TPS the cause of my problems?

[Boostdclips99]

Im having issues with my tps at the worst possible times. I have DSMlink but for some reason it will not connect. I resorted to using a voltmeter to set the tps ohms to .63 on pin 4 and 2. I have it set but when I take it for a drive the injectors are not closing, causing it to stay rich when letting off the throttle in gear. Usually the wideband reads completely lean but instead it is reading 10-13. Checking the ohms on pin 4 and 3 it reads .03 so there is still continuity. Do I need to adjust for 0 continuity or .63 ohms? I have to travel home tomorrow so I need the help ASAP. Thanks

 

[tenn-gsx]

Id say check your coast fc adjustment and idle switch as soon as you can connect to your laptop.

 

[ktmrider]

According to my manual the resistance between 2 and 4 should be from 3.5k to 6.5k ohms depending on where the throttle is ( 3.5k closed, slowly move up to 6.5k at WOT ).
The test between 3 and 4 shows continuity when throttle is shut, open circuit when throttle is off the stop.
Last, there is a note in the diagnostic section that states a bad TPS will cause a rich running condition as the ECU does not reliably know the true throttle angle.
Hope this helps and you can source another TPS this late!

 

[Boostdclips99]

According to my manual the resistance between 2 and 4 should be from 3.5k to 6.5k ohms depending on where the throttle is ( 3.5k closed, slowly move up to 6.5k at WOT ).
The test between 3 and 4 shows continuity when throttle is shut, open circuit when throttle is off the stop.
Last, there is a note in the diagnostic section that states a bad TPS will cause a rich running condition as the ECU does not reliably know the true throttle angle.
Hope this helps and you can source another TPS this late!

I was going by the dsmlink wiki saying it should read .63 ohms closed. Right now the continuity is set for closed and the 2 and 4 shows .90 which isn't right. The only tps I have is a 1g . I don't have a laptop that works at my access

 

[romeen]

Have you tried using the ohmeter between pins 3 and 4 to adjust it as shown on the RRE website? It's about 2/3 down the page:

RREs# Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap

BTW, I realize these instructions are in the context of 1G to 2G TB swap but the adjustment principle is the same no matter what with a 2G TPS.

You are supposed to use a .45mm feeler guage between the throttle stop and throttle lever but I like to use a slightly thinner one (.38mm) as it gives the impression of crisper throttle response. Remember, set the ohmeter to it's lowest value range (usually 200 ohms) and adjust the TPS so that it shows non-continuity/infinite resistance when the feeler guage is in there and then goes to continuity when the guage is removed.

Let me know if this helps. Good luck.

 

[ktmrider]

I was going by the dsmlink wiki saying it should read .63 ohms closed. Right now the continuity is set for closed and the 2 and 4 shows .90 which isn't right. The only tps I have is a 1g . I don't have a laptop that works at my access

I think the Wiki is referencing voltage, not ohms/resistance. My 1g specs 0.48v to 0.53v when the TPS is closed and the key is on ( from pins 2 and 4 ).
BTW this is the way you adjust the TPS if/when replacing to make sure you are in the proper location.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Have you tried using the ohmeter between pins 3 and 4 to adjust it as shown on the RRE website? It's about 2/3 down the page:

RREs# Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap

BTW, I realize these instructions are in the context of 1G to 2G TB swap but the adjustment principle is the same no matter what with a 2G TPS.

You are supposed to use a .45mm feeler guage between the throttle stop and throttle lever but I like to use a slightly thinner one (.38mm) as it gives the impression of crisper throttle response. Remember, set the ohmeter to it's lowest value range (usually 200 ohms) and adjust the TPS so that it shows non-continuity/infinite resistance when the feeler guage is in there and then goes to continuity when the guage is removed.

Let me know if this helps. Good luck.

sorry to bring this back up, im going to put a 1g tb soon, the install of it is straight forward, but im not too sure about adjusting the TPS.

i'm not too familiar with the throttle body layout.. i have the multimeter, and i have the feeler gauges (for spark plug gapping)

i know which pins to check, but after that I'm loss.

what does the throttle stop and throttle lever look and where do i put the feeler there

and when you mention check for continuity, what reading should my multimeter read

and once it is reading that, I tighten the tps down?

 

[jshuman]

I see in your profile that you have dsmlink. I would just swap the throttle bodies and use the tps adjustment feature in dsmlink. You will adjust to see a raw throttle position of 32 when its closed and 255 when fully open. You can also look at tps volts in dsmlink and adjust to get a closed value of .63volts and fully open value of 5 volts.

You can read this from dsmlink wiki to get a better explanation of how to adjust the tps.
dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki]

I hope that helps,
Justin

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

justin thanks for the help.

the 1g tb is in.

the problem i have now is that WOT was only showing 84%. i really did not want to have to settle with offset, esp for that low amount. If i really press it to the floor with all my might i can squeeze a few more percent.

So what I did next was shave the rubber stopper a bit, and tightened the throttle cable. just to make sure before i turned on the car, i saw that tps was at 0, in the car i floored the pedal and i could get 96, although i still had to put a bit extra pressure on the pedal (but not compared to the first time when at 84)

so i start the car, and now the idle is high, of course i read because of the heat, this effects the cable.

now i have a dilemma. i can loosen the cable so it reads at 0, even when car on and hot, but now cannot get above 90. it willl be at 89 (thanks to shaving the stopper), i can get it to 90 if i really force the pedal.

i really hate to settle with quick "bandages" to solve the problem.

then i read this..

To Verify that WOT is 100%
With the car turned off, have someone sit in the car and floor the gas pedal, and then check to see if you can rotate the throttle plate any more by hand. If you can, it could be due to the cable being out of adjustment (adjust on the back of the intake manifold, 2 bolts) or something like a floor mat keeping the pedal from going all the way down. Fix this.

so i had someone press the pedal while i was in the engine bay, and yes there was still some amount i can rotate it by hand for it to fully be wot. looks like about the 10% i need for the tps to show 100.

so now i dont know what to do, if i tighten it, ill get idle surge, loosen it just enough, i cant get close to 100.