Timing Questions

[Gstclipse69]

Alright I made some pulls and I was looking at my timing. I know the timing should cap at around 16. Mine caps at 15 so I think thats alright. When I get full spoolup timing starts at 9 then at around 5500 Ill hit 11, then at 6-6.5k it'll up to 15. My question is should the graph be more gradual or is this ok? It kind of just steps up to 15 in the upper rpms. Boost is only at ~16 psi now. Just wanted to make sure before I turn it up.

On another note, I've read several posts regarding what the o2s should be at at wot. Some say .92 others say .96. Some say they are different for 1gs and 2gs. Right now i'm at about .94 across. I've got a wideband but its kind of hard to look at a wideband, boost and drive all at wot. I can catch glances and its bouncing around 11 to 11.5 so I know I'm ok but just wondering what I should tune for. My mods are in my profile. Thanks

 

[spyderturbo007]

That timing sounds fine to me. Keep in mind, that your timing caps at 16 degrees when the ECU sees over 2.1g/rev of airflow. So your loss of 1 degree could be knock, but it's very possible it's caused by your coolant temp exceeding 206 degrees, or the IAT exceeding 84 degrees.

Is it possible for you to post a log showing timing, airflow, rpm and front O2.

As for using O2 voltage to tune with, I wouldn't waste your time. I only use it as a guideline to form generalized opinions, but never to base my tune off of. Stick with tuning by timing and you'll be fine.

Why don't you just wire the WBO2 sensor into the ECU, then you can log the lambda value and convert to AFR. Most guys shoot for an AFR of about 11:1.

 

[JayRolla]

Yea dont even look at the front o2, just worry about the wbo2. I like to tune between high tens and low elevens for afr.

 

[Gstclipse69]

Why don't you just wire the WBO2 sensor into the ECU, then you can log the lambda value and convert to AFR. Most guys shoot for an AFR of about 11:1.

^^I havent heard of doing that. How would I go about wiring it into the ecu? And what would be the advantages of being able to log the lambda value?

Ok, so tuning with timing is the way to go huh? Alright so if I'm looking at the timing, to "see" knock I would see dips in the curve correct? And if not them I get a go ahead to turn up the boost right?

Yea the timing stopping at 15 is probably the IAT being over 84. I knew it was something around there but I wasnt quite sure. On that pull the IAT was ~100. The coolant temp is under control though. Overheating is one thing I dont have an issue with.

Ill see what I can do about posting a log. Thanks!

 

[JayRolla]

Why don't you just wire the WBO2 sensor into the ECU, then you can log the lambda value and convert to AFR. Most guys shoot for an AFR of about 11:1.

^^I havent heard of doing that. How would I go about wiring it into the ecu? And what would be the advantages of being able to log the lambda value?

Ok, so tuning with timing is the way to go huh? Alright so if I'm looking at the timing, to "see" knock I would see dips in the curve correct? And if not them I get a go ahead to turn up the boost right?

Yea the timing stopping at 15 is probably the IAT being over 84. I knew it was something around there but I wasnt quite sure. On that pull the IAT was ~100. The coolant temp is under control though. Overheating is one thing I dont have an issue with.

Ill see what I can do about posting a log. Thanks!

Ive never wired one in to the ecu but it cant be hard, just do some researching. If you wire it in you can log it on your logger so you dont have to look at the wbo2 while driving.

Tuning with boost is the best way to go. Less timing and more boost will make more hp than more timing and less boost. 15* is a good spot for the timing, so I would leave that there. Add boost untill you have knock and then pull it back while keeping your afr inline.