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transmission issue

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so slow 420

Proven Member
110
0
Feb 18, 2015
Detroit, Michigan
Car shifted fine and today it pop out 5th gear 3 times other gears are fine and the srs light is on as well now let me no fwd non turbo manual transmission
 
It's not that easy with a 420a t350 trans, but you should definitely be draining the gear oil and seeing its condition. Could be shaft bearings, could be worn components, etc.
 
Yes the shifter base moves back n forth when I tap on accelerator n let off and what u mean by pop it and what retaining nut r u talking bout transmission only has 120,000 miles
 
There is a big retaining nut that holds the 5th gear assembky on the input shaft. If it gets loose the gear can move and you get the above symptoms. If it comes off it blows a hole through your trans case.
You can remove the end case of the transmission and inspect this. If the input is loose tighten it and stake it down.
 
Do I have to pull out transmission to fix it or can I do it well its still in car and do I take the case apart or inspection cover off
 
Could someone tell me if 5th gear had a retaining nut or something that tightens the gear 95 eagle talon fwd nt
 
Most 5speed fwd transmissions are very similiar. Usually at the end of the transmission there is a cap which is bolted on. It just so happens that under that cap is your 5th gear, which has a large retaining nut keeping the assembly together. On occasion that nut can work it's way loose over the years and it needs to be retourqed and re-notched so it does not become loose again. If you look up any guides on how to do this on any fwd car you'll get a gist of what you have to do.
 
So I take the back cover off all I see is snap rings and 2 cone looking things do I take cone out and how do I do so thanks
 
There is no retaining nut on a NVT-350 (F5MC1 / A578) transmission. The input shaft and counter shaft are retained by snaprings into the transmission end-case (under the steel end cover are the retaining snaprings for the two shafts). Still, the proper way to disassemble it is to remove the bellhousing, then you have to remove the diff, then use a press fixture to seperate the two shafts from the case section after moving around the shift selector assembly so it will allow you to press out the gear clusters and the shift forks/rails in one motion.

If you want a service manual for it, here it is - http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/Manuals/FWD Manual Transmission F5MC1 PWEE8902-ABCD W-E 22D.pdf

You could also be dealing with worn out shift fork pads on the 5th shift fork, or a broken retaining snapring for the 5th hub and slider.
 
I no I always had a habit of shifting the gear while driving and we'll the car is off moving shifter side to side going in gears and so on
 
To much work for me. What year dodge neon manual transmissions will fit 95 eclipse fwd non turbo. Cause someone I no had a neon transmission in his 96 eagle talon eSi. And will their be shavings in oil from shift fork
 
You might have shavings, but the shift fork pads are plastic.

As for transmissions, do a search for applicable models. You will likely have to change the shift levers on the transmission. You will also need to use a hydraulic clutch style T350, which if I recall is the 2nd gen neons.

It came in the following 420a models - PT Cruiser, Cirrus, Sebring, 2nd gen Neon, Stratus, Avenger, Eclipse RS/GS and Plymouth Breeze, you will need to find one that fits this vehicle, as well as have the correct matched shift levers, and year for hydraulic clutch (for use with your hydraulic slave cylinder; the early models had a cable clutch).
 
How about you use what it is actually supposed to take?? The F5MC1 / T350 / A578 transmission uses ATF+4. Your paper synchros are likely destroyed now from using the wrong gear oil. If you change the synchros to full brass friction synchros (most decent aftermarket rebuild kits have them), then you can utilize either Mobil 1 10w30 Extended Mileage (semi-synthetic motor oil), or you can try a synthetic 75w90 if you are making alot more power out of the car (i.e. 400+HP AFTER CHANGING TO FULL BRASS SYNCHROS).

These are the recommended fluids -
Mopar T350 Manual Transmission Lubricant - 04874465 or Mopar ATF+4 (for NV-T350 transmission)
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w-30 motor oil
Mitsubishi Diamond SP-III ATF or 68218057AA
OR ATF+4 (i.e. Castrol Transmax +4 ATF)

Personally, your best cost is either Mobil 1 10W-30 Extended Performance motor oil, or Castrol Transmax +4 ATF.
 
Yep I got some Mopar atf+4 and I have another transmission as a spare don't no if it if good I drained gear oil out of it no shavings and pop ed the bell housing off no chips in any gears from what I can see so I may try using it and I'm going to but a new input shaft bearing and output shaft bearing in it as well as the atf+4 on the spare.
 
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