The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Rix Racing

Transmission help

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

There are no gaskets. There are axle seals, input seal (same as AWD I reckon), speedo drive O-ring, drain washer, fill washer, and reverse washer. I'm sure there is a seal on the shifter assembly but that doesn't really come apart.

You should use something like Ultra Grey, or 3 bond, or mitsubond for the transmission cases.
 
Ok, thanks. I've noticed trans fluid on top of the transmission and I can't quite tell exactly were its coming from. So I figured I'd replace whatever I could gasket or seal wise. Any suggestions on what is on the top of the trans that could be leaking or is prone to leaking maybe. If I don't have to replace all the seals it would be helpful as the bottom and back of the trans is dry. Thanks again
 
Is likely that your transmission is mostly leaking from the bottom instead of the top. Make sure that is really transmission fluid and not engine oil from a catch can or something like that.

I also agree use the best silicone available. Another Example: Honda bond works extremely good.
 
I've seen the CAS o-ring leak and oil down the trans. I'd suggest you get some engine degreaser and clean it up good, and see if you can find the source.

I forgot there is a sealing washer on the reverse idler bolt on the top rear of the transmission case.


It is definitely trans fluid. I'll spray some degreaser on it when I get home tomorrow and take it for another spin and see what's up. Ive only tried soaking it up with a rag. Hopefully it's the sealing washer like you say, I just don't see any other reason why I'd have trans fluid puddled on top of the tranny. Thanks for the info.
 
There is also the breather. Can't remember where it's at on a fwd, but maybe the trans got overfilled and puked some out.

I'd check the level, and wash it up good. See if it gets oily again right away. Is it leaving spots in the driveway?
 
There is also the breather. Can't remember where it's at on a fwd, but maybe the trans got overfilled and puked some out.

I'd check the level, and wash it up good. See if it gets oily again right away. Is it leaving spots in the driveway?


It has been leaving spots in the garage, it's like it builds up on top and runs down the front. I've had the car for about a month and a half now, and when I bought it the guy said he just changed the fluid in it to either gm or b&m syncro shift ( I can't remember which he said). So maybe he did overfill it. It would make sense considering some of the other shortcuts I've found on the car. He probably filled it from somewhere on the top instead of the actual fill hole. I'll check the fluid level as soon as I get home. All I've been doing is taking it for short drives until I get everything sorted out. I fix one thing and test it out, then find another small issue, just keeps going but the car runs very strong, someone just took a few shortcuts and now I'm paying for them. I think the trans issue and slight idle issue are hopefully the last to sort out, for now anyways
 
There's nothing wrong with filling it from the top. That's how 95% of us fill it. Take out the idler bolt, the fill level bolt on the side, front of trans and start adding the oil. I use red line Mt 90. My trans took exactly 2.5 quarts. If the aluminum or copper crush/sealing washer was lost, you will seep oil. If it's synchomesh, that's pretty thin oil, and will definitely show up
 
Filler plug loosen tip: If you have a stock plug, use only a 17mm 6pt socket - not a wrench (and not a 12pt socket if possible). The plug's 6 pt sides are slightly tapered (and VERY soft metal) such that a wrench will want to slide off and mangle (and round) the sides (so a future time you'll have to destroy it to get off - personal experience). I had to even hold the socket ONTO the plug with a 2x4 board pressing against the racket (with a lot of force) while turning to keep it from slipping off. And don't overtighten when reinstalling. After a few times of mangling and replacing plugs I finally just got a normal hardware bolt that's not tapered with a washer and it's been great ever since. Bolt is 16x1.5x16mm long.

Stock plug (notice very slight taper and mangle on sides - this is a new Mitsu oem plug removed only once): http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/transaxle-2gt-filler-plug-location-jpg.111162/
 
There's nothing wrong with filling it from the top. That's how 95% of us fill it. Take out the idler bolt, the fill level bolt on the side, front of trans and start adding the oil. I use red line Mt 90. My trans took exactly 2.5 quarts. If the aluminum or copper crush/sealing washer was lost, you will seep oil. If it's synchomesh, that's pretty thin oil, and will definitely show up

I didn't really mean that filling it from the top was a shortcut ( I apologize if that was offensive to anyone) I just don't think he knew how much to put in or maybe he thought it should be to the top, judging by the way the rest of the car is done. When I get home tonight I'm going to check these suggestions out, so thank you very much.
 
Filler plug loosen tip: If you have a stock plug, use only a 17mm 6pt socket - not a wrench (and not a 12pt socket if possible). The plug's 6 pt sides are slightly tapered (and VERY soft metal) such that a wrench will want to slide off and mangle (and round) the sides (so a future time you'll have to destroy it to get off - personal experience). I had to even hold the socket ONTO the plug with a 2x4 board pressing against the racket (with a lot of force) while turning to keep it from slipping off. And don't overtighten when reinstalling. After a few times of mangling and replacing plugs I finally just got a normal hardware bolt that's not tapered with a washer and it's been great ever since. Bolt is 16x1.5x16mm long.

Stock plug (notice very slight taper and mangle on sides - this is a new Mitsu oem plug removed only once): http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/transaxle-2gt-filler-plug-location-jpg.111162/


Thanks for letting me know as I tend to use 12 pt most of the time. I'd hate to destroy it right off the bat.
 
If I were you I would probably replace the transmission oil if it is one of thr synchoshift types. That stuff is too thin and doesn't have the fild strength needed for our transmissions especially if your car makes more power than stock.
TRE as a pretty good oil reccomendation section.
 
Just start REALLY slow and if you feel it start to slip then stop and make sure its not rounding the head.

If I were you I would probably replace the transmission oil if it is one of thr synchoshift types. That stuff is too thin and doesn't have the fild strength needed for our transmissions especially if your car makes more power than stock.
TRE as a pretty good oil reccomendation section.

I will make sure I don't round it off.
Also I'll order the proper fluid and change it asap. The car has 198k miles on the body. The 6bolt motor was built and installed less than 5k miles ago. I don't know if it's the original trans or not, but it shifts like butter, no grinding at all and no whining noises either. I'll check out TRE to get the proper stuff. Thanks all.
 
I will make sure I don't round it off.
Also I'll order the proper fluid and change it asap. The car has 198k miles on the body. The 6bolt motor was built and installed less than 5k miles ago. I don't know if it's the original trans or not, but it shifts like butter, no grinding at all and no whining noises either. I'll check out TRE to get the proper stuff. Thanks all.
Redline mt90..... You'll never go back my friend
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top