Transmission issue

[Josho1]

Hey guys. I just picked up a 96 Talon TSi, FWD. 120k miles. Runs great but has a transmission component issue. While running, the car will not go into gear. Slave and Master cylinder have been "replaced". The master looks new, but the slave cylinder is a little rusty lookin, BUT the bleeder valve looks new. PO said he has bled the system multiple times and will work very briefly, but eventually goes back to the same thing. I have not seen the car move, so this is just hear say at this point. The fluid is topped off and looks clean. The only thing I have done is try to adjust the rod from the pedal to the cylinder. It is twisted all the way out and I am still able to push the slave cylinder in by hand, HOWEVER! the slave cylinder does not decompress, it stays pushed in and I lose the pedal pressure until I pump it one or two times by hand. Otherwise, I can pump the clutch pedal all day, by foot, and it continues to come back.

Any thoughts?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Owner may have rebuilt the slave cylinder with a kit or something if it's already rusty. Sounds like there may be air in the system and it wasn't bled correctly. Check for leakage within the slave cylinder boot as well. I would re-bleed everything yourself.

 

[Josho1]

That's exactly what Im doing now. Thanks

 

[Josho1]

So I pulled the MC off, bench bled and reinstalled it. I'm working solo right now so I used a vacuum pump bleeder for the SC/fluid lines. I noticed that the pump was holding pressure but when the valve on the slave cylinder was open, it would not pull fluid through the pump. But it was leaking from around the bleeder valve when it was loose. So its getting fluid but it wont exit through the bleeder valve for whatever reason. I'm wondering if they did rebuild the slave cylinder and just didn't do a good job.
But I'm confused as to why the pedal will hold pressure if I pump it, but if I move the clutch fork with my hand, the slave cylinder will not push back..

 

[Vegas Smith]

Fluid should definitely exit through the bleeder valve. I'm unsure of how those pumps work so I can't help you there. It sounds like you are building pressure in the system when you pump the pedal but when you push the rod by hand there isn't enough pressure to push back as if there is still air in the system.

 

[boostdawd]

Sounds like a faulty slave cylinder. The pedal should come back up if the system is leak/air free. Another thing u can check is your shifter cables and make sure they are adjusted.

 

[Josho1]

I bled it again this evening, the traditional 2 person way. It shoots out of the bleeder valve if someone is on the pedal. I'm going to replace the slave cylinder tomorrow.

 

[Josho1]

I replaced the slave cylinder. The one on the car did not look new at all. I ran out of fluid while bleeding it, so I'll wrap that up tomorrow.

Question: While I had the slave cylinder off I was moving the clutch fork back and forth. Is it suppose to move with zero resistance? I was able to move it back and forth with no problem, it even wobbled a little.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I replaced the slave cylinder. The one on the car did not look new at all. I ran out of fluid while bleeding it, so I'll wrap that up tomorrow.

Question: While I had the slave cylinder off I was moving the clutch fork back and forth. Is it suppose to move with zero resistance? I was able to move it back and forth with no problem, it even wobbled a little.

Yeah, mine is the same

 

[Josho1]

I installed the new slave cylinder, bled the system and adjusted the rod in the pedal. Still having the same issue.. Seems to me that this is a clutch related issue. Does any input before I pull the trans?

 

[dexterholland04]

If it's not an OEM Mitsu master or slave, then replace them. In my experience, I've had nothing but issues with parts store clutch hydraulics. If you're still having clutch pedal issues, then I would stick with diagnosing the clutch hydraulics.

Adjust you clutch properly: http://www.teamrip.com/clutch_pedal_adjustment_info.html

Also, ditch the stock line if you haven't already...and get rid of the accumulator too (so, get a full-length braided line).

 

[Mello]

Sounds like a bad master to me. I had the same issue just this past summer. New master was bad out of the box.

 

[twicks69]

Well there's a piston seal bleeding pressure, either the master cylinder inner piston seal (there's two on the master piston; 1 on the slave piston), or you have a fluid leakage issue. I have seen many brand new clutch hydraulic components that were crap out of the box. I stick with brand new OEM Mitsubishi units only. The parts stores ones are notorious for issues.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

If you press the clutch pedal does the slave move? If its moving the fork then the problem is the clutch. You shouldnt be able to push the clutch fork in.

 

[Josho1]

I drove the car around my neighborhood this evening. I was able to start it in gear. I did not change gears while driving (was only going 10-15mph). But I was able to push the clutch in and the rpms would drop as if it were in neutral. I'm going to get rid of the accumulater and see if it makes a difference. But at least I know that the transmission is good.

 

[Josho1]

Do these accumulators go bad?

 

[Josho1]

I replaced the accumulater with a steel braided line, re-bled the system and the issue is still present. So what is this going to be?

 

[gsxeclipse102]

when you press the clutch in does the slave cylinder rod move? If you answer yes then all the hydraulics (master to slave) are fine. Time to drop the transmission. The fact you cant shift into gear with engine running sounds like a blown clutch.

 

[Josho1]

It does move. You mentioned in a previous message that you shouldnt be able to move the clutch fork in, so I disregarded your message. You should be able to move your fork in, that's how you adjust the clutch pedal.
Are you pretty certain that I'll need to pull the trans to find the issue?

 

[gsxeclipse102]

When i said you shouldnt be able to move your clutch fork (by hand) i was right. Im speaking of moving it towards the engine (normal direction of movement). If you can move it from its resting position your clutch/pressure plate is toast

 

[Josho1]

When i said you shouldnt be able to move your clutch fork (by hand) i was right. Im speaking of moving it towards the engine (normal direction of movement). If you can move it from its resting position your clutch/pressure plate is toast

I guess I'm confused then. Because when adjusting your clutch, you adjust the rod until you can't move the fork by hand, and the you back the rod out slowly until you're able to push it in by hand.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

This is the correct procedure

 

[Josho1]

Anything wrong with this? Lol.

 

[boostdawd]

Anything wrong with this? Lol.

Looks fine to me
I had the springs fall off on me once

 

[91talonts1]

Is that an ACT disc? Their sprung discs have a reputation for cracking like that.