft. Note the 3/4 hub orientation for oil passages and direction of spray pattern if there is an oil hole on the shaft matching the height of the oiling passage on the hub,as well as that the hub identifier mark faces down (3rd gear) and the slider contour is correct direction and you assemble the slider with the keyways properly oriented.

With the 1st/2nd hub and slider, same thing. Hub orientation mark faces up (2nd gear).
Have your springs oriented in the right direction for each side , refer to manual illustration.

Why was there a ratchet strap around a bearing splitter?? That's like 3/4" threaded rod, it's not going to fail.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I had it strapped since I couldn’t bolt the splitter together to pull the bearing off the front diff. I was able to get the bearings off that way.

I put the intermediate shaft together and both gears have a little bit of play just like in the video of third gear. I’m pretty sure they’re pressed fully and all the gears spin freely. Just didn’t know if that little bit of play is something to worry about.

 

[twicks69]

It is supposed to be like that. If there is more than that, you will have problems. Didnt your 1st gear have a lot of play? Did you find galling to the thrust surface of the bearing bore and a grooved/worn 1/2 hub?

 

[AWD-Tony]

That’s good to hear. I didn’t see anything that would be of concern. I definitely would’ve asked . Needle bearing also looked great. First and second have the same amount of play as the last video of third. Lock ring fits perfect but I haven’t measured the end play yet.

First gear feels better than it did before

 

[AWD-Tony]

@twicks69 I took it apart again and took photos in case I missed something. Can you take a look and see if you see anything abnormal? They used 2 springs on each side for the keepers. Idk if that’s an issue.

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[twicks69]

If they used the shallow 1st synchro then there should be no issue with double springs on the hub and slider keys per side. If it is the tall 1st synchro it would only use 1 spring on the 1st gear side to clear the synchro. I don't see anything really out of the ordinary from those pictures. Just make sure both sides of the hub are not galled or groove on the thrust face against the gears.

As for the snaprings, typically the 1.5mm snaprings for both the input shaft and intermediate shaft are the ones I normally use.

 

[AWD-Tony]

If they used the shallow 1st synchro then there should be no issue with double springs on the hub and slider keys per side. If it is the tall 1st synchro it would only use 1 spring on the 1st gear side to clear the synchro. I don't see anything really out of the ordinary from those pictures. Just make sure both sides of the hub are not galled or groove on the thrust face against the gears.

As for the snaprings, typically the 1.5mm snaprings for both the input shaft and intermediate shaft are the ones I normally use.

Ok thanks!! Hub looks and feels good on both sides. First gear synchro is 9mm or .36”. Is that the tall or short?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Think I have the shorter one. With both clips installed, there’s plenty of room between clips and synchro.

 

[twicks69]

Shallow is like 8.24mm, tall is like 10.50mm

 

[AWD-Tony]

I used cheap calipers before and got 9.1mm. This is closer to the shorter one.

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[twicks69]

You should be fine

 

[AWD-Tony]

This is the shim for the output shaft. Possible they used the wrong shim or another point of failure???

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[twicks69]

No, that is simply how nearly every output pinion shim looks like out of a factory transmission because they typically had it a little loose on install. You will also notice the front diff shim will have debris galling on the shim from the end play and just from the diff spinning the debris in the oil that way, it isnt the shims fault, just normal. It is simply time to replace the shim if it is out of spec, so you will need to do solder method to see if the worn shim still is within spec or requires replacement of bearings of different shims for proper assembly.

Use 0.062" solder to check the input shaft and intermediate shaft and front diff. Use 3/32" solder for the center diff and output pinion shaft. I use a mixture of petroleum jelly and 85w140 or 75W140NS as assembly lube and I coat the bores thoroughly then place the two curved solder pieces about 3/4"-1" long evenly across from each other and then install the bearing race (lubed OD) and then do my solder crush testing to see what the zero values are and if they are within spec range of available shims or if it requires replacement and redo measurement.

I prefer to use 6207RS C3 sealed roller bearings for the front diff to reduce the debris damage to them that is typical with an open roller bearing. All the other bearings are OEM.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Thanks for the explanation. I got the first set of measurements except for the front diff. It’s was dead center so I couldn’t get the micrometer in there for accurate number. I did curve the solder so it stays in there and it also helps with getting two measurements per solder. I noticed there’s a couple of different measurements for each race. I’ll have to look back at the manual for this.

Do you have the input seal in stock? The one that installs from the inside.

Edit: The manual doesn't mention anything about the different solder measurements. Guess I'll see what the next set of measurements read. Not huge differences, about .03 mm on average.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I don’t have #15 snap ring and #16 cone spring. Is this normal? My input shaft looks more like the W5M31 without #6 spacer.

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[pauleyman]

Look at your third gear a little closer.

 

[twicks69]

You are getting it a little wrong, 15/16/17 is the 3rd gear subgear with conical washer and snapring to have it properly installed on 3rd gear.

As for solder testing, you will see it takes practice and patience, along with using the right types of solder, getting the curvature correct, and having the solder placed so it is on a smooth portion of the bearing race and evenly spaced in the case so it is evenly loaded. Having everything well lubed does help. I also let my assembled case sit in room temp for a duration of time with the case bolts torqued 29 ft/lbs.

Typically I see variation of solder thickness around 0.000-0.0020" between the pieces which is a +/- 0.001" variation. I take the average of the two pieces and use that as my zero value to then select a shim, then test fit and spin it to see how it feels.

 

[GST with PSI]

Bookmarked this shit.

@twicks69 FTW with all this knowledge.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I owe him beer, lunch, my first born and a puppy for the help. Coffee for the rest of you guys.

 

[twicks69]

I'm good with a lunch and beer., I already have kids and don't need more , I'll take a kitten please!

You guys know me, I'm just here for the help...I mean to help......something like that.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I’ve done the solder test 5 times letting it sit for 12 hours minimum. First time was in the cold garage and the rest have been inside on my kitchen floor. I can’t seem to get a good consistent measurement. Below is the difference I’m getting between all the measurements

Input .109
Intermediate .044
Center diff .031
Output .110
Front diff .072

Could it be possible that the case where the bearings ride are too far gone?